Ultralight Ultralight Rifles

The Guide

WKR
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Barreled? Sounds like he had raised the price pretty significantly either way.
Not sure where you are getting the idea that he has raised prices "significantly". I bought my bare upper (no barrel, no Cerakote) last November @ $275 plus $14 shipping. So that is $289 shipped a V1 upper. We are now on to the V2 upper and he is offering coating. Manufacturing costs are sky rocketing and he is selling them out quite frequently. Not sure if you've ever had anything made for you but each successive run of product seems to cost more than the one before. I believe the current base cost is $300 for base upper plus $30 for coating and $14 for shipping. I would bet that the $25 increase barely kept his margin equal with inflation and increased manufacturing costs.

Jay
 

KyleR1985

WKR
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Jul 28, 2019
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493
I got lucky…

IMG_0342.jpeg

If I want to build a straight pull 6mm to squirt the 95’s, what’s my best option to avoid extraction issues?

I’ve got a 6ARC upper on the way from a contributor to this thread. I’ll keep it set up for semi auto unless someone has solved the single shot problems.

Maybe I’ll just do the .223 in straight pull for the 77’s.



Either way I have a handful of bolt rifles that will be going up for sale. This thread has shown it’s too easy to get a no nonsense gun for the type of hunting I do. I think it may actually put money back in my pocket. Ok probably not but it’s a good line to try on the wife!
 
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Please send a PM to me as well--I was thinking about a .224 Valk, 22 ARC, or 6mm ARC but wasn't optimistic about the extraction after talking with @Thegman
Nothing secretive to share, but I believe the first step is to use a non-SOLO upper and carrier. I believe those proprietary parts are exacerbating the sticking issues with fatter cartridges. That said, I could be wrong.

Below are the parts I used to build a straight-pull 6 ARC. It's a standard upper and carrier that a gunsmith milled, chopped, and drilled and tapped for me. It wasn't easy to cycle as a 6mm ARC, but it also wasn't easy to cycle when I added a 5.56 barrel. I then removed the gas rings and O ring for extractor, and the 5.56 was much easier to use, so I assume the 6mm ARC will be easier as well.

Unfortunately, my father has that rifle now and Thegman has my 6mm ARC barrel, so I can't confirm if the 6mm ARC bolt with parts removed solved the issue. I think this will work, but if it doesn't solve the issue, we'll move onto the next phase of trial and error.

IMG_1375.jpeg
 
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T

Thegman

WKR
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
702
I got lucky…

View attachment 780730

If I want to build a straight pull 6mm to squirt the 95’s, what’s my best option to avoid extraction issues?

I’ve got a 6ARC upper on the way from a contributor to this thread. I’ll keep it set up for semi auto unless someone has solved the single shot problems.

Maybe I’ll just do the .223 in straight pull for the 77’s.



Either way I have a handful of bolt rifles that will be going up for sale. This thread has shown it’s too easy to get a no nonsense gun for the type of hunting I do. I think it may actually put money back in my pocket. Ok probably not but it’s a good line to try on the wife!
So far, the only reliable extraction I've seen in the Solo are all 223-case based cartridges and 350 Legend. Anything larger than that has been sticky to the point of being impractical. I may try a couple of other things to see if it can work, but not super hopeful.

A similar set'-up with a full mass bolt carrier/buffer/spring -might- work IME, but starts approaching the weight of ultralight bolt rifles.

Best bet for now, in a Solo anyway, IMO, is going the 6x45 route for 6mm bullets. It's working really well for Taudisio, but he's running 87s, not 95s. I'm not sure what the 95TMK can do in that case. 6x45AI is probably the top of the heap Solo-able 6mm. When/if the 6mm MAX gets some legs under it, it may well be great; I'd like to try one.

223 and 77TMK etc. are capable enough and available enough that I think they're probably the most practical option.
 
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Thegman

WKR
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Nov 21, 2015
Messages
702
Nothing secretive to share, but I believe the first step is to use a non-SOLO upper and carrier. I believe those proprietary parts are exacerbating the sticking issues with fatter cartridges. That said, I could be wrong.

Below are the parts I used to build a straight-pull 6 ARC. It's a standard upper and carrier that a gunsmith milled, chopped, and drilled and tapped for me. It wasn't easy to cycle as a 6mm ARC, but it also wasn't easy to cycle when I added a 5.56 barrel. I then removed the gas rings and O ring for extractor, and the 5.56 was much easier to use, so I assume the 6mm ARC will be easier as well.

Unfortunately, my father has that rifle now and Thegman has my 6mm ARC barrel, so I can't confirm if the 6mm ARC bolt with parts removed solved the issue. I think this will work, but if it doesn't solve the issue, we'll move onto the next phase of trial and error.

View attachment 780760
Now just send me your bolt carrier and I'll check! Easy fix! 😅

Is your carrier steel or aluminum? I'm trying to figure out what other variables there are between yours and a Solo that might make that difference. The only other possibe differences I can see are the spring at the back of the bolt in the Solo and the "detent key". Those are two things I want to check.
 
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Is your carrier steel or aluminum? I'm trying to figure out what other variables there are between yours and a Solo that might make that difference. The only other possibe differences I can see are the spring at the back of the bolt in the Solo and the "detent key". Those are two things I want to check.
I used a steel carrier on the 6 ARC build. I wonder if an undersized bolt would make a difference on these fatties?
 
