total Arrow weight/set up

[Gman]

Need some advice from the archery experts. Just changed my arrow set up to a Eason FMJ 340 with a 100gr Stinger. Total arrow should come in around 470gr with a draw weight of 68-70lbs. Does this sound about right? I'm second guessing the broadhead weight, thinking I should have went 125 gr.

This set up is mainly for elk.

Thanks!

 

[danwattsmessick]

What is your draw length set at? Why are you second guessing yourself?

You would improve your FOC by switching to the heavier head, but you can also help with this by shooting lighter fletching without a wrap, shooting ultralight nocks, or installing weights behind your inserts... A higher FOC may lead to better arrow flight, especially with broadhead tipped arrows.

 

[Gman]

29 inch arrow. Why am I second guessing myself? Because that's what I do! Seriously, part of it is too much analysis and part of it is a hutning buddy I trust who said "you should have gone 125" but the dude at the archery shop who I respect thought 100gr was better. But your comments about increasing the arrow flight with a heavier head reinforces my thoughts that I should go 125. Also the fact that my bow is at the shop getting some other work done and the arrows haven't been cut yet I still have time to call back and change the set up.

Thanks for the reply, I do appreciate it.

 

[weaver]

The heavier point weight will weakin the spine of the arrow. I checked with eastons tune chart and you should be fine with either weight as far as tuning the bow. Like has been posted the heavier foc might improve broadhead flight. Good luck.

 

[Gman]

Thanks, so I'm confused, heavier will weaken the spine (that seems bad) but heavier will improve broadhead flight (good). Should I just find a way to get a better FOC by subtracting weight from the back end or inserting weights in the head as suggested originally? Will this prevent the spine from weakening? Sorry for the questions, I'm just not well versed in this stuff. I'm like Cole Trickle I just like to drive (shoot), don't know much about the mechanics.

 

[weaver]

Anytime you add weight to any end of the arrow it will weaken the spine (not necessarily bad). For an example if you had a 10lb weight on the point and grabbed it by the nock end and shook it up and down it would flex quite a bit vs if you had a light weight on the arrow it wouldnt flex much at all therefore it is stiffer. The effects of a heavier point on the spine are minimal unless you add a lot. It is a bigger factor if the arrow is right at the borderline between the next size stiffer or weaker arrow. You have the 340s next size stiffer would be the 300s next size weaker would be 400. With your setup you have a little leeway either way with your arrows. You should be just fine with either point weight. Hope some of this makes sense. Sorry if im confusing you more.

 

[danwattsmessick]

There is so much that really goes into building the perfect arrow...

You said that your arrow length will be 29 inches, but what is your actual draw length? Also, what style of rest are you shooting?

It could be such a thing that you can cut your arrow a little shorter than it is now to stiffen it back up after adding a heavier point.

As an example, I shoot a bow with a 28" draw length at 70#. I shoot a GoldTip 5575 cut to 26 1/4". Because my arrow is so short it is extremely stiff. I shoot a 100 grain broadhead with a 50 grain screw in brass weight behind the insert. This counters the extreme stiffness and bumps up my FOC.

 

[Gman]

Sorry meant draw length is 29 inches. Not sure the length the shop is going to cut the arrow. And this is all very helpful. Thank you.

Weaver - you made it very clear, thanks.

 

[hunting1]

I like mine around 450-grs total. I think it is the best compromise of speed and weight.

 

[Bowhuntr64]

That set up sounds perfect to me!