Weight sorting brass

Another thing to remember; this is the internet. All these cutout targets are probably of guys best groups. Best cherry picked groups with cherry picked ES SD numbers are not showing what a rifle will really do. And here we are talking hunting rifles, not benchrest and match rifles.
When I realized this my life got easier.

I was/am in the process of working up a load and found myself unhappy with a 0.8 moa group, to the point that I trashed my data and started over with different projectiles. At this point I'll fiddle with them but if I only end up at 0.8 again I think I will be content. Heck I probly cant even shoot good enough most days to be consistently sub moa.
 
Tell us more about your rifle as well?

Iv loaded now for 3 factory tikka 6.5cm barrels. If your getting 1moa or a bit less your doing something right. I have played around with my loads enough to say that it just isn’t a bartlein barrel cut by a good smith. It’s a factory barrel with a factory chamber. You could mess around trying to squeeze .25” out of your group, or you could load some ammo and go learn your gun off the bench.

Just my 2 cents.

Another thing to remember; this is the internet. All these cutout targets are probably of guys best groups. Best cherry picked groups with cherry picked ES SD numbers are not showing what a rifle will really do. And here we are talking hunting rifles, not benchrest and match rifles.
Thats funny right there. Just trying to help. I posted those two groups I shot last week prone off a sandbag after mounting new scopes on two Weaver Custom 280AIs. Our hunting rifles.


Ill just stay on the sidelines from now on😃
 
Thats funny right there. Just trying to help. I posted those two groups I shot last week prone off a sandbag after mounting new scopes on two Weaver Custom 280AIs. Our hunting rifles.


Ill just stay on the sidelines from now on😃
It was a general statement not directed at you, carry on

I post cherry picked groups too 👍
 
When I realized this my life got easier.

I was/am in the process of working up a load and found myself unhappy with a 0.8 moa group, to the point that I trashed my data and started over with different projectiles. At this point I'll fiddle with them but if I only end up at 0.8 again I think I will be content. Heck I probly cant even shoot good enough most days to be consistently sub moa.
Funny ^, I was in the same boat. I have a 1/2 dozen rifles that I load for and get 3/8-5/8 moa out of them. Then I have my favorite hunting rifle (Remington m-7 300saum) that I think I've worn the barrel out on trying to come up with a load. After a few million rounds down the pipe I've figured out its a 1 1/4 gun and no better.
 
Tell us more about your rifle as well?

Iv loaded now for 3 factory tikka 6.5cm barrels. If your getting 1moa or a bit less your doing something right. I have played around with my loads enough to say that it just isn’t a bartlein barrel cut by a good smith. It’s a factory barrel with a factory chamber. You could mess around trying to squeeze .25” out of your group, or you could load some ammo and go learn your gun off the bench.

Just my 2 cents.

Another thing to remember; this is the internet. All these cutout targets are probably of guys best groups. Best cherry picked groups with cherry picked ES SD numbers are not showing what a rifle will really do. And here we are talking hunting rifles, not benchrest and match rifles.

Good to keep in mind. Reasonable expectations are important.

I love when you see a that nice little group posted and the guy has his finger on the target pointing to the group. Maybe I’m cynical but I bet there’s a hole under that finger. But I’m sure it was a called flyer, so it shouldn’t count. I wouldn’t worry about that little guy.

I have a rem model 7 with a trued action and a benchmark barrel cut by a good smith and it will shoot cloverleafs with just about anything. Maybe 1moa ish is all this gun will shoot. It’s a SS T3x cut to 22” with a MBM brake and bedded in an allterra carbon stock with MT rail, Seekins rings NF NXS and MT bottom metal. I’ll probably take this barrel to 2k rounds and rebarrel it to 284 win. I really like this gun and it’s my favorite to shoot. I do get hits on 12” steel out to 700 with it. I need to cut some grass at the ranch to clear a sight line to my 1k target. Maybe I should just buy some bigger steel plates and be happy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
8487D10E-3C4E-4B42-A244-FA8B2B1CEBA2.jpeg

Do you like this one? I wonder what’s under the nickel. Beats just measuring the good ones and saying the other are fliers!

Sounds like you have a good shooting rifle. If it’s holding a minute out to 700 I wouldn’t want to be an animal in your path. Either way Lapua is good brass, necks much more consistent, and less work to prep. Better yet you can get Berger loaded ammo in Lapua brass for a decent price, well decent before 2020, and not have to waste components fire forming.
 
View attachment 303616

Do you like this one? I wonder what’s under the nickel. Beats just measuring the good ones and saying the other are fliers!

Sounds like you have a good shooting rifle. If it’s holding a minute out to 700 I wouldn’t want to be an animal in your path. Either way Lapua is good brass, necks much more consistent, and less work to prep. Better yet you can get Berger loaded ammo in Lapua brass for a decent price, well decent before 2020, and not have to waste components fire forming.

I would have loved to find some loaded ammo with lapua brass for the exact reason you mention.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I know this thread is 5 years old, but I was searching for info instead of asking this question again. I have been collecting Hornady 6.5 brass for 8 years. It weighs from 145-154 grains. Ive tested it mixed and haven't noticed a difference in accuracy at 100 yards. However, when I load cases in the 145-147gr vs 152-154gr, I get and average 20 fps increase in velocity with the heavier cases using the exact same load shooting both on the same day. I've tested this several times. I'm trying to figure out if sorting cases is close to buying Lapua or Alpha brass. Problem is I keep getting free Hornady brass so kinda of hard to pay $130 for more brass.
 
I don't think you'd see repeatable large sample data to show that weight sorting will make a difference.

For the 6.5 I'd buy better brass. ADG, Alpha or Peterson.

Then I'd shoot Sierra bullets. Sierra just seems to shoot with little fuss. Unless the gun doesn't like the powder.

My load dev is pretty simple.
Once brass is prepped with a bushing die.

Pick a bullet

Pick a powder that'll give max velocity and should shoot good.

Load 10 at book max with that powder.

Then I'll pick a second and third choice of powder and load 10.

Seat depth is a min of 60 thou. Sometimes more. Depending on magazine size. Form told us about going longer and the issues it can cause in the field. Once I set my seating did I forget it's adjustable.

Shoot single 10 shot groups with these testers.

Goal is 1 moa for 10 or a tad over.

If nothing works I may try a different powder or bullet.

I found that anything besides this just leads to a lot of tail chasing. It's 20-30 min for me to run out and test loads. Plus time to set everything up to shoot.

This is how I got this load for my 223 ai. A little different because I didn't know the max of powder. Tried a half grain under and it was good but slower. Added a half grain and no pressure issues and gave me the 2700+ I wanted.

I'll watch guys on YouTube chasing their tails on load dev. Trying powder charges by the half grain then seat depth etc. A half grain change won't have much effect on dispersion. So with three or five shots you're basically not seeing anything meaningful. You don't have enough sample size to see any changes you may have tried.

Not saying this is the right or only way. But for a blue collar dad with a bunch of kids it's the simplest way I've found.

6f27a9474465be389cde9c2c45eefd89.jpg

4f4b89e8b19fc84375c34af7aa91110d.jpg
 
Back
Top