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Thegman

WKR
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
702
I used a steel carrier on the 6 ARC build. I wonder if an undersized bolt would make a difference on these fatties?
That's another possible avenue.

The only difference I see with a steel carrier is more inertia at the end of the recoil impulse possibly breaking the case loose enough to aid extraction. That was my hypothesis why my fatter cases worked okay in a full mass steel bolt carrier set-up, but I never really tested that idea further. I just decided there were enough good options with the 223 case that I quit before I tested other ideas.

There are definitely a couple of avenues worth testing.
 
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Taudisio

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If I found someone willing so sell or trade me 30 of the 95g tmks, I would give them a try. I need to do a little research on them. I would guess (with no knowledge of their length/base-ogive) I could get them to 2650 from my 16” 6x45. I got the 87gr up to 2750 but I had too much pressure and backed it down to have only one pressure sign 😂
My average for the 87 is at 2690 with a higher than ideal es/sd. It doesn’t really give me anything over the 77gr tmk except 10gr of extra lead, and easy to find bullets, but I really enjoy the cartridge and it is legal to hunt elk. IIRC I had the 90gr nosler BT at 2630 without signs or any difficulties. I have a pile of other powders I could try, but I haven’t bothered once I found an accurate load. Once I fill my last deer tag, or Nov 8th comes around, my season is over and I’m open to playing with new loads. I’m around 850 rounds down the barrel.

I did pop open my chamber (like everyone is scared to do) on Monday. I was carrying the rifle uphill, in my right hand and the bolt rubbed my leg. It was audible and I promptly closed it back up. The lightweight and balance of the rifle is still the best thing ever for walking around in the woods. Feels like a 10/22.
 
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Mar 6, 2013
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@doverpack12.
How did the Bear Creek shoot? I’ve thought about a side charger in one of these as a starting point. Thanks.

Fantastic. One shot to get roughly on target. Shots 2-6 are in the 5 shot group. Then made a vertical adjustment and shot the bull on shot 7. Took it to 425 and hit a gong dead center for shot 8 and then went to 571 and shot two shots both on the gong for 9 and 10. Using a molinator for a front rest on hand guard and jellyfish for rear.
Now to decide if I disassemble and actually torque when the reaction rod gets here.
IMG_4708.jpeg
 
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On another topic. What the heck are the extra o rings for in the package with my new solo 300 upper? They are in a baggie with a sticker. No instructions
 

BLJ

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Fantastic. One shot to get roughly on target. Shots 2-6 are in the 5 shot group. Then made a vertical adjustment and shot the bull on shot 7. Took it to 425 and hit a gong dead center for shot 8 and then went to 571 and shot two shots both on the gong for 9 and 10. Using a molinator for a front rest on hand guard and jellyfish for rear.
Now to decide if I disassemble and actually torque when the reaction rod gets here.
View attachment 780873

That’s convincing. Appreciate the response.
 

KyleR1985

WKR
Joined
Jul 28, 2019
Messages
493
Fantastic. One shot to get roughly on target. Shots 2-6 are in the 5 shot group. Then made a vertical adjustment and shot the bull on shot 7. Took it to 425 and hit a gong dead center for shot 8 and then went to 571 and shot two shots both on the gong for 9 and 10. Using a molinator for a front rest on hand guard and jellyfish for rear.
Now to decide if I disassemble and actually torque when the reaction rod gets here.
View attachment 780873

This is with this barrel?


What ammo?
 

gtriple

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On another topic. What the heck are the extra o rings for in the package with my new solo 300 upper? They are in a baggie with a sticker. No instructions
I had the same reaction when I first got mine. I was like.... where could I possibly have missed installing 3 o-rings!?
 
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This is with this barrel?


What ammo?

No the 5.56 barrel you linked is the barrel I weighed back a page slightly lighter than the Shaw.
The barrel I shot the group with is a 6 ARC 16” parkerized M4, 1:8 mid length gas. It weighs 24 oz
Ammo was Hornady match 108 eldm. The 103 eldx shot as well for 4 shots, it rushed one and it opened the group some.
 
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Another questions since this thread has most of the info on Ultralight and the various parts options.

TN arms carbon lower. FarrowTech butt and A2 buffer. I ordered the tap from farrow tech for the rear takedown retention pin hole. Tap is 4-40 and almost slides right in the hole without resistance. Screw doesn’t touch a thing.
Thinking either a 3mmx0.5 tap and screw or 6-32 tap and screw. Currently have an end plate on but it’s 0.5 oz and I would prefer more buffer thread in the lower.

Anyone done this on the carbon and know the size?
 

gtriple

WKR
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Dec 15, 2021
Messages
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Location
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Another questions since this thread has most of the info on Ultralight and the various parts options.

TN arms carbon lower. FarrowTech butt and A2 buffer. I ordered the tap from farrow tech for the rear takedown retention pin hole. Tap is 4-40 and almost slides right in the hole without resistance. Screw doesn’t touch a thing.
Thinking either a 3mmx0.5 tap and screw or 6-32 tap and screw. Currently have an end plate on but it’s 0.5 oz and I would prefer more buffer thread in the lower.

Anyone done this on the carbon and know the size?
The smoke composites end plate is stupid light
 
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