Tuning vs. super tuning?

[rhendrix]

Does anyone do anything more than walk back and paper tuning to their bow? Have you noticed a significant difference in accuracy? I ask because I've been looking into bare shaft tuning, yoke tuning, and tiller tuning. Not sure if the time and investment is necessary though, what are your thoughts?

 

[jmez]

I paper tune with the yokes. I set my rest dead center and arrow level. Then use the yokes to get a bullet hole with both bare and fletched shafts. My bare shafts then hit with my FP's out to 20 yards and fixed blade heads will hit with FP's as well.

There isn't any more time investment doing this than simply paper tuning or walkback tuning. You are just twisting yokes as apposed to moving the rest. I haven't done any tiller tuning.

If you don't have good, repeatable form bare shaft shooting will show you and you will struggle.

 

[quarbles]

french tune.

 

[ontarget7]

Set centershot to manufactures recommendation. For nock height on a binary or OD binary it should be nock level. Most single cams and hybrid cams you will be 1/16 to 1/8 nock height. Then at 10 yards take a bareshaft and a fletched arrow, make adjustments to your yoke as needed so your impact point is the same. The reason I say 10 yards, not 20, is do to grip. When your grip is not right you can possibly make adjustments to your yoke that may or may not be needed due to grip torque. Cams will need to have proper starting rotation and in synch. Before all of this, spine will need to be chosen accordingly to your specs, dynamic spine being the most important factor to consider. For the majority of your hunting bows today, tiller tuning is a waste of time IMO.

This will get you right where you need to be for a tune. You will just have to fine tune from there and adjust accordingly.

Shane

 

[bz_711]

Many would benefit by making sure they do a lot of shooting before they begin tuning. This time of year I think many want to tune their bow first to get ready for season...tuning is not nearly as effective until your form and grip are solid. And I don't mean you have to have perfect form or grip...just needs to be consistent/same from shot to shot.

Build the muscles up first...then tune! Good Luck!

 

[TJ]

I set everything to specs and start bare shaft tuning until I can get same point of impact out to 30 yds.

This sometimes takes several weekends to get right. I may tweak things for a while and then just shoot!

Come back next week and play around some more until everything is right. Hand torque can really screw things up if your not aware of it.

 

[justin davis]

Bare shaft yoke tune. Make sure broadheads are hitting with field points out to 80 yards

 

[jmez]

If you bare shaft through paper then the bare shafting at 10 yards and beyond will be a lot easier as you will be starting pretty close to where you need to be. Especially if you have never done this before.

 

[RockChucker30]

I don't do anything but broadhead tune. I've tried the others but its time consuming and often confusing. Broadhead tuning has been definitive for me.

 

[Manosteel]

For me it's:
Set to manf. Spec.
Set up Centre shot
Paper tune
Modified French tune
Broadhead tune

I shoot all year - during winter at least once a week and come spring nearly everyday I can
I check my tune every time I buy something new for the bow ( rest, sight or arrows etc..) or every few months or so or if my groups open up.

 

[J-Daddy]

The amount of tuning is gonna depend on the bow and the cam system on it....If your shooting a bow with a 2 track binary cam "Elite, New Breed, Athens, Obsession, etc..." then bare shaft tuning can be a pain because those bows are notorious for cam lean "nature of that cam system" and with no cable yokes there's not a ton you can do.
If you have a yoke system then bare shaft / yoke tuning is the way to go...That's the main reason I'm back to shooting Bowtechs now, I've got an Experience now and a Destroyer 340 on the way for a back up. IMHO the Bowtech Overdrive cam system is the most tunable out there since they have dual yokes.

 

[rhendrix]

J-daddy, I'm shooting Hoyt Vector turbo, how'd you tune yours?

 

[J-Daddy]

J-daddy, I'm shooting Hoyt Vector turbo, how'd you tune yours?

Just set the center shot on the rest in the center of the riser shelf and then yoke tune it after that and don't mess with the windage on the rest... Just make sure your arrows are stiff enough spined and it'll come together.
Yoke tuning has become more important in recent years in my opinion since more and more companies are going to roller guards and shorter AtoA length bows. Static roller guards like Hoyt uses do put alot of side load stress/torque on the cables & cams so that plays a big factor in yoke tuning a bow. The Flex guard system like Bowtech uses works a little better since it moves and allows the cables to come towards the center of the bow more at full draw, honestly I still prefer a cable guard rod & slide but they are starting to become a thing of the past... If I'm gonna shoot a roller guard bow I like the system Bowtech uses and PSE's new flex system as well.
My new Bowtech Experience is proving to be one of the most accurate short AtoA bows I've owned and I haven't even tuned on it yet.

