Traditional bow with long draw

[whoami-72]

Hello,

I'm big into compound archery and have a recurve as well. However, the recurve doesn't fit my 32" draw. Anyone know of a commercially available recurve that hits 32" without stacking like crazy. Eventually I want to build my own long bow but don't have a lot of good materials locally and want to learn on something relatively easy and cost effective prior to investing the time to build my own. Needs to be relatively cost effective since it won't be a long term bow. Also, primary purpose is elk/mule deer hunting with the potential of trying to hunt upland game.

 

[Montana Slim]

Toelke SS is a good one. I don't have one but have shot one... I do have a 68" Super D that I like a lot. My draw is 31.5-ish...

Your draw will likely be different with trad gear - just as a heads up

 

[Wilderlife]

Yeh, it's hard to say for sure but if you're drawing 32'' with a compound, that doesn't necessarily mean you'll be drawing the same with a trad bow. Having said that, it's probably safe to say you'll be drawing close to about 30.5-31 inches.

If you're looking into recurve bows you'll want to find something around 64 inches long if possible. My suggestion would be to find an ILF riser and get some long limbs for it. ILF is a big rabbit hole and not all things are created equal, but it's a good place for you to start as you can get components fairly easily.

This riser is affordable and gives you lots of options with length as it's 21 inches long.

Win & Win Black Elk 21" ILF Recurve Riser (Black)

Looking for a versatile ILF traditional bow? All the benefits of aluminum riser in a 21" package High quality wood grip +/- 5% weight range for limbs used with this bows tiller adjustment Easy lateral limb adjustment to perfectly align your string path Includes plastic rest pad Black finish...

lancasterarchery.com

Then you could look at some affordable limbs from Tradtech. Keep in mind, limbs may be marked a particular 'poundage' but the length of the riser will determine their true poundage.

TradTech Black Max 2.0 Glass/Wood ILF Recurve Limbs

Dual Hardrock Maple core with black glass for smooth drawing power The next generation of tournament quality limbs for the traditional archer and bowhunter Designed in USA, custom-made for TradTech by Win & Win ILF Hardware- international limb fitting for any ILF riser Traditional satin clear...

lancasterarchery.com

For example, these Tradtech limbs have specs on the website that say how long a bow would be with the limbs if the riser is 17 inches. Medium limbs on a 17 inch riser makes a 60 inch bow, which would be too short for you most likely, but with a 21 inch riser the bow would be 64 inches with the same Medium limbs, which is where you might need to start looking.

At the same time, limbs that might be 40# @ 28 inches on a 17 inch riser would actually be closer to about 36# @ 28 in a 21 inch riser - don't quote me on this but for every inch you gain with the riser, you lose a pound of draw weight, and it also works backwards when you talk about shorter risers.

Obviously with your long draw you'll pull more poundage than what is marked anyway, so a good place to start for you might be to get the 21 inch Win and Win black Elk riser, with some Medium Tradtech limbs that are marked at either 35# or 40#. That way, after you lose some poundage with the longer riser you'll get it back with your long draw, so you should be pulling somewhere between 35# and 40# on your fingers, which is a good place to start.

That's the extent of what I know about ILF as I only have one ILF rig myself.

 

[Rob5589]

21" riser and longs should work for 32"

 

[bisblue]

I pull 30+ and found a 62" heartland custom felt better for me than my 64", ILF bows (19" riser long limbs). Belly mounted 15" riser, so long working limbs...

ILF is a great way to get started and then shoot as much as you can get your hands on to see what you actually like.

Tradtalk, archery talk and Facebook groups like ilf bow hunters are great places to look. Limbs like black max are good starters.

Also John Mosier at Johns custom archery, carries everything designs his own risers and help me so much learning about traditional and tuning ILF bows. He's also a tall guy I would hesitate to look him up on Facebook or email him he could help you build a really great budget bow.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

Yeah, a longer bow should work fine, unless it was built poorly. Maybe something 64”+. I have a 30” draw, and I don’t have problems shooting a 56” bow.

 

[Recurve Man]

At one time i shot a 31" draw on Compound. I shoot 27.5 to 28 on my Widows. My bows are 58". Your recurve draw will definitely be different than compound. Dont get caught up on draw kength. Shoot some bows and find a good anchoring point. Who knows what draw you may shoot.

 

[whoami-72]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll have to do some more research on how trad archery works. I figured my DL would be different but after using a few "normal" recurves I realized I wasn't fitting the mold.

Where does everyone buy their arrows? The local shops pretty much cater only to compounds

 

[Hawkeye29]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll have to do some more research on how trad archery works. I figured my DL would be different but after using a few "normal" recurves I realized I wasn't fitting the mold.

