Unable to develop load for rifle

[452b264]

I would change bullet brand and or weight.

 

[4ester]

I’d personally look at the gun first. Properly bedded? Floated and not contacting barrel during shooting? Good trustworthy scope, rings, bases tight. Worth mentioning anyway.

Are you capable of shooting a magnum caliber for good groups? Don’t take this the wrong way….. some people struggle.

Personally if it won’t shoot Berger’s I’d be worried. They are typically my go to.

Being it’s all new brass, you are still fireforming. But still should shoot better then that.


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[amassi]

Shitty. I bought 10 pounds of H1000 and 400 Berger bullets due to availability and probably not being able to find more.

Change from Bergers completely or just go down in bullet weight again? Ditch the H1000?


Has anyone had quality components like Bergers flat out not work at all like this? I was under the impression from competition shooters like Eric Cortina that you could tune just about anything as long as it wasn't a crap component.

Keep the h1k I've never seen a 300wm that didn't love it. You need a new boolit

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[amassi]

I’d personally look at the gun first. Properly bedded? Floated and not contacting barrel during shooting? Good trustworthy scope, rings, bases tight. Worth mentioning anyway.

Are you capable of shooting a magnum caliber for good groups? Don’t take this the wrong way….. some people struggle.

Personally if it won’t shoot Berger’s I’d be worried. They are typically my go to.

Being it’s all new brass, you are still fireforming. But still should shoot better then that.


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It shoots factory ammo well so probably isn't the gun.

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[IDspud]

Before you bail...

Hows the neck tension? Is it a saami chamber or custom? What dies? What's the biggest jump you've tried? Velocity?

I have a rifle that will shoot very sub moa but the lrab shot 2" plus groups. I had to talk to the ballisticians to get advice. I ended up way deep and a factory crimp and dropped to sub moa again.

Forgot to mention I set neck tension with a mandrel. .002 I think it is? Can't remember.

Saami chamber I imagine. Forster micrometer comp dies. Not positive on the number for longest jump because I stopped caring about that number once I realized I want to be able to use my mag and needed to load accordingly.

 

[IDspud]

I’d personally look at the gun first. Properly bedded? Floated and not contacting barrel during shooting? Good trustworthy scope, rings, bases tight. Worth mentioning anyway.

Are you capable of shooting a magnum caliber for good groups? Don’t take this the wrong way….. some people struggle.

Personally if it won’t shoot Berger’s I’d be worried. They are typically my go to.

Being it’s all new brass, you are still fireforming. But still should shoot better then that.


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Like I said it shoots factory ammo fine...Sub MOA... It's not the gun or me. ZCO optic is solid.

I also did this with fire formed GunWerks brass prior to this, then switched to Petersen brass and went from 220 grain to 200 grains.


I'm going to try and find some 185 Juggernauts or something. Everything sucks right now and it's a terrible time to try and find components for a picky gun.

I imagine if I switch bullets I'm starting all over looking for OCW and seating depth...?

 

[amassi]

Forgot to mention I set neck tension with a mandrel. .002 I think it is? Can't remember.

Saami chamber I imagine. Forster micrometer comp dies. Not positive on the number for longest jump because I stopped caring about that number once I realized I want to be able to use my mag and needed to load accordingly.

If you want to mag load that may prevent use of the bergers. There's a multitude of bullets less finicky about seating depth. Eld, tmk, tgk, regular accubond.

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[IDspud]

If you want to mag load that may prevent use of the bergers. There's a multitude of bullets less finicky about seating depth. Eld, tmk, tgk, regular accubond.

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Can you throw me the names of a few of the more likely ones? I probably won't have a lot to choose from.

 

[amassi]

Can you throw me the names of a few of the more likely ones? I probably won't have a lot to choose from.

Hornady eld-m and eld-x
Sierra tipped matchking/gameking
Nosler accubond( the regular one- not the long range)
Swift scirocco II

What factory ammo shot well?

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[IDspud]

Hornady eld-m and eld-x
Sierra tipped matchking/gameking
Nosler accubond( the regular one- not the long range)
Swift scirocco II

What factory ammo shot well?

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Thanks. I believe they were Hornady somethings. Maybe ELD. Sounds right.

 

[WeiserBucks]

If all else fails, get a sample pack of Hammer bullets. I've never seen a rifle that wouldn't shoot them well, some rifles shoot them amazingly well.

