UM Tikka Bubble Level

Gonewest

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I’m looking for feedback on this. Those that have used one how do you like it? Are you happy with it or would you do something different?
 

Sadler

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I’m looking for feedback on this. Those that have used one how do you like it? Are you happy with it or would you do something different?
It’s the first rail mounted level I’ve owned and I really like it. You have a lot of flexibility on where to put it and it’s low profile enough I dont think it’ll snag on anything
 
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So far been happy with mine. Have found no downsides or reasons to remove. Doesn’t snag is easily visible when I’m behind the rifle with both eyes open. If I get anymore tikkas in the future it will have one.
 

TheTone

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Strongly considering buying one soon. Are there any other options out there that mount to the tikka dovetail?
 

swavescatter

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I tolerate it. Seems so fragile but so far so good. The miniscule torque spec scares me.

I prefer the integrated level on my XLR chassis the most ( [mention]Unknown Munitions [/mention] [mention]Stockys [/mention] for Rokstock 2.0!), Followed by the top ring cap Night force version ( [mention]Unknown Munitions [/mention] for UM Tikka rings!).

At this point I just run it over any other standard bubble clamp style for looks. I like my green one better than blue for visibility.
 

Rob5589

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For a glasses wearer, I found it far too small to see without them on. I don't shoot with my glasses on.
 

Sled

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I just use mine to level my tikka rifles when mounting a scope.
Same here. Good tool to reference when mounting. I've modified my wheeler scope mounting kit to fit inside the action, so one more reference helps. Then I usually put a regular bubble on that goes scope tube.
 

id_jon

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I overtorqued mine like an idiot, still need to contact them about that 😅
I'm with @Jimbee, I think it's best for just levelling your gun when installing a scope. I prefer a scope mounted level when shooting
 
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I like mine and have been using it hard since August I think. No issues for me at all. I put mine forward of my rear ring and can see it fine. It might be better further forward but I haven’t had any problems.
 

JCMCUBIC

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Nov 22, 2020
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I like it. Simple, light, low profile. I use a level on all the rifle/scope setups that I'll dial with. A pro of the UM, or any rail mounted vs scope mounted, is it's less weight on the scope, so less weight supported by the rings. It's a small amount, likely has little impact, but it still reduces the mass supported by the rings during recoil, etc. Again, it's a minor thing.

They are much easier to mount than a scope mounted level.

I agree on preferring the green/amber to the blue for visibility. In good light either is fine, but as light fades, the blue is harder to see (for me).
 

Marbles

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Mine sits in a box. I prefer a scope mounted level, set it to the reticle, then I can mount the scope how level feels most comfortable naturally, which usually involves a few degrees of cant.

Level reticle and dialing is what matters. So long is that is consistent, how it relates to the bore doesn't.

The UM levels are nice and neet though.
 
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I have only put a few rounds through the rifle I have one on. So far, I really like being able to see my level while looking through the scope.

I'm not sure I understand the comments about it being too small to see. It's like eight inches from your face.

It's the only level bubble I have ever had on a rifle so I don't have anything to compare it to.
 
OP
Gonewest

Gonewest

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Thank you for all of the replies. Maybe I’ll look and see if anyone is looking to sell a used green one.
 

Sled

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Mine sits in a box. I prefer a scope mounted level, set it to the reticle, then I can mount the scope how level feels most comfortable naturally, which usually involves a few degrees of cant.

Level reticle and dialing is what matters. So long is that is consistent, how it relates to the bore doesn't.

The UM levels are nice and neet though.

Not sure we agree there. Dialing with a canted reticle is a good way to throw a shot off at longer distances.

Edit: are you leveling the to the canted reticle or bore?
 
Last edited:

lintond

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Not sure we agree there. Dialing with a canted reticle is a good way to throw a shot off at longer distances.

Edit: are you leveling the to the canted reticle or bore?

I think he is saying the rifle is canted to a natural shooting position but the reticle is level. So the reticle is not square to the gun.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Marbles

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Not sure we agree there. Dialing with a canted reticle is a good way to throw a shot off at longer distances.

Edit: are you leveling the to the canted reticle or bore?
The reticle must be level. If the reticle is canted that causes problems. To put it differently, I level the reticle/scope and cant the rifle butt a few degrees to sit in the pocket most naturally.



Now to correct my over simplified statement about that relationship to the bore doesn't matter (and probably confuse everyone as this really needs a 3D animation).

Too much offset of the scope from being perpendicular to the bore complicates precision of impacts as the straight line of the site no longer stays over the bullet, so instead of the bullet and sight line interacting in a two dimensional way, it becomes three dimensional and rather than just up/down adjustment for ranges other than zero, you also have left right offset that needs adjustment. A few degrees is unlikely to be significant as it only puts the site line offset laterally to the bore by about 0.1 inch, meaning with a 100 yard zero a vertical only adjustment to the scope will put the bullet latter to point of aim by 0.9 inches at 1000 yards. Setting the scope on the side of the bore would have more effect and make adjustment more complicated.

I think he is saying the rifle is canted to a natural shooting position but the reticle is level. So the reticle is not square to the gun.
Yes, thank you.
 
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