Trying to find load data but I can never find the exact bullet/powder combo?

[Elite]

I am fairly new to reloading so this might be a rookie question. When I try to find some load data I can never find the exact bullet I am shooting and powder combo. So I am wondering what everyone does in this situation? For example I have found a load for nosler ballistic tip in 140 but I am shooting accubonds in 140. Do I have to start at the min charge? I see some posts where guys just start at the max load with out issues


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[sveltri]

No never start at max. What cartridge?

 

[Elite]

No never start at max. What cartridge?

30-06 and 7mm-08


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[sveltri]

7mm-08 https://www.nosler.com/7mm-08-remington

Nosler has quite a bit of data available online, you need to get a reloading manual and read it or find a mentor.

 

[willfrye027]

Check out Forms thread on simple reloading. Lots of good info there.

Start at the minimum and work up.

Unless you have a ton of bullets already, might be better off searching for some “proven” combos and not reinvent the wheel

 

[A382DWDZQ]

I usually start with the bullet I want to use, then plug that into Quickload to figure out what powder I want to use out of what I have, then cross check with published load data to make sure that my numbers are not wildly off. Sometimes that ends up in line with bullet manufacturers preferred loads and sometimes not.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

If you have a load for the ballistic tips and are switching to accubonds of the same weight, just swap them.

 

[menhaden_man]

Reloading Data Center – Hodgdon Reloading Data Center

hodgdonreloading.com

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Nosler used to stick a little load data card in the bullet box. I've had good luck with their most accurate load recipe on the card

 

[EdP]

As you can see from the Nosler page linked above, the data is the same for the AB, BT, and CTBS. In general what matters is the bullet weight and powder charge, not the specific bullet. You will even see in some manuals a note that data for one bullet weight is applicable to another bullet that is just a couple of grains different. If you do what you should be doing, that is starting low and working up, this is perfectly safe. I have noticed that data for the Swift A-frame, a VERY tough bullet for dangerous game, may be listed separately with slightly lower charges than other bullets of the same weight. Even so, the differences are not such that it would cause an issue if you start low and work up. Never start at or near max and consult more than one official source when selecting a starting load.

 

[DaveCB]

or you can call Nosler and talk to a reloading tech, see if they have tested that combination. you might get lucky.

Contact Us

Explore the world of Nosler, renowned for crafting the finest bullets, ammunition, rifles, and brass. Discover our extensive lineup, including Partition, AccuBond, E-Tip, Ballistic Tip, Custom Competition, and more. Experience superior quality and performance with Nosler products.

www.nosler.com

 

[Mike D Texas]

If you are wanting to easily develop a load with a specific bullet and a specific powder you are going to have to go to a softy ware based solution rather than a load manual.

You can get there with a book but software will cut down the process.


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[SDHNTR]

This frustrated me to no end when I first started reloading. To some extent, it still does. The lack of standardization and directly usable reference material is really aggravating. Once I got more experienced, I understood why this is the case. There are just far too many variables with every single element of the reloading and shooting process. The bottom line, you just have to use some common sense. Start low and gradually work up, always. Never attempt shortcuts.

 

[seand]

Book load data is reference data, folks miss this. Its developed in a different gun, its hardly ever going to match your rifle and mix of components exactly. “Min” or “max” charge weights listed in the book are not likely to match your rifle.

If you understand that, this gets real easy. Chrono your loads. With the same powder, bullet weight, and barrel length as the reference data, when you hit the max velocity in the book, you are going to be really close to max pressure. Closer than any other indicator available to most of us(unless you have pressure instruments), and closer than just reading max charge weights out of a book.

So just determine the velocity you want to run, adjust powder charge until you get there. Simple.

Or if you don’t chrono (or care), just pick a middle of the road listed charge weight for the BT and shoot it.

 

[josebigsky]

You’ve received some very good advice here. So now use or get a good manual and stay within parameters until you get some experience. Before loading to max powder charge be sure to google pics or videos that show exceeding max pressure. What you’re looking for is sticky or hard bolt lifting, ejector marks on the bottoms of brass, loose primer pockets, loose or knocked out primers when you open the bolt. Know what these are and look at your cases after firing. This will help you stay safe.

 

[Vern400]

I hoard loading data. And always keep the old books- you'll likely never get a replacement. I sometimes pick loads by comparing data from similar loads in powder and bullet makers data. Get a "load book" for your caliber.

Recently I was using shooters world powder. I found a 150 Hornady SST load and used it on a Sierra Game King 150. But rest assured I was at most a midrange load! And the bullet construction is fairly similar. DONT mix mono data!

