Tuning after shortened draw length

[westonhoma]

Took a half inch off my draw length. Feel much better with my hinge now. Adjusted peep , all set there.

Shot through paper for the first time since. Not a true bare shaft, left on wrap and stripped off veins.

Was a touch knock high. Enough to make an adjustment. Does this make sense with shortening up draw length 1/2” ? Or would there be no difference with tears from changing draw length typically ? Just curious as I want to expand my archery knowledge. Thanks in advance

 

[Idaboy]

What bow are you shooting, and cam?..... YES, adjusting DL depending on cam can change vertical nock travel. My old hoyt had major issues with vert nock travel depending on what DL (old carbon defiant). My current RX3 ultra has different slots to adjust DL, cam rolls differently and still have to adjust cam timing and/or nock pt (or rest height) to tune...in general would rec adjusting cam timing and nock pt before rest height, if things minor get out of tune, string stretch etc then a tiny tweak in rest height without having to redo everything. On my Hoyt its not uncommon that I get best tune when cams hit slightly not together ( maybe a credit card gap if that). Have also fiddled with limb bolts ever so slightly to get best vert nock travel....I generally try to fix vert nock travel first, then tackle left/right....hope that helps

 

[4th_point]

Cable-driven arrow rest?

If so, I would look into the timing of the rest.

 

[Sbird2019]

The simplest rule of thumb with compound bows is this:

If you change one thing, you’ve changed everything

So you’ll need to retune your bow, check you rest timing, and readjust your sight tape or pins

 

[3forks]

To the OP, I know you’re asking about tuning after shortening your draw length, but if you’re new to shooting a hinge and you feel like it’s hanging up - it’s usually not the draw length. If your bow was the correct draw length to begin with, shortening it by a 1/2 inch is a lot.

I’m sure you know what you’re doing, but I commented because it’s a pretty common sensation that guys new to a hinge (or even guys who feel like their shot isn’t breaking) don’t need to shorten their draw length to get their shot to break. Lots of guys new to hinges or who don’t like hinges don’t expand - pull/push enough, and start leaning back which makes the hinge feel like it’s never going to break.

Just a thought in the event that it’s something you hadn’t considered.

 

[big44a4]

Changing your D loop length will change the tune. Yes will need to retune as another person said above.

 

[westonhoma]

To the OP, I know you’re asking about tuning after shortening your draw length, but if you’re new to shooting a hinge and you feel like it’s hanging up - it’s usually not the draw length. If your bow was the correct draw length to begin with, shortening it by a 1/2 inch is a lot.

I’m sure you know what you’re doing, but I commented because it’s a pretty common sensation that guys new to a hinge (or even guys who feel like their shot isn’t breaking) don’t need to shorten their draw length to get their shot to break. Lots of guys new to hinges or who don’t like hinges don’t expand - pull/push enough, and start leaning back which makes the hinge feel like it’s never going to break.

Just a thought in the event that it’s something you hadn’t considered.

OKay this is very interesting thanks for pointing it out. I was always wrist rocket.. then went to B3 ranger. Never changed draw length there but then this past year i started using the Trubal HBC flex hinge. I really like it but i always did feel like i was leaning back a touch and was working too hard to get it to break. I feel like maybe the length of the hinge from hand to the hook was a different length between the two?

Either way , alls i know if I am shooting muchhh more comfortably. Maybe it was a touch long to begin with all along. Or maybe it is my form, idk but thanks for points this out. Interesting. Again tho i will say i do feel good with it now

 

[westonhoma]

Cable-driven arrow rest?

If so, I would look into the timing of the rest.

Yes QAD drop away. I can check that. Just video myself during a shot?

 

[westonhoma]

The simplest rule of thumb with compound bows is this:

If you change one thing, you’ve changed everything

So you’ll need to retune your bow, check you rest timing, and readjust your sight tape or pins

Yeah for sure no doubt. I know i gotta re adjust pins and sight tape (ughhh)

 

[westonhoma]

What bow are you shooting, and cam?..... YES, adjusting DL depending on cam can change vertical nock travel. My old hoyt had major issues with vert nock travel depending on what DL (old carbon defiant). My current RX3 ultra has different slots to adjust DL, cam rolls differently and still have to adjust cam timing and/or nock pt (or rest height) to tune...in general would rec adjusting cam timing and nock pt before rest height, if things minor get out of tune, string stretch etc then a tiny tweak in rest height without having to redo everything. On my Hoyt its not uncommon that I get best tune when cams hit slightly not together ( maybe a credit card gap if that). Have also fiddled with limb bolts ever so slightly to get best vert nock travel....I generally try to fix vert nock travel first, then tackle left/right....hope that helps

hoyt ventum pro 30 with the hbx pro cams.

I am going to play around again with it after work. To be totally transparent.. i got new strings put on (my bow shop did that since i dont have a press)

Then while i was there i had them shorten the draw length. Then obviously we had to re tie in my peep.

So now i am home knowing this have changed and am shooting through paper with wrap on and stripped off veins.

I will start with checking cam timing first and go from there. How could the nock point change with a change in draw length? I dont see how the nock point could be different if the draw length is getting shorter/or longer. I am no way an expert in any of this , just for my own knowledge and curiousty is why i am asking