Tuning your bow

[WesternBounty]

I know YouTube is a great resource but just like all social media outlets there is some good and bad. I would like to tune my bow myself and don't really know where to start anyone have any good resources they would recommend?

I am not hunting archery this year, unfortunately just didn't get around to shooting much and was kinda frustrated with archery after my last season, however, I am dusting myself off and getting right back to it. I want to do things right this time around. Just wanted to clarify I will not be hunting with it in case that was anyone's concern. Thanks.


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[Jay03]

If you have a pro shop nearby that you trust they might be able to help sort through some of the info out there. Unfortunately some pro shops can be as bad as youtube or archerytalk with the good and bad info. When I started out doing my own tuning and setup I researched and googled questions that I had and started to watch for certain peoples advice over time and getting to trust info coming from more reputable posters on certain websites. Or if something was repeated several times I had a good idea that it may be a common or correct way to do it. It will take some time to kinda get the hang of what info to trust and what to forget. If a youtube channel is all about archery and bow tuning and reviews with lots of videos I might be more inclined to listen to what they have to say vs an individual who made one tuning video with a 5 year old cell phone as the camera and crappy editing you know.

Archery can be extremely frustrating but don't let it take your head out of the game. Learn and move on, it will come together one day and be an unforgettable experience.

Also this site has some excellent knowledgeable members who would love to answer your questions. So ask here often and everyone will be glad to help.

 

[Jay03]

Quick story about being ready to hunt. Just two nights ago I was at a 3D range that has a small bow shop at its location and went inside to pay to shoot. At the counter was a couple with some older bows and mixed unmatched arrows in their case and as I was standing behind them the lady speaks up and says to the owner "we haven't touched our bows in two years", and then the guy says "how many arrows do I need and I guess broadheads also because those don't go where the regular points do so I lost all those". Then both of them started saying how they needed to get all this set up and ready. The owner was quiet for a minute and asked the couple if they were planning on bow hunting this year. They said yes they were!!!! The Oregon Archery season started TODAY! I paid and left to go shoot because I didn't even want to hear how that played out.

So hey at least you touched your bow last year. haha

 

[WesternBounty]

If you have a pro shop nearby that you trust they might be able to help sort through some of the info out there. Unfortunately some pro shops can be as bad as youtube or archerytalk with the good and bad info. When I started out doing my own tuning and setup I researched and googled questions that I had and started to watch for certain peoples advice over time and getting to trust info coming from more reputable posters on certain websites. Or if something was repeated several times I had a good idea that it may be a common or correct way to do it. It will take some time to kinda get the hang of what info to trust and what to forget. If a youtube channel is all about archery and bow tuning and reviews with lots of videos I might be more inclined to listen to what they have to say vs an individual who made one tuning video with a 5 year old cell phone as the camera and crappy editing you know.

Archery can be extremely frustrating but don't let it take your head out of the game. Learn and move on, it will come together one day and be an unforgettable experience.

Also this site has some excellent knowledgeable members who would love to answer your questions. So ask here often and everyone will be glad to help.

Thanks for the response, I will keep that all in mind I really appreciate it!

Last archery season I hit a bull high shoulder- he lived and will be ok but it was just a super sucky feeling that I wounded the elk. I had practiced so hard all year long for that to happen o felt, so it was hard to want to pick my bow back up. But those things happen, and I want to do my best to make sure it doesn't happen again but I do enjoy archery so gotta dust myself off and get back at it!


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[roadrunner]

Also, don't get frustrated when you seem to be chasing your tail and nothing you do seems to work. Likely, you are rushing your shots the more you tweek, the worst it gets. Sometimes you need to step away, rest and regroup, then go back and tackle it again if needed.

When your bow's measurements are in spec, it's likely you (the shooter) and very little adjustment is needed.

I am currently guilty of chasing my tail...

Disclaimer: the above post is meant to be all inclusive to any reader. The word 'you' is used as a generality.