I shoot a bolt gun, a design that's been long proven to damage primers and do bad things without being damaged. Gotta be more careful with gas guns, mini actions etc. But there's NO way I'd make a change without backing off a bit! A buddy of mine accidentally loaded a 300 blackout in a 5.56. it chambered and fired! So I've seen the ugly up close. He's ok but had to get some aluminum dug out of his arm.

If you redline your loads, even cooking a load in a hot barrel can bite you! But with good caution it's safe. I know someone who accidentally overcharged a 7mm PRC by 4 grains! Just fat fingered the electronic scale. Gun is ok and he is ok although pretty embarrassed. I would have feared blowing the gun. Dismissing pressure signs long term is real bad. Pistols are worst because it's possible to double charge. That will blow the gun with high likelihood.

You asking the question tells me you will be ok.

 

[chav0_12]

I've used data from Nosler, Horandy, Sierra, Berger, Barnes, Hodgdon...pretty much anywhere I could find it. Occasionally will it match with the bullet that I'm using. Sometimes (this may take some more experience), I've gone as far as comparing powder charges from one powder to another in a different cartridge with similar bullet weights to come up with a starting load. As there is no new data being published for a 7mm WSM, I've taken like data from a 6.8 Western using StaBall HD and Retumbo to compare them to get a starting load of StaBall HD for my 7mm WSM.

That being said, as someone mentioned earlier, bullet weight is the most important thing. Always start at starting loads and work your way up. You don't necessarily have to stop at max loads, especially if your COAL is longer than SAAMI specs as this will help free up some space to keep you under pressure. Always move slow when approaching and exceeding listed maximum charges, like .1- .2 grains at time. You can definitely use any 30-06 or 7mm-08 starting load with a very similar weight bullet and the same exact powder (don't switch H4350 with IMR4350). There is a ton of data available online; Nosler and Hodgdon offer some good stuff, you can also purchase a digital version of the Hornady manual as well. You can switch AccuBonds and BTs out for one another, might be smart to drop down 5-10% though just to be same and move back up when going from one to the other if you're close to max pressures.

I've loaded for both of those cartridges, if there's anything I could help with I'd be happy to.

 

[Elite]

I've used data from Nosler, Horandy, Sierra, Berger, Barnes, Hodgdon...pretty much anywhere I could find it. Occasionally will it match with the bullet that I'm using. Sometimes (this may take some more experience), I've gone as far as comparing powder charges from one powder to another in a different cartridge with similar bullet weights to come up with a starting load. As there is no new data being published for a 7mm WSM, I've taken like data from a 6.8 Western using StaBall HD and Retumbo to compare them to get a starting load of StaBall HD for my 7mm WSM.

That being said, as someone mentioned earlier, bullet weight is the most important thing. Always start at starting loads and work your way up. You don't necessarily have to stop at max loads, especially if your COAL is longer than SAAMI specs as this will help free up some space to keep you under pressure. Always move slow when approaching and exceeding listed maximum charges, like .1- .2 grains at time. You can definitely use any 30-06 or 7mm-08 starting load with a very similar weight bullet and the same exact powder (don't switch H4350 with IMR4350). There is a ton of data available online; Nosler and Hodgdon offer some good stuff, you can also purchase a digital version of the Hornady manual as well. You can switch AccuBonds and BTs out for one another, might be smart to drop down 5-10% though just to be same and move back up when going from one to the other if you're close to max pressures.

I've loaded for both of those cartridges, if there's anything I could help with I'd be happy to.

Thanks for the input and information! Any suggestions for the best powder for the 7mm-08?


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[chav0_12]

Thanks for the input and information! Any suggestions for the best powder for the 7mm-08?


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With the 140gr AccuBond/BTs?

I’ve had good luck with RL15, I don’t think that’s available. Some other powders I’d start with would be H4350, StaBall 6.5, Hybrid 100V, stuff around that burn rate. I’d start with H4350. StaBall 6.5 seems to be widely available and I’ll be trying some in a short barreled 7mm-08 with 120gr Hammer Hunters for my son in-law. In this rifle I’m handicapped by the short barrel and more speed is necessary, StaBall 6.5 seems to give the highest velocities.

 

[Elite]

With the 140gr AccuBond/BTs?

I’ve had good luck with RL15, I don’t think that’s available. Some other powders I’d start with would be H4350, StaBall 6.5, Hybrid 100V, stuff around that burn rate. I’d start with H4350. StaBall 6.5 seems to be widely available and I’ll be trying some in a short barreled 7mm-08 with 120gr Hammer Hunters for my son in-law. In this rifle I’m handicapped by the short barrel and more speed is necessary, StaBall 6.5 seems to give the highest velocities.

Thanks I have some staball already, I’ll give that a try


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