Understanding seating depth for my rifle

BowBaboon

Lil-Rokslider
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I apologize if this isn’t the most coherent post, but I’m trying to go about reloading for my rifle without making some ding-dong mistake.

Pertinent information:
Tikka t3x lite 6.5 creedmoor 18” factory barrel
I have about 500 factory rounds shot through the gun
Trying to load Hornady 140 BTHP match

So I followed the steps in the Nosler reloading guide (7) that have you flatten the edge of a case previously fired case left unsized, insert a sharpied bullet to the case, chamber the dummy round, close the chamber to mark the sharpied part of the bullet, remove, and measure the dummy round based on where it touched the lands. I did this 5 times to get an average of 2.864”. However, when I looked at the Hornady manual it states the COL as 2.825” which puts my COL 0.039” longer than book. Even if I bump it back .02 for the “jump,” I’m still .019 longer than book.

This is the first time I’m reloading, so if this is has been covered and I missed it I apologize. How should I proceed on this rifle?
 
Book COL is a suggestion by the bullet mfg. Nothing more. They set it to feed and function in all rifles, but yours may be longer. Check your magazine length as that can often times be a limiting factor as well. Assuming you aren’t jamming bullets into the lands, and they fit the mag, it’s actually a good thing to be able to load them longer as it increases the volume for powder.

Important to also note that the book COL is what the load data was pressure tested at with a given powder. Deviating from it in a big direction + or - can impact pressure. You will notice it faster if you jam the bullets into the lands or have very little jump. Obviously start well below max and work up looking for pressure.

You can also just load some up at book COL and they’ll likely shoot just fine. Measuring max COL the way you did can work, but if the bullet grabs the lands while chambering you can get an artificially long max COL measurement because it seats out a bit when you extract.
 
A sammi spec chamber is going to assume a coal of 2.825 for factory ammo. Why do you want to start so close to the lands? It’s not a recommended practice for a hunting or any rifle that requires a high level of functionality to be that close to the lands or jammed, you’re just asking for a stuck bullet and an action full of powder at some point. I usually start 25 thou off the lands find my desired powder charge then do jump testing in 10 thou increments 20-80 thou off. When I find my best shooting jump I will fine tune 5 thou on either side. If your numbers are correct I would start at 2.840 coal. I use CBTO measurement instead of coal unless magazine restriction comes into play otherwise I’m not concerned with coal
 
Just use book COL or close and see how it goes. Beliefs about the alleged importance of seating depth is mostly voodoo caused by insufficient sample sizes.

It probably doesn’t matter for most practical applications in 1-1.25 MOA rifles you are probably shooting.
 
Seating the bullet shorter or longer than published specs isn't inherently problematic but does deviate from published data so you need to be careful; start well below max and watch for pressure signs. Get yourself a Hornady comparator and a CBTO measuring tool for an easier way to measure max COAL/CBTO. I start with finding the lands just to make sure I'm not jamming the bullet into the rifling. I proceed to load to just under max mag length for charge weight testing. Then, I test for seating depth by loading 5 rounds each reducing seating depth by .005"-.01" from the max mag length. I hate to admit it, but I can't prove that seating depth testing has ever produced a better handload.
 
I use a sized case and seat a bullet shallow. Measure COL and then Use the Sharpie, and chamber the round. Verify the COL hasn't changed and look for the lands marks. Seat slightly deeper and repeat until the lands marks just slightly disappear. The COL is a vague number, CBTO is what you really want to know. With out a comparator, you'll pull your hair out because bullet tips lie, especially lead ones. I use this gizmo because they are cheap, fast, repeatable and give you a solid number to record.
 
I'd load up a dummy so that it fits in your mag. Sharpie one up, and if the bullet isnt into the lands, consider that part done.
 
If this is your first time reloading I would not bother with tweaking the OAL based on my rifle. Stick to spec. The impact of tweaking OAL is debated to death, and the conclusion I came to is the impact on accuracy is minimal and I'm just not that good of a shot for it to make a difference.

Additionally, you really need to understand pressure signs if you are going to deviate from standard spec. I've been reloading for fifteen years and I'm still not certain about some of the more subtle signs.

The perfect reload is one hell of a rabbit hole. You can spend a lot of time and money trying to find the perfect round. The variable I found to be the most important is powder consistency. Things like tweaking OAL are tiny fractional improvements at best. Clean, resize, trim and deburr if needed, primer, powder then the bullet. Go shoot.

FWIW, I reload 6.5cm for my wife's rifle. Hornady 140 or 143 grain bullet, StaBall 6.5 powder. OAL to spec. It's dead nuts accurate. It matches the Hornady Hunter round results.
 
If I were advising a new reloader in person and they gave me the info you just did about your throat length, I'd tell them to either a) start at book-spec COAL and forget seating depth, or b) start by backing your COAL off by 0.060" and even if that put you seating deeper than book-spec, go with that. There are some fairly decent indicators that something like 0.060" off the lands is a very good trouble-free seating depth over the lifespan of a barrel.

(It's much more complex than that, but that's enough for a new reloader, and then some).

I'd probably just stick with book depth.

Just know that seating longer lowers pressure - to a point. As you get into the lands, pressure increases, due to the force needed to start the bullet moving into the lands from a dead stop. Seating deeper avoids that problem but also effectively reduces capacity. None of this will be a problem if you take to heart the advice repeated in every load manual - start low and work up, for safety. If you have a tight chamber and short throat and thick brass and hotter primers, you could easily end up with max pressure a full grain, or more, before your buddy with the same rifle with a slightly bigger chamber and longer throat and thinner brass (thin brass means more effective capacity) and a standard primer. And all load data - whether found in a manual or online from other people or in a model like QL or GRT - is just a sort of n=1 data point that can't be assumed to be universally safe.

If you have a chronograph, use it. If you start load workup and someone's book max load with a given set of components and barrel length is 2700' and you get above that even with less powder, there's a very good chance you're hitting max pressures, even if you don't see signs. TANSTAAFL. Velocity=pressure, at the end of the day. And you may well hit pressure signs before you hit someone else's published max safe speeds. Life will go on, I assure you. You'll see minor variations in barrel speeds between barrels but nothing major.

But whatever you do, don't start chasing seating depth optimization based on smaller sample sizes. That's a great way to chase your tail and convince yourself you've found 'the load' based on a single 3-shot or even 5-shot cluster of shots.
 
Y’all are the bee’s knees. Thanks for everyone’s input on the topic.

It likely would’ve been helpful for me to put my goals in the initial post. I’m just hoping to reload ammo that will get me 1.5moa at 500 for more economical practice and to learn some new skills along the way.

I will load some at book COL with a lighter charge and slowly work up.
 
It brought a smile to my face seeing someone use a traditional method of determining length into the lands. Good job. Marketing has convinced most new reloaders the only way to determine such things is a fancy gizmo, but as you’ve seen the fancy toy wouldn’t have changed anything. The same will be true of shoulder push back.

Not a bad idea to start at published lengths and tinker with length after you’ve settled into what kind of reloading fits your preferences. No rifle on opening morning of the deer season has been put out of commission with standard length rounds, but many newly developed loads .xxx” off the lands were too long to function in magazines, or were some how loaded longer than desired and stuck the bullet in the bore and dumped powder as the case was removed. A good rule of thumb is to cycle a number of rounds through the chamber to not have any surprises before important hunting or range trips.

Just following good basic reloading practices like those described in the book are good to well below MOA accuracy if the rifle is capable. Keep up the good work.
 
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