 

[ontarget7]

Just set the center shot on the rest in the center of the riser shelf and then yoke tune it after that and don't mess with the windage on the rest... Just make sure your arrows are stiff enough spined and it'll come together.
Yoke tuning has become more important in recent years in my opinion since more and more companies are going to roller guards and shorter AtoA length bows. Static roller guards like Hoyt uses do put alot of side load stress/torque on the cables & cams so that plays a big factor in yoke tuning a bow. The Flex guard system like Bowtech uses works a little better since it moves and allows the cables to come towards the center of the bow more at full draw, honestly I still prefer a cable guard rod & slide but they are starting to become a thing of the past... If I'm gonna shoot a roller guard bow I like the system Bowtech uses and PSE's new flex system as well.
My new Bowtech Experience is proving to be one of the most accurate short AtoA bows I've owned and I haven't even tuned on it yet.

I really see no huge advantage from an accuracy standpoint. As long as you have a yoke 1 or 2 it doesn't really matter from my findings. They will both achieve equal results in arrow flight regardless if you have a static roller guard or a flex. It really comes down to the right tune and personal fit to the individual from there.

 

[J-Daddy]

I really see no huge advantage from an accuracy standpoint. As long as you have a yoke 1 or 2 it doesn't really matter from my findings. They will both achieve equal results in arrow flight regardless if you have a static roller guard or a flex. It really comes down to the right tune and personal fit to the individual from there.

I agree, you can make both types shoot equally well, for me it just seems like the flex type takes a little less tweaking to get on the money.

 

[garrickt]

I'm shooting a binary cam system. I paper tune to get my center shot then I just start shooting to different yardages. It's essentially the same as walk back tuning but I don't bother with setting up tape and specific marks on the target etc. I used to do this and would get so frustrated when things didn't work the way the were "supposed" to it took a lot of the enjoyment out of it.
I shoot with both eyes open and practice out to 90+ yds. This allows me to watch the arrow flight and take notice if anything funny is happening that I may need to tweak.
I am tuning, practicing and having fun in the same session. This also allows me to keep a consistent form with every shot because I am not distracted my the process of tuning, still throw a few bad arrows down range but since I started doing this my bow is performing better than it ever has and I am shooting the best I ever have. No chasing broadheads when I put them on either, they hit right with my field tips.

 

[OR Archer]

Not sure where the term "super tuning" came from but I hate that term. Probably an AT thing haha. Tuning is tuning period. Some people might just be more thorough than others but there's nothing "super" about that. No matter what method you choose to use you have to be happy with the results. If you aren't happy the confidence isn't going to be there when you pick up your bow.

What I do with my personal set up is similar to what others on here do. Start with the bow at factory spec. Next Ill set up my rest. When I do this I make sure that at full draw the center of the arrow is running through the center of the berger hole and that the arrow is running through the center of the shelf. Next Ill tie in my loop and start it at 1/8" nock high. Next Ill put it on the Hooter Shooter and check the cam timing if I'm running a dual or hybrid cam. If its a single cam Ill set the cam starting position. Once I get the timing set to where I want it I will mark my cams so I have some good timing marks to reference. Next Ill paper tune it making small adjustments to the loop height, center shot, and or yoke until its shooting a nice hole through paper. Once I get it all sighted in Ill then shoot my broadheads and make any fine rest adjustments I may need to get my broadheads to impact with my field tips. Usually I don't have to move anything but I check it anyways.

There's a lot of different methods to get the same results. Best thing I have found in the past when playing with different tuning methods is to take good notes and measurements on what you did. Measure everything out before you start so that if things don't work out you can put it back to your original starting point and begin again.

 

[Manosteel]

I always wondered about the term "Super Tune". I always followed my way and figured that when my fp and BH where hitting the same place past at 60 yards I was good to go. I always wondered how much better would my arrows fly, if at all better? Never had issues with getting good penetration on elk and moose. Past 50 yards its pretty easy to see if you arrows are flying wonky and mine always seemed to fly like darts after tuning.

I mean I would twist my strings and yoke to factory specs or to get my bow to factory specs but never did any yoke tunning or tiler tuning as suggest here. It got me thinking then the GIF jumped on my shoulder telling me to try it and while talking to my wife over supper about it she says - "You can't fix stupid, trust me i've tried" and "you don't fix what ain't broke, so leave it alone" I just about choked on my food she said it so dead pan and in passing. lol but she is probably right.

 

[Coyote Commander]

Set bow to spec.
Paper tune. (coarse tune)
Broadhead tune. (fine tune)

Anything done in between paper tuning (rough adjustment) and broadhead tuning (fine adjustment) is a waste of time, IF the bow is in spec.


Some of those guys on AT have WAY to much time on their hands. "Oh I paper tune, bareshaft, walkback, french, than I broadhead tune". I dont know why. They all just get you a little bit closer, the end all be all STILL being the broadhead tune.

 

[mt hunter22]

when people say they adjust the yoke or cams ,, what to adjust to fix what.. say i have binary cams put the rest dead center put the arrow running through the berger hole and nock barely high.. but then i am getting a right tear or left tear or whatever,, what do you adjust ,also say you are shooting your broadheads but again they arent hitting with the field points.. again what do you adjust to fix what problem..also on my obsession at rest the cams are good but when i draw they both have slight lean,, both leaning the same amount and the same direction.. can and should i worry about fixing this?