Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

Also, I'd suggest you remove the extractor and take out the O-ring and plunger. This makes it easier for the extractor to snap over the case rim upon chambering.
Are you saying to dissassemble the bolt, and reassemble everything except the ejector and ejector springs (part 65 and 66)? Are those the "plunger"?

Are the O-rings the bolt gas rings part 61?

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Oh yeah, learned that one lol I have 2 bolt BCA uppers (6arc and 6.5g) and neither would chamber a round without significant force, I pulled the orings and plung but left the spring, they work perfect now.
You pulled the ejector plunger? Or is there some type of extractor plunger as well? I've torn down a few ar bolts but haven't encountered a plunger for extractor.
 
Whatever you do follow Thegman instructions and remove the gas rings and rubber bumper under the extractor. Those two make for significantly easier cycling.
Are yall doing this on the solo 300 as well? For some reason, I thought you did not need to do this on the solo 300 based on thier design.
 
I have a crazy question…… has anyone ever built a ULUL a for 308 size cartridges? Like using the Ruger SFAR or POF ROGUE.
 
You pulled the ejector plunger? Or is there some type of extractor plunger as well? I've torn down a few ar bolts but haven't encountered a plunger for extractor.
Correct both of my BCA bolt uppers came with an oring around the spring and a dense rubber or delrin insert/plunger/guide inside the spring, I have seen extractors with and without the insert over the years, not just BCA. Some kits come with them and some without. in the Grendel (and Grendel case) world it's fairly common to remove the oring and insert to assist with loading and extracting. With a manual operated AR is almost mandatory to remove them, will make life way easier.
 
You pulled the ejector plunger? Or is there some type of extractor plunger as well? I've torn down a few ar bolts but haven't encountered a plunger for extractor.
The plunger is the rubber piece in the center of the ejector spring in your picture, with the o-ring being the rubber piece surrounding the ejector spring. It's best to remove both in a manual AR.
 
Are you saying to dissassemble the bolt, and reassemble everything except the ejector and ejector springs (part 65 and 66)? Are those the "plunger"?

Are the O-rings the bolt gas rings part 61?

View attachment 979763
Both rubber pieces are show in @khuber84 s picture. O-ring outside the ejector spring and plunger inside the ejector spring.

You bring up a good point though, the three gas rings on the bolt tail should be removed as well, if they're there.

One other point: The spring in the back of the solo bolt doesn't really seem to be necessary. I find it tends to add force in pushing the bolt / bolt carrier out of battery so I remove mine. I was experimenting with adding a plumbing o-ring where the gas rings were in order to add a little friction between the bolt and the bolt carrier to help keep things locked up even better. That probably helps, but also doesn't seem to be necessary.
 
I have a crazy question…… has anyone ever built a ULUL a for 308 size cartridges? Like using the Ruger SFAR or POF ROGUE.
I don't see why the general concept wouldn't work, but the nature of the size and weight of AR10 parts would make the UL-UL part difficult if not infeasible. Seems like the SFAR would be a good place to start, but I've never looked into the idea super closely. The times I have looked at it, I just couldn't beat bolt rifle weights by much, if any.
 
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