 

[Dameon]

For someone just getting started, I would recommend downloading a copy of the Nuts and Bolts of Archery from the stickie on ArcheryTalk if you just want something to read. Otherwise, invest in a good bow press and build a draw board. Once you learn to time cams, set draw length, and yoke tune (for bows that have yokes), you'll be all set. If you run into any problems, just post them here as they come and one of us here can walk you through it.

The most important factor for tuning a bow is having good form or at least consistent form. You can have you draw length, centershot, and cams timed perfectly, but if you can not grip your bow or anchor the same every time, you will always be chasing your tail. So my number one recommendation before you invest in any more equipment is to invest in yourself. Practice, practice, practice.



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[Jay03]

Thanks for the response, I will keep that all in mind I really appreciate it!

Last archery season I hit a bull high shoulder- he lived and will be ok but it was just a super sucky feeling that I wounded the elk. I had practiced so hard all year long for that to happen o felt, so it was hard to want to pick my bow back up. But those things happen, and I want to do my best to make sure it doesn't happen again but I do enjoy archery so gotta dust myself off and get back at it!


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I will almost guarantee you that the most seasoned archers and hunters have all probably had something similar happen to them at one point or another. And it even happens with rifle hunters, way more than you would think. It sucks but don't let it sour you. At least you are trying to better yourself from the experience. Bow tuning and getting your setup dialed in is a key part and excuse me if you already do and know this but range estimation and shooting 3D will help big time as well. If you have a range finder carry it with you on hikes and guess yardage of things and range it to check yourself. 3D tournaments where range finders are not allowed are won and lost at estimating the range to the target. At that level all those shooters can shoot lights out all day but guessing a few yards off at a long distance target can be game over.

The biggest bull I ever would have taken got away from me after I took a off center straight on shot at less than 20 yards!!! We have all probably seen the youtube videos of those straight on heart shots that were near instant killers when executed properly. Well my shot was not. I was at full draw and thought the bull was pausing in his tracks so I went to take the shot and he was actually stepping down into the creek between us. The arrow hit high and to the outside in the shoulder blade. He wheeled and ran back into the timber behind some trees with my bright orange arrow sticking out of his high chest. It barely penetrated in one or two inches. I found it broke off a few hundred yards away. A few weeks later another bow hunter took that bull after calling it in and it had cows with it so I guess I didn't really phase it to much but still it made me sick and almost head home that trip. I ran into the guy that ended up getting it at the trailhead. I felt like a ding dong when I admitted that was my broadhead that he found in the shoulder blade. I had practiced and shot a lot of 3D that year and even won some money shooting the money dots at some of the shoots. Live and learn. I don't think I would attempt that shot again even though I have seen it work wonders for others. Well I am rambling but you get the idea. What bow are you shooting that you are wanting to do some tuning on?

 

[mfllood3800]

To tune it yourself, you will need some bow equipment.
Draw Board, Levels, Bow Vise, Bow Press etc... All tend to get pricey.
John Dudley on you tube is a good resource for info.

A good bow shop is priceless. A sketchy bow shop is a hindrance.
Forums too can be a problem.

Bows are all unique and can time different.
Arrow/spine/fletching can be mixed into the tuning part as well. I have seen paper tuning never turn out well, simply cause of 1 bad arrow being used.

I generally start with a good known arrow.

Set my rest for center shot up and down, in and out, based of the Berger Button hole or line for PSE bows.

Then the D loop , making sure the arrow is level.

Then I set my sight so peep and sight housing are identical circumference
and, make sure all 3 axis are correct

I will then do the following:

Make sure my cam tuning is on (not relying on marks, but on utilizing my draw board and sync cams to cable physically)

Then I paper tune

Then walk back tune

Then I sight my pins to 30,40,50,60,70

I watch my arrow flight for fish tailing or other irregularities

I weigh each arrow and try to get it with in 2-3 grains each.
I verify spine indexing as I fletch them
I make sure my fixed blade broadhead blades align with my fletching

This is basic outline for me.
Others bare shaft tune as well.

