Weird results first time reloading for my .270win

[deerkiller]

I have to agree here. There is A LOT of items to cover here.

One thing I would add in here is I’ve found that you can’t fire different material of jacket over the fouling of another material of jacket in bullets. You will see wildly different accuracy issues. And to be able to clean that you’ll need a full cleaning rod on a bearing with a jag set with multiple cleaners. Snake systems for cleaning are for quick options, not thorough cleaning.

Also, I’ve used multiple Tubb polishing kits on Ruger barrels and that has helped a lot.


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Nosler etips are wonderful game killing bullets and often a bitch to get to shoot - the disclaimer of dropping loads 10% to start is confusing an already complicated issue with them, they are long and I've found that some are comparatively longer than others but that increased bearing surface is what Nosler is cautious about
130 etip is a very good combo though - You can try this as I've used it in more than 30 rifles of all makes, models and chamberings with absolutely NO negative effects and mostly all positive - After you think you have your bore clean AND DRY get a bottle of TETRA "OIL" (not bore cleaner) and scrub into the bore with a clean new HIGH QUALITY bronze brush using 20+ easy full length strokes (be slow and meticulous always when brushing the bore, fast strokes don't change a things and up the chances of damage to you bore or crown from the associated METAL components - then dry patch the bore and chamber so all are dry then shoot it, you just might find that the accuracy will improve but I've never heard of it getting worse in years and years of use

 

[Sawfish]

Sorry, I am coming late to the party. I have a T/C Encore pistol in 25/06. I picked up some 100 gr E-Tips few years ago in preparation of the CA no-lead mandate. Nosler at that lumped loads for E-Tips in with the data for its regular bullets. So I loaded a few with a reduced load of the recipe that I used with 100 gr Ballistic Tips. On my testing trip to the range, I blew a primer on the first shot. Nosler had provided no other information with this bullet. Somewhat later I found a notation in some of Nosler's online data that recommended at least a .50 clearance for this bullet. There is no longer a clearance warning for this bullet, but Nosler recommends using its starting loads for the E-Tip "due to internal construction differences". [(Side Note from CA DFG Website "Hunters are encourages to assist in (no lead) compliance by retaining and carrying in the field boxes or other packaging,") So add a box of bullets to your pack,] Back to the bullet. My problem was that my 25/06 has a very short throat, so it would not accommodate the portly profile of the E-Tip. Your rifle may not accommodate the recommended lengths for this bullet. Finally hit on a good load for the 25/06. The E-Tip bullets are very accurate, and I expect to inflict some misery on an unsuspecting Blacktail this year.

 

[dla]

First, leave off the sky screens on cloudy days. And bring a 22lr or BB gun to sanity check the Chrono setup.

Second, try a different powder. H4350, SuperPerformance, etc.

Last, look up "ladder test". I think you should probably work in half grain increments.

 

[bsanders8181]

Here’s is my opinion not that it matters
Some factory rifles just aren’t gonna be the 3/4MOA rifles. 1 MOA accuracy is plenty for normal ranges.
If you are after 1/2MOA consistently then I’d rebarrel the rifle.
If you want to stick with the Ruger then I’d bed it and get the trigger adjusted or replaced. It could still be a gamble as factory barrels are hit or miss.
Another aspect is try another powder with those lead free bullets.

I bedded it a couple of weeks ago but with working out of town and vacation last week it took me until today to get back out.
Today I shot the cutting edges MTH and Hornady GMX both in 130 gr

I got 1” at 57gr with the MTH and 1.25” with the GMX also at 57gr

I’m gonna to load the hammers, cutting edges and Hornady’s in .25gr increments around their best groups and get back out.
With the heat this’ll probably be 2 trips so I might load the Noslers up and re-try now that I can determine a correct seating depth and the gun is bedded.

I have not been able to recreate the 3/4” group with the factory Barnes loads, so I’m guessing it was a fluke.

I’ll be happy to be consistently under an inch with no flyers.


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[Ganderlander2]

Etips can be a bear to get figured out, but once you do they are a wonderful bullet. I was having trouble getting them to shoot out of my M77in 270, till I cleaned out all the copper in the barrel. I settled on 57 grains of h4831sc , 50 thousands off the lands

 

[TurboSportTSi]

Etips can be a bear to get figured out, but once you do they are a wonderful bullet. I was having trouble getting them to shoot out of my M77in 270, till I cleaned out all the copper in the barrel. I settled on 57 grains of h4831sc , 50 thousands off the lands

Yep, not being able to recreate the results seen with factory ammo makes me think copper fouling or loose screw somewhere.

I wouldn't bother wasting time and components until that is figured out, but if the original 3/4-1" group was a one off, then maybe it was a fluke after all.

OP, have you ever been able to consistently shoot consistent sub-MOA groups with any rifle or load? No offense intended - sincere question as I don't think was ever established.

 

[Mike 338]

1. Pick a bullet.
2. Pick a powder.
3. Pick a primer.
4. Find your maximum charge weight. I'd start with the bullet .020" off the lands. The book says 10% below listed max and that's the right advice but I usually start at about 5% below and load up a single shot of each in .3 grain increments. You'll have about 15 bullets or so. I go a bit above listed max. You can always not shoot them if your seeing signs of pressure. Anyway, figure out what your max charge is. When you see a pressure sign, STOP. That's not your max load. You max load is something below that (My max powder charge is usually a full grain or so below where I saw pressure). Also, with a chronograph if you have one, record the speed of each shot and note any shots that are close in speed to each other as this may well be a good node. Note: If you don't see any signs of pressure just keep an eye on your chronograph. Your manual will tell you about where your max speed should be and don't go over that by crazy amounts.
5. Now that you have a max charge, pick an arbitrary load about 2% below max. Time to do a rough seating depth test. Load 5 shot strings of different seating depths in .030" increments. .010", .040", .070, .100, .130". Take those to the range and shoot at 100 yards for accuracy. No need to chronograph. One group will be noticeably better than the rest. That's your seating depth. You can tweak it a little one way or the other later on if you want but you probably won't need to. Note: I have a gun that shoots best with .225" jump.
6. Now do a load workup in .3 grain increments. Chronograph these if you like but not necessary. You've probably found a nice load by now.
7. Tweak seating depth and/or powder charge a tiny bit either way but you may well have found the load your going to use by now.
8. Chronograph final load for ballistics and confirm accuracy at various ranges.

 

[bsanders8181]

Yep, not being able to recreate the results seen with factory ammo makes me think copper fouling or loose screw somewhere.

I wouldn't bother wasting time and components until that is figured out, but if the original 3/4-1" group was a one off, then maybe it was a fluke after all.

OP, have you ever been able to consistently shoot consistent sub-MOA groups with any rifle or load? No offense intended - sincere question as I don't think was ever established.

When I started shooting the Barnes in 2015 I shot 3-shot groups with the Barnes at 3/4", 1.25" and 1" over the three different sessions. But it's been a while, and it is very likely that I do not shoot enough, as I've only fired about 40rounds through it from then until the beginning of this year. I do shoot my 22 hornet and AR quite a bit more but that is mostly at ground squirrels. when I have shot the hornet at paper it is consistently around 1", and if I throw several mags at one spot it stays under an inch and a half.

In all reality, it is likely due to me, but I still want to try and rule out all the variables I can.

Now I just need to find another place to shoot, as the BLM just closed the range near me for fire season.