Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

[Sundodger]

Trying to sort out my extraction issue on my solo 300 in 300 black out.

Scoped the chamber, saw a few rough spots, so decided to remove the barrel and polish it up with some bronze wire brush.

Scoped it after the polish, not perfect, but better.

Took it too the range and extraction was better, but not great. First few shots it took more effort than I wanted to eject a case, but technically worked. Once it started warming up it got worse. Only needed a mallet to tap it out of battery once which is a huge improvement, but still pretty unacceptable. Coupled times I pulled hard enough to get it out of battery that the extractor let go of the case rim before the case could eject, leaving the empty case on top of my mag.

Letting the gun cool for about 15 min, it was back to extracting like it did when I first got to the range (not great, but good enough).

What do you guys think? Anything else to try before I send this thing back to solo 300? Not sure a second or third polishing is going to completely fix this.

Before polishing:

After polishing:

 

[Trackselk]

Trying to sort out my extraction issue on my solo 300 in 300 black out.

Scoped the chamber, saw a few rough spots, so decided to remove the barrel and polish it up with some bronze wire brush.

Scoped it after the polish, not perfect, but better.

Took it too the range and extraction was better, but not great. First few shots it took more effort than I wanted to eject a case, but technically worked. Once it started warming up it got worse. Only needed a mallet to tap it out of battery once which is a huge improvement, but still pretty unacceptable. Coupled times I pulled hard enough to get it out of battery that the extractor let go of the case rim before the case could eject, leaving the empty case on top of my mag.

Letting the gun cool for about 15 min, it was back to extracting like it did when I first got to the range (not great, but good enough).

What do you guys think? Anything else to try before I send this thing back to solo 300? Not sure a second or third polishing is going to completely fix this.

Before polishing:

After polishing:

I'd just send it back to get fixed, unless it's your only rifle for a hunt or something. Please let us know how this works out.

 

[Thegman]

I'd just send it back to get fixed, unless it's your only rifle for a hunt or something. Please let us know how this works out.

That sounds like good advice.

 

[ProRoad]

This thread is amazing, great info and some beautiful builds for sure! So, in my envy, I have just started going down the rabbit hole with my first AR build which has turned into 2 builds.

Build one is a used S&W M&P Sport 2, 16" chambered in .223. I plan to remove the A frame sight and gradually start lightening, probably not to the extent of build two. (maybe not worth it at all)

Build two is new BCA 18" Bolt action upper, chambered in 6mm ARC. (I plan to suppress) I had planned to use a Shield Arms folding lower on this bolt gun but Shield says I should still use the buffer as its proprietary and required in the folding lower. I know they are "light" but in reading this thread, I have not seen one used. I also have an Anderson lower which is an option.

Any thoughts on these builds and gradual first steps toward end case, which would be, light and accurate backcountry, coyote and small game, would be great. (I have a 7.08 and 30.06 for larger game)

Thanks in advance.
Brian

 

[Taudisio]

This thread is amazing, great info and some beautiful builds for sure! So, in my envy, I have just started going down the rabbit hole with my first AR build which has turned into 2 builds.

Build one is a used S&W M&P Sport 2, 16" chambered in .223. I plan to remove the A frame sight and gradually start lightening, probably not to the extent of build two. (maybe not worth it at all)

Build two is new BCA 18" Bolt action upper, chambered in 6mm ARC. (I plan to suppress) I had planned to use a Shield Arms folding lower on this bolt gun but Shield says I should still use the buffer as its proprietary and required in the folding lower. I know they are "light" but in reading this thread, I have not seen one used. I also have an Anderson lower which is an option.

Any thoughts on these builds and gradual first steps toward end case, which would be, light and accurate backcountry, coyote and small game, would be great. (I have a 7.08 and 30.06 for larger game)

Thanks in advance.
Brian

What is your end goal for the rifle?
Weight? Species you want to hunt? Max range you want to shoot?

 

[ProRoad]

End goal is light and accurate backcountry hunting rifle, stable enough to shoot 300 yards, coyote, small game, deer and antelope. I like to hike several miles in and a 9lb rifle is not cutting it anymore. Weight undetermined as of yet but not trying to set any records. Mostly I am intrigued by the AR platform and want to build something I like.

 

[Taudisio]

End goal is light and accurate backcountry hunting rifle, stable enough to shoot 300 yards, coyote, small game, deer and antelope. I like to hike several miles in and a 9lb rifle is not cutting it anymore. Weight undetermined as of yet but not trying to set any records. Mostly I am intrigued by the AR platform and want to build something I like.

The OG parts on page one should get you all of those things. The 6arc can be a bit “sticky” in bolt action ar’s and I would gently nudge you to look away from the fat case (though others have had some luck). The BCA has had some positive feedback, but you will gain some weight and notes have been made that the action is easily opened (I have no first hand experience with any BCAs). Ar’s are pretty simple creatures. Once you get a lower in your house, the rest of the riffle will ship to your front door. I have had 0 issues with the TN arms carbon fiber lowers. They will shave weight over any aluminum counterpart.

A 4 pound hunting rifle is a real treat when you are walking around which is 99.95% of our hunting time. There is an added challenge when trying to hold it steady during the shot. Nothing that can’t be worked through though. Especially at 300 yards and under.

 

[Thegman]

All good advice so far. If you want a fairly simple sub-4lb AR gasser go with the first build on the thread and for the gasser parts use a:
Wilson or BCA pencil barrel
Jag Composites handguard.
DSA Aluminum bolt carrier
Adjustable gas block (you'll set it very low)
and pull the weights out of your buffer.

That will get you below 4#.

The polymer LPK from NFA is currently unavailable, so you'll probably have to get aluminum pivot pins and other small parts separately, unless you just use an inexpensive steel LPK. I'd opt for getting parts separately, including a better trigger than in most cheap LPKs.