Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

[Thegman]

New solo 300 owner here, is this normal?

Without the magazine installed the bolt doesn’t want to stay forward in battery and will still fire even with the bolt halfway back (about 1.75” from forward position). I am struggling to see how this isn’t a problem…

Also, are you guys keeping the bolt catch installed? Seems pointless with this upper.

https://imgur.com/a/8NLBE4u

I've started cleaning the oil/grease from my detent bearings with carb cleaner and using Lock-Ease graphite spray on them. That seems to work pretty well and I think it reduces the chances of them gumming up and getting sticky/sticking. Teflon dry lube would probably work as well but haven't tried it yet.

I'd also try removing the spring behind your bolt and see if you prefer that. That's always working against the bolt staying in battery like was happening with yours. Less chance of the bolt accidentally getting pushed out of battery without the spring pushing back on the bolt carrier.

 

[Trackselk]

@Thegman
Do you remove the bolt spring in general? Does it give us any advantages?

 

[Sundodger]

Teflon dry lube

Thank you. I was waffling back and forth about what lube to use; oil, grease, etc.

If a dry film provides the lubricity and the film durability needed, I am onboard. I hate how much oil/grease attracts dust/grit and how they will slowly leach out of where I want it to be to where you don't want.

 

[robtattoo]

@Thegman
Do you remove the bolt spring in general? Does it give us any advantages?

I did, on both of mine.
I found it less likely to knock a round out of battery without the spring. It's definitely smoother to chamber & eject a round.

 

[Trackselk]

I did, on both of mine.
I found it less likely to knock a round out of battery without the spring. It's definitely smoother to chamber & eject a round.

Thanks! With my 3/4" minimal bolt handle mine stays firmly in battery through hell or high water, but the flip side is that tiny handle makes it tough to chamber and extract rounds. I'm going to love this rifle even more now with the spring removed!

On a related subject, I've been meaning to warn the community that the poly safety selector can 'walk' to the fire position when the rifle is slung over ones back. I just cut and sanded mine down, which should solve the problem. I will progressively sand it down flatter if it's still a problem. When I hunt solo there's one in the chamber....
Oh, and I had to change to a metal (detent pin?) For the safety, as it was NOT engaging with enough force to stop a high wind from changing it's position! Ymmv

 

[robtattoo]

Thanks! With my 3/4" minimal bolt handle mine stays firmly in battery through hell or high water, but the flip side is that tiny handle makes it tough to chamber and extract rounds. I'm going to love this rifle even more now with the spring removed!

On a related subject, I've been meaning to warn the community that the poly safety selector can 'walk' to the fire position when the rifle is slung over ones back. I just cut and sanded mine down, which should solve the problem. I will progressively sand it down flatter if it's still a problem. When I hunt solo there's one in the chamber....
Oh, and I had to change to a metal (detent pin?) For the safety, as it was NOT engaging with enough force to stop a high wind from changing it's position! Ymmv

Good to know.

Thankfully, I went with a standard, milspec LPK.

 

[Thegman]

@Thegman
Do you remove the bolt spring in general? Does it give us any advantages?

Yes, I don't run any Solos with springs anymore. No advantage to them I can see, and the advantage of less likely coming out of battery without them.

I have also installed rubber rings/washers on some bolt tails (I think #6 plumbing washer) where the gas rings would normally be. That adds some friction between the bolt and carrier that helps the bolt stay in battery even more. I'm not completely sold on that as a necessity, but worth trying to see if you like running it that way.

 

[Thegman]

Thank you. I was waffling back and forth about what lube to use; oil, grease, etc.

If a dry film provides the lubricity and the film durability needed, I am onboard. I hate how much oil/grease attracts dust/grit and how they will slowly leach out of where to want them to where you don't want them.

Yes, give it a try. The detent moves better/sticks less with the graphite dry lube than with oils. I think Teflon lube will be about as good as the graphite.

 

[Trackselk]

Yes, I don't run any Solos with springs anymore. No advantage to them I can see, and the advantage of less likely coming out of battery without them.