Where does everyone buy their arrows? The local shops pretty much cater only to compounds

RMS gear has everything and they ship fast! As well as Lancaster and 3 rivers archery

 

[Rob5589]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll have to do some more research on how trad archery works. I figured my DL would be different but after using a few "normal" recurves I realized I wasn't fitting the mold.

Where does everyone buy their arrows? The local shops pretty much cater only to compounds

With a true 32" draw you'll need some long shafts. Generally, "traditional" carbons are heavier per inch but a carbon arrow is a carbon arrow. Aluminum is still an option, too. I order mine from Eders, Lancaster, or a local shop.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

Where does everyone buy their arrows? The local shops pretty much cater only to compounds

The Footed Shaft is my go-to. 3 Rivers after that. Compound arrows will work fine for trad too as long as you can get the spine and tune you want.

 

[oldgoat]

Depending on what kind of release you used with your compound and your form, there really shouldn't be much if any difference in your draw length, unless you over bow yourself or under total bow length and design yourself to the point you can't get in full extension/alignment because the bow is stacking. A good go to arrow for you will be the Black Eagle Instinct, 34"! There's a guy at our club that has a 32" draw, pretty sure he's shooting a 19" Satori with XL limbs. Buy a good riser, cheap light limbs and use the money you saved on the limbs to buy Tom Clums Solid Archery Mechanics online course. With your draw you are going to get performance from cheap limbs that guys with expensive limbs and normal draw lengths get! Get with rmsgear, they can hook you up with good stuff from end to end! I have a legitimate 31" draw, and it's problematic enough, glad I don't have 32", most guys just don't realize how much that dynamically changes arrow/gear needs!

 

[bisblue]

I have a legitimate 31" draw, and it's problematic enough, glad I don't have 32", most guys just don't realize how much that dynamically changes arrow/gear needs!

I got some great form advice this weekend and ended up moving my anchor back to allow better shoulder alignment and rotation. Went from 29.5(ish) to closer to 31" DL. Had to bump from a full length axis 340 to a full length axis 300 to get good bareshafts and keep 200 grains up front..
It also moved my gap from 33 yards to 40 with the 340s... Not complaining about having a long draw, I'm shooting better with a 630 grain 300 and close to my original 33 yard gap.

 

[oldgoat]

I got some great form advice this weekend on form and ended up moving my anchor back to allow better shoulder alignment and rotation. Went from 29.5(ish) to closer to 31" DL. Had to bump from a full length axis 340 to a full length axis 300 to get good bareshafts and keep 200 grains up front..
It also moved my gap from 33 yards to 40 with the 340s... Not complaining about having a long draw, I'm shooting better with a 630 grain 300 and close to my original 33 yard gap.

Getting to hang out with Tom Clum and the gang at rmsgear over the years, I've seen that scenario play out more than once, seen it with Tom himself when me and him went through a level 1 instructor course years ago, think he gained 1.5" draw length, I'm pretty sure that was the catalyst that really started him down the trail to get his Level 4 coaching credentials, meanwhile here I am here just a step above(sometimes) average shooter, lol!

 

[0815]

Keith Chastain from Wapiti Archery builds long draw bows. Custom.
Commercial a 17" ILF riser and XL limbs should give you a very smooth 64" bow

 

[Heat]

Kinda pricey for starting out but Toelke and BigJim both make excellent bows that you can draw 32" without stacking.

 

[2muchhp]

^^^ Javaman makes good ones as well.

 

[TaterTot]

I draw a legit 30.25" switching to 3 under got rid of my finger pinch problem on shorter bows. I strictly shoot bear takedown. I have enough limbs and risers to shoot anything from a 56" to 64" bow. I'll take the longer bow any day but if I'm stuck on the ground in a willow blind I'll grab my 56" setup in a heartbeat. I don't mind some stack at the end, let's me know I've hit the wall with my shoulders.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

I draw a legit 30.25" switching to 3 under got rid of my finger pinch problem on shorter bows. I strictly shoot bear takedown. I have enough limbs and risers to shoot anything from a 56" to 64" bow. I'll take the longer bow any day but if I'm stuck on the ground in a willow blind I'll grab my 56" setup in a heartbeat. I don't mind some stack at the end, let's me know I've hit the wall with my shoulders.

That’s funny, because I shoot the exact same setup as you with a 30” draw. I shoot the 56” bow 99% of the time and there’s no finger pinch issue with three under. It only stacks at the very tail end of my draw, which is fine because it’s just another cue to I know I’m there at full draw.

 

[Arcticmanak]

I draw 32+ and shoot a Black Widow PMA, 64". It draws smoothly with no stacking.