I used key words for you to google so you can read up on them at leisure.
It is fun to do your own set up- enjoy.

 

[Beendare]

Some good advice^^

I would add; each bow has its own idiosyncrasies...so a Mathews is going to be a different than a Hoyt....same essential ideas but different processes

once you learn what those are....tuning is a piece of cake.

 

[WesternBounty]

So hey at least you touched your bow last year. haha

That is true but oh my goodness! That is terrible!! Where are peoples ethics! I am hunting this year but using my rifle, I just knew without handling it for a while it just wasn't ethical. Plus I ain't out to wound anything!


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[WesternBounty]

What bow are you shooting that you are wanting to do some tuning on?

It's an elite spirit.


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[WesternBounty]

To tune it yourself, you will need some bow equipment.
Draw Board, Levels, Bow Vise, Bow Press etc... All tend to get pricey.
John Dudley on you tube is a good resource for info.

A good bow shop is priceless. A sketchy bow shop is a hindrance.
Forums too can be a problem.

Bows are all unique and can time different.
Arrow/spine/fletching can be mixed into the tuning part as well. I have seen paper tuning never turn out well, simply cause of 1 bad arrow being used.

I generally start with a good known arrow.

Set my rest for center shot up and down, in and out, based of the Berger Button hole or line for PSE bows.

Then the D loop , making sure the arrow is level.

Then I set my sight so peep and sight housing are identical circumference
and, make sure all 3 axis are correct

I will then do the following:

Make sure my cam tuning is on (not relying on marks, but on utilizing my draw board and sync cams to cable physically)

Then I paper tune

Then walk back tune

Then I sight my pins to 30,40,50,60,70

I watch my arrow flight for fish tailing or other irregularities

I weigh each arrow and try to get it with in 2-3 grains each.
I verify spine indexing as I fletch them
I make sure my fixed blade broadhead blades align with my fletching

This is basic outline for me.
Others bare shaft tune as well.

I used key words for you to google so you can read up on them at leisure.
It is fun to do your own set up- enjoy.

Thank you for the wealth of knowledge and advice! Lots of researching is what I'll be doing


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[Jay03]

I have a pile of elite bows. I've owned 6 now. There's a thread on Archery talk about setting up an Elite, I'll copy the text and post it here for you. It was a great resource for me when I started doing my own work. I have an Energy 32 which is pretty similar to the spirit.

 

[WesternBounty]

I have a pile of elite bows. I've owned 6 now. There's a thread on Archery talk about setting up an Elite, I'll copy the text and post it here for you. It was a great resource for me when I started doing my own work. I have an Energy 32 which is pretty similar to the spirit.

Thank you much that would be awesome!


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[Jay03]

Here' some I lifted from AT. There's another one I will find and add also.

Owning 5 Elites now within my household, I have gotten pretty decent at tuning these bows. I have all of the tools to do this work at home and enjoy tinkering with it. From my experience plus the knowledge I have gained here, I figured it would be best to put everything in one place in a step-by-step format. I made this on a word document and pasted it here. Please feel free to add your suggestions or clarify any mistakes I might have made.
Elite Tuning Guide (2 track binary cam system)

- Max both limbs out to start

- Sync cams using inside cable and timing dots on cams
o A full twist/untwist of the cable will move cams by about one dot
o If bottom cam needs to be moved, twist/untwist outer post on top cam
o Twist/untwist based on where the draw length needs to be
-If it is short twist the bottom cable, if it is long untwist the top cable
o Bow can be drawn vertically and a plumb line used to line up both cam axels

- Time cams to get proper draw weight/draw length
o Should hit peak draw weight about 13” into draw cycle for Energy series
 -Most Elites will peak 1-4 pounds over listed peak weight
o Adding twists to the cables will increase draw weight and draw length
o Twist/untwist ratio should be 3 turns to cables and one turn to string
o If draw weight is good but draw length is not, twist/untwist the string
o When the above is done properly, the ATA and BH should be very close to spec

