Ultralight reliable tikka rings?

On hight:

The T084s are 1.59" center bore to center optic.

For reference:
-UM lows are 1.65" center bore to center optic.
-Area 419 20 MOA rail and NF UL lows are 1.69" center bore to center optic.
-Area 419 20 MOA rail and NF UL mediums are 1.81" center bore to center optic.
 
On hight:

The T084s are 1.59" center bore to center optic.

For reference:
-UM lows are 1.65" center bore to center optic.
-Area 419 20 MOA rail and NF UL lows are 1.69" center bore to center optic.
-Area 419 20 MOA rail and NF UL mediums are 1.81" center bore to center optic.
Savage! Thanks. T084’s otw.
 
Opened up the TO84’s today. The recoil pin is a chunky roll-pin that does not even come close to fitting in the two smaller recoil pin holes on the t3x action. Yet it also seems awfully small to go in the giant “hot tub” shaped recoil lug recess. Are folks just putting it in the recess and sliding it forward?

Are you all just leaving your threaded rail holes open? Ive long since lost the the little plastic plugs that came in those holes. No biggie, just seemed like a good way to get grit or snow inside.

@Formidilosus
 
Opened up the TO84’s today. The recoil pin is a chunky roll-pin that does not even come
close to fitting in the two smaller recoil pin holes on the t3x action. Yet it also seems awfully small to go in the giant “hot tub” shaped recoil lug recess. Are folks just putting it in the recess and sliding it forward?

Are you all just leaving your threaded rail holes open? Ive long since lost the the little
Plastic olugs that came in those holes. No biggie, just seemed like a good way to get grit or snow inside.
I have stainless steel grub screws in mine.
 
Opened up the TO84’s today. The recoil pin is a chunky roll-pin that does not even come close to fitting in the two smaller recoil pin holes on the t3x action. Yet it also seems awfully small to go in the giant “hot tub” shaped recoil lug recess. Are folks just putting it in the recess and sliding it forward?

Are you all just leaving your threaded rail holes open? Ive long since lost the the little plastic plugs that came in those holes. No biggie, just seemed like a good way to get grit or snow inside.

@Formidilosus


Put the pin in the ring, then slide the pin all the way forward in the large oval shaped recess, tighten.
 
@Macintosh Ive also been weighing this exact same question and still going back and forth between Sportsmatch and the Hawkins for my 6CM build. Curious if anyone including @Formidilosus has any guidance as to the ability of these Hawkins rings to maintain zero and being no fuss as the Sportsmatch rings have been for me in the past.
 
@Macintosh Ive also been weighing this exact same question and still going back and forth between Sportsmatch and the Hawkins for my 6CM build. Curious if anyone including @Formidilosus has any guidance as to the ability of these Hawkins rings to maintain zero and being no fuss as the Sportsmatch rings have been for me in the past.

Rings that are screwed onto the action are never as durable or reliable as when mounted directly to the rail.
 
Rings that are screwed onto the action are never as durable or reliable as when mounted directly to the rail.
I have Sportsmatch on three Tikka's without issues and I believe you but in my brain that doesn't make sense that clamping power beats two piece of metal screwed together!? Is it a function of the size of the screws?
 
I have Sportsmatch on three Tikka's without issues and I believe you but in my brain that doesn't make sense that clamping power beats two piece of metal screwed together!? Is it a function of the size of the screws?

You believe two tiny 6x48 screws are stronger than a clamp? Not only that, what keeps the base from rotating or moving on them?
 
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