 

[4ester]

If you want to mag load that may prevent use of the bergers. There's a multitude of bullets less finicky about seating depth. Eld, tmk, tgk, regular accubond.

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Berger Classic Hunters have a shorter nose and should feed fine, and most of the hybrid type bullets aren’t as finicky about seating depth.


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[OXN939]

No. It’s bs. Change bullets or powder. If a rifle does not shoot a bullet/powder combo acceptably, no amount of incremental tinkering will result in a stable load with that combo. You’re wasting time and money.

This. If you want a big change in your groups, make a big change in your recipe... i.e., change a component. Tinkering with seating depth or powder charge is for fine tuning once you find a load your rifle likes. It definitely does not like whatever you're feeding it.

 

[4ester]

It shoots factory ammo well so probably isn't the gun.

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Define well? Like it shot one good group? Or repeatedly.

If likes that bullet, maybe try to find some and run the H1000.

I think I’d try dropping to like a 185 vld and see if it comes around.


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[Quant]

I had similar issues with Berger 210s and 215s (also tried 212 ELDX) and H1000, and nearly burned up a barrel trying different combinations of powders charges, primers, seating depth, and neck tension. Finally switched to H4831 SC, and the gun is now a tack driver…with slightly less velocity. For reasons I can’t explain, that gun just hates H1000…I have another 300 Win that loves it, and it’s still the fist powder I would try with a new barrel.

One final thought…I always start Berger VLDs 0.05” off the lands. The final tune usually ends up between 0.04 and 0.09. They seem to like more jump than you might expect.

 

[HOT ROD]

My 300 wm hates H1000 but it does shoot H4831 very well my rifle is a Tikka T3 lite thought... I don't worry about oal or measuring to the ogive I can't get to the lands any way in the factory magazine. So I seat the bullets to run in the magazine and run them. Believe it or not Berger 200 hybrids shot good out of the mag they had to be jumping 100 thousand plus. I have since moved on to the 185 juggernauts' H4831 73 grain loaded mag length....

 

[MidGAHunter]

I imagine if I switch bullets I'm starting all over looking for OCW and seating depth...?

Don't over think it. Check out this thread.

Painless load development (mine)

I have had multiple people ask me to lay out how I do load development being that what I do is different. Since Shaen @Shooter71 just rebarreled a Tikka 595 in 6XC I thought it would be easy to show how I do it. It’s a Master Sporter with a T3 lite profiled 20” barrel- keep in mind it is a T3...

www.rokslide.com

 

[brn2hnt]

I had similar issues with Berger 210s and 215s (also tried 212 ELDX) and H1000, and nearly burned up a barrel trying different combinations of powders charges, primers, seating depth, and neck tension. Finally switched to H4831 SC, and the gun is now a tack driver…with slightly less velocity. For reasons I can’t explain, that gun just hates H1000…I have another 300 Win that loves it, and it’s still the fist powder I would try with a new barrel.

One final thought…I always start Berger VLDs 0.05” off the lands. The final tune usually ends up between 0.04 and 0.09. They seem to like more jump than you might expect.

If he’s loading under make length like he stated he’s likely nowhere near the lands in a factory rifle.


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[35WhelenAI]

Thanks. I believe they were Hornady somethings. Maybe ELD. Sounds right.

ID, What bullet weight? Hornady "somethings" come in 178, 200 in ELD-X from what I understand.

 

[Wrench]

I'd see if anyone can spare a few smk's, or eldm's.

I had similar issues with Berger 210s and 215s (also tried 212 ELDX) and H1000, and nearly burned up a barrel trying different combinations of powders charges, primers, seating depth, and neck tension. Finally switched to H4831 SC, and the gun is now a tack driver…with slightly less velocity. For reasons I can’t explain, that gun just hates H1000…I have another 300 Win that loves it, and it’s still the fist powder I would try with a new barrel.

One final thought…I always start Berger VLDs 0.05” off the lands. The final tune usually ends up between 0.04 and 0.09. They seem to like more jump than you might expect.

The balisticians at noz explained it to me as the bullet slugging up takes a bit of "dwell" and some powder/primer combos will ignite the primer which causes the bullet to jump at the primer, then dwell on the leade and then have the primary pressure event occur at random times based on the event. This usually is quick to spot on the chronograph and typically with slow powders, light neck tensions and sharp leade angles or carbon rings.