- Set draw stops to hit the limbs at the exact same time
o Set top draw stop where you want it to be, leave bottom draw stop loose
o Draw bow in draw board to where the top draw stop is just hitting the limb
o Set bottom draw stop to the same position and tighten

- Set rest height and center shot
o Arrow splitting Berger hole
-E35 set bottom of arrow to split Berger hole
o Nock 90* angle with the string
o ¾”-7/8” center shot, 13/16” optimal

- Paper tune a fletched arrow (6’ to 9’)
o Fix vertical first
 -Tail high, move nock point up
 -Tail low, move nock point down
• Reset peep height with each move of nock point
o Fix horizontal next
 -Tail left, move cable guard toward arrow
 -Tail right, move cable guard away from arrow
 -Shim cams in direction of the tear
 -Move rest in opposite direction of tear while staying within center shot

- Bareshaft tune at 10, 20, and 30 yards
o For left/right, move rest in small increments
 -Move in direction of BS or move the fletched arrows to the BS
o For up/down, move rest in small increments
 -Move in direction of fletched arrows or move BS to fletched

 

[Jay03]

Here's another one to get you started.

Binary cams are easy.

I've noticed several threads where folks are asking tuning questions or asking where to send their bow to for tuning.

I lifted this from the Elite forum and it's from Rgarbarino: Elite Archery - Makes the World's Most Shootable Bows: Option 6, Option 7, Revol, Tempo, Emerge, Impression, Victory, Victory 37, Impulse 31, Impulse 34, Energy 35

This will get your Elite shooting lights out. There are a few other tricks for more or less cam rollover or where you want to split the draw length specs, but this will certainly get 95% out of your bow.
To tune an Elite correctly you will need a draw board with a turnbuckle for fine tuning the draw stops and a weight scale to set draw weight. The most important specs when tuning an Elite are draw weight and draw length. Axle to axle and brace height should fall into spec when the draw weight and draw length are correct but remember that every spec has a + or - tolerance so it may vary a little. If the ATA spec is 33.5 it could still be correct if it's + or - 1/8 inch.

Let’s assume the string and cables are starting at the correct lengths and have not been all twisted/untwisted all out of whack. If they are out of spec I'll mention how to get them to the right length at the end.

If you have a cam on your Elite bow that references a timing hole on the cam and what distance it should be from the limb you can pretty much ignore this hole. It's only a reference mark, both holes may not be in the exact same position top and bottom and there is a + and - tolerance here too. I never measure this distance. If you want to you can and as long as it's close to the spec listed you will be fine.

You want to use the timing dots along the outer edge of the cam and set your timing by where the inside cable crosses these dots. You want the top and bottom cam to have the exact same timing dot in the exact same location where the cable crosses these timing dots. There is no specific dot you need to be on. If your draw length and draw weight are correct and the cams are in sync then it doesn't matter which dot you are hitting. There have been videos on youtube about Elite tuning that say to hit a specific dot. It's bunk because different draw lengths and different draw weights will hit different dots.

The first thing you want to do when tuning an Elite is sync the cams. So, get your bow on a draw board and draw it back until the stops are just touching the limbs. Don't crank it back so the stops are pulling back hard into the limbs, just barely touching. This is where the turnbuckle comes into play. I draw my bow back until there is about a 1/8" gap between the stop and the limb. Then I'll use the turnbuckle to fine tune the stop so it just touches. At this point I also like to leave the lower stop loose but have the top stop maxed all the way out. Look at the timing dots to see of the inner cable is hitting the same place top and bottom. If it is then you are synced and can move on to setting the stops to hit the limbs at the same time. I'll go over this later. If your cables are not crossing the exact same dots top and bottom then you need to twist or untwist the cable to get them in sync. If you need to move the top cam you twist/untwist the cable that is attached to the outer post (the one easiest to get to) on the bottom cam. If you need to move the bottom cam you twist/untwist the cable that is attached to the outer post (the one easiest to get to) on the top cam. The Elite cam system is a slaved system so any move you make to one cam will also slightly affect the other cam. You are looking for the perfect balance that gets the top and bottom cam in the exact same position. Keep making small adjustments to whichever cable you need to twist/untwist until the cams are in sync. A half twist at a time will get you there. I full twist/untwist will move the cable approx. a half dot. You are looking for the cables to hit the EXACT same spot top and bottom. If you make a move and it goes in the wrong direction, just twist/untwist the opposite of what you just did. Sometimes it helps to have a note pad to write down every move you make so you have a history of what you did.