I have also installed rubber rings/wahers on some bolt tails (I think #6 plumbing washer) where the gas rings would normally be. That adds some friction between the bolt and carrier that helps the bolt stay in battery even more. I'm not completely sold on that as a necessity, but worth trying to see if you like running it that way.

Hmm, maybe I need to cycle mine 200 times or something, but it has a lot of resistance. Even really hot reloads and bushwacking it stays in battery, granted there isn't much for the brush to grab onto. I think I might have just got a really tight one, I'm not complaining, the Solo has been flawless we with some red aim(?) grease.
Thanks again

 

[packgoatguy]

I've got a friend interested in building a ULUL, has anyone heard when Tennessee Arms will have their Carbon Fiber lowers back in stock? Any good alternatives come on the market lately?

Carbon TNARMS-15

 

[packgoatguy]

I’m about to try out my tegra that’s still in the box since I broke my tnarms lower the other day. Hopefully they will be as good as the TNA

How's your Tegra working out?

 

[Thegman]

I've got a friend interested in building a ULUL, has anyone heard when Tennessee Arms will have their Carbon Fiber lowers back in stock? Any good alternatives come on the market lately?

Carbon TNARMS-15

No new alternatives that I've heard about. Not sure when the CF lowers will be in, but the standard glass filled TN Arms lowers are only about 0.3 or so oz heavier IIRC. Maybe that would work for him?

I think the Tegra are CF fill polymer as well so good as far as that goes. No brass inserts and they should be about 3.7 oz, also IIRC.

 

[Thegman]

Hmm, maybe I need to cycle mine 200 times or something, but it has a lot of resistance. Even really hot reloads and bushwacking it stays in battery, granted there isn't much for the brush to grab onto. I think I might have just got a really tight one, I'm not complaining, the Solo has been flawless we with some red aim(?) grease.
Thanks again

Sounds good, I wouldn't mess with it. I'd rather they be like yours with some friction and tight lockup than on the loose side. Mine have all worked very well too.

 

[ezwy]

How's your Tegra working out?

I have some tegras and they are fine. Not quite as nice fit and finish as the tn. Have to file a few holes to get them to fit. Everything works though.

 

[Sundodger]

Yes, give it a try. The detent moves better/sticks less with the graphite dry lube than with oils. I think Teflon lube will be about as good as the graphite.

Do you also use graphite spray or dry lube on the whole bolt carrier group and raceways of the upper?

If so, any rough idea how on how often it needs to be reapplied? I know there are lots of factors that can significantly change the service interval, so just trying to understand the ballpark of your experience.

 

[Thegman]

Do you also use graphite spray or dry lube on the whole bolt carrier group and raceways of the upper?

If so, any rough idea how on how often it needs to be reapplied? I know there are lots of factors that can significantly change the service interval, so just trying to understand the ballpark of your experience.

No, I'm still greasing those areas, but I should try that; good idea. The Solo probably doesn't have anywhere near the need for lube as a gasser so that might work well for other areas as well. Light grease that I'd use in a gasser has worked well everywhere else (other than detent bearing) so I've never tried it, but I will.

 

[Trackselk]

No, I'm still greasing those areas, but I should try that; good idea. The Solo probably doesn't have anywhere near the need for lube as a gasser so that might work well for other areas as well. Light grease that I'd use in a gasser has worked well everywhere else (other than detent bearing) so I've never tried it, but I will.

The thick red grease that I'm using might be why mine stays in battery so well.

 

[Sundodger]

Yes, I don't run any Solos with springs anymore. No advantage to them I can see, and the advantage of less likely coming out of battery without them.

I have also installed rubber rings/washers on some bolt tails (I think #6 plumbing washer) where the gas rings would normally be. That adds some friction between the bolt and carrier that helps the bolt stay in battery even more. I'm not completely sold on that as a necessity, but worth trying to see if you like running it that way.

Are there any pictures, videos, or posts of these changes you can send me a link to?

 

[Thegman]

Are there any pictures, videos, or posts of these changes you can send me a link to?

No, but I can post some when I get an opportunity in a few weeks. I'll link you when I do.

 

[packgoatguy]

So, if I'm not mistaken... the NFA Poly LPK is no longer available... has anyone found a suitable lightweight alternative?