Trad bow equipment choices ?

Joined
Mar 26, 2022
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27
I have a Selway slide on quiver and I use it, but its not my favorite. I prefer my great northern quiver wrap on. What I do not like about the slide on quiver is that you have to take off your string to remove it...thats my main gripe and it is quite small.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
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5,398
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oregon coast
I've decided to go with the samick sage to start my trad journey. A lot of choices ahead and I've been researching old threads and you tube videos everyday. For starters the riser has holes I'm assuming are for a quiver that attaches to it? What are some of yalls opinions on what quiver might be the best choice?. Secondly can I but different manufacturers Limbs to put on the samick sage riser ? What about changing the string that comes with it to a better one or is the string provided a good one
It’s a great starter bow, just start light… lighter the better, I have shot mid 70’s compounds for years, started with a 40# sage, and I think that was a little too heavy and slowed my initial progress, you don’t want to fight the bow at all

Having some 30# limbs around will be handy in the future too when working on a specific piece of the shot, so you can really dial things in. A light bow will also not cover up a poor release like a heavier bow will. I think starting lighter will have people shooting better faster, and increasing draw weight faster because you can learn every aspect of the shot process without fighting the bow

Starting out with hunting draw weight is starting yourself off on the wrong foot
 

ozyclint

WKR
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Apr 27, 2012
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Queensland, Downunder
…those marksman quivers are pricey, gonna cost more than bow…
They are an investment. You can buy a Marksman bolt down at the start of your trad journey and use it on any bow you might use thereafter. With the same hood and gripper you can mount it on a bow via bow bolts, strap down brackets, his new one piece system that mounts to riser inserts like that on Bear bows or even turn it into a hip or side quiver. It is a modular system. No other quiver is as versatile.
A Marksman quiver that can be used on any bow using multiple mounting methods and that has a lifetime warranty likely represents a cost saving.
Plus the leather is weather proof. I've seen Selway's that look like a foreskin. Shrunken rawhide. Get what you pay for I guess.
 

Kentucky

WKR
Joined
Dec 15, 2019
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655
They are an investment. You can buy a Marksman bolt down at the start of your trad journey and use it on any bow you might use thereafter. With the same hood and gripper you can mount it on a bow via bow bolts, strap down brackets, his new one piece system that mounts to riser inserts like that on Bear bows or even turn it into a hip or side quiver. It is a modular system. No other quiver is as versatile.
A Marksman quiver that can be used on any bow using multiple mounting methods and that has a lifetime warranty likely represents a cost saving.
Plus the leather is weather proof. I've seen Selway's that look like a foreskin. Shrunken rawhide. Get what you pay for I guess.
I hear ya, believe me, no doubt that they are worth it… I’m just saying for a guy starting out buying a 75$ bow, to see if he likes trad, don’t need a 200$ quiver to see if he likes quivers…🤣
 

Dyoung46

FNG
Joined
Jul 20, 2023
Messages
15
I would second mountain muffler strings. Also, I the Nika C1 or C2 limbs would be a good choice in my opinion. I have shot the Junxing F166 (Galaxy Artemis) and it is a good feeling riser and the grip was nice on it. Another two options that are a bit more expensive would be the EXE scream or the Win and Win Black Elk Riser (you can actually find the Black Elk at Alternative Services for a pretty good price).
 
Joined
Jun 4, 2022
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76
For someone starting out or a veteran for that matter the Junxing F261 and a set of Samick R1 or R3's. limbs from Alternative for like $140 for the limbs imo is for the cost a really good combo . Those limbs alone here in the states sell for almost near double.
 

Beendare

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May 6, 2014
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Corripe cervisiam
For someone starting out or a veteran for that matter the Junxing F261 and a set of Samick R1 or R3's. limbs from Alternative for like $140 for the limbs imo is for the cost a really good combo . Those limbs alone here in the states sell for almost near double.
I’m not a huge fan of metal risers but that one is as good as anything, about the perfect weight for a riser and its cheap.
Pair that riser with some cheap name brand limbs; WNS, Samick, many others …..and that combo will outperform just about every custom for a fraction of the cost.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
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5,398
Location
oregon coast
Another fairly important piece of gear imo is a serving jig and a couple sizes of serving of your preferred flavor, I’m a big fan of halo, I like how it comes off the fingers more than others, but center serving wears out, it’s easy to replace and good to know how to do, nock fit is pretty critical with trad bows, so finding a nock you like, size of string (# of strands) and size and type of serving, is fairly important to keep constant unless completely changing arrows

I know it’s not very trad, but I find lighted nocks useful, especially bare shaft tuning, you can see the arrow flight well so you aren’t trying to just read the arrow because false weak/stiff is not unusual and can be frustrating to work through

The nice thing is, you tinker enough, and you’ll be able to guess really close initially on arrow length, spine, and point weight… you’ll just know

I find arrow length fairly important because I’m aiming off of it, so I try to keep it close with different builds… I also like keeping weight similar because your mind maps the trajectory, so familiarity is a benefit… tinkering a lot does you no favors and you will never find a magical arrow, so constantly changing is not a logical practice

I shoot trad vanes, because it’s wet here and feathers suck on the coast, but in the process of learning that I tried many different feathers and configurations, and my favorite was 4 fletch rayzrs, right helical clamp on the bitz, least favorite was 3 5”, they were always fickle unless they were in good shape and dry
 
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