So let's say you now have your cams in perfect sync. The next thing to do is set your draw weight and draw length. This is where you need a scale to use with your draw board. Put the bow on the draw board, hook the scale to the D-loop and the winch of the draw board to the scale. Crank it back and watch the scale to see what the peak weight is. You want to see the peak as you are drawing, if you stop drawing to look at weight you will get a lower reading. You don't want to check peak weight when the bow is static. You should also hit the peak weight about 6 to 6 1/2" into the draw cycle. This will also help tell you if you are timed/synced. Most Elite bows will peak about 1-4 pounds over the rated draw weight. So, if you have a 60# bow you should try and hit a peak draw weight of about 61-64#'s when your draw length is also correct. If your draw weight is low you want to add the same number of twists to BOTH cables to keep the cams in sync. ADDING twists will increase draw weight and increase draw length, REMOVING twists will decrease draw weight and decrease draw length. As a general rule I keep a twist/untwist ratio of about 3 to 1 on the strings and cable. So, for every 3 twists I put in the cables, I will put 1 twist in the string. For every 3 untwists I take out of the cables, I will take 1 untwist on the string. Once you hit the peak draw weight you want to measure the draw length and see where you are. If the strings/cables were the correct length to begin with then the draw length should be very close if not perfect. Some bows may run a little long in the draw by 1/8 to 3/8", not a huge deal. This is where you have to play with both the cables and the string at the same time to try and achieve the perfect balance of draw weight and draw length. If the draw weight is good but the draw length is a little off you can twist/untwist just the string. Every move you make either to the cables or string will have an effect on draw weight and draw length, you are looking for a good balance. To measure draw length, I measure from the deepest part of the grip to the string at full draw and add 1.75". Always double check cam sync with every move you make and adjust if necessary to keep them in perfect time.

Now you have your peak draw weight set and your draw length is correct. You want to set your draw stops so they hit the limbs at exactly the same time. Because there may be slight variances in limbs the stops may not be in exactly the same location on the cams. That's not what's important anyway as long as they hit at the EXACT same time. Here's how I do it. On the top cam I put the stop all the way out to the maxed position and tighten it down. On the bottom cam I put the stop in but leave it loose. Go back to the draw board and draw the bow back to where the top stop is almost hitting the top limb. Now use the turnbuckle to bring the top stop to where it just touches the top limb. Go to the bottom stop and bring it into position to where it is also just touching the bottom limb. Tighten it down and you now have a top and bottom draw stop that are hitting both limbs at EXACTLY the same time. Don't worry if they are not in the same position in the draw stop slot.

To set cables/strings to spec length you need to measure them while under 100# of tension. There are many ways to do this so I won't go into too much detail. What you do is put the strings on a 1/4" post or hook and pull to 100# of tension. Measure from the outside of 1 post to the outside of the other post to get your measurement. If you are longer than spec then twist the cable/string to shorten it and re-measure. If you are short then untwist the cable/string to lengthen. String and cable lengths for all Elite bows can be found on the Elite webpage in the tech section.

 

[Jay03]

Ok so those are more about setup and initial string install. And obviously a press and drawboard are needed for that. If your bow is already set up and cams are timed then skip to tuning the arrows with the rest and d-loop if needed. For that the info is endless and sometimes overwhelming. Have patience and maybe write down changes you've made and take notes if that helps so you can track what works and what doesn't and undo the cahnge it if it made things worse.

 

[WesternBounty]

Thank you so much! Very helpful

 

[Gerard Marcaurele]

OP, I sent you a PM.