Torquing action screws?

[DawnPatrol]

Need some advice. I have a CZ 550 American in 30-06. I’ve had it for like 20 years, and pretty much shot it right out of the box with no problem.

I recently took the thing apart to have the barrel threaded for a suppressor.

In putting it back together, I realized a couple things. First, I don’t know what inch/lbs to torque the action screws. Any recommendations? I googled this and the consensus on the interwebs is 25-35 inch/lbs. But hardly anything definitive and nothing from CZ.

Second, it appears that there is a metal pillar in the front action screw? But not in the back. Wondering if that changes the answer, as it seems the recommendations say to go lighter on wood than on pillar beaded actions.

Finally, i wonder how much any of this matters—the longest shot I’d ever take would be like 400 yds on an elk (less on smaller animals).

Thanks for any help!

 

[TaperPin]

This seems informative

 

[35WhelenAI]

For my Mauser 98 action of my main hunting gun, which has two screws, I snug the front screw down, rapp the butt of the stock on a solid surface, then snug it down, for lack of a better term, good and tight. With the back screw, I snug it down just enough so it won't come undone. To me the most important one is the front one which seats it at the recoil lug, and I don't want to put any undue torque at the rear screw where it is bedded it also.

For three screw actions, such as the Winchester model 70, I do the same thing with the front screw. Make sure it's seated well. I tighten the Middle Screw enough to keep it from coming out and the same with the rear screw. I know some folks say torque the front and rear screw down the same on three screw actions however I've always done it the way described.

This is from information I've gleaned over decades of experience and listening to others. However always open to new ideas and correction.

Main thing is think about your action, which screw is most helpful with respect to maintaining consistency at recoil? That is the front one at the recoil lug, IMO. I don't see action flex between the front lug and the back lug as much of an issue, if you can actually torque the rear screw down enough to create flex between the front screw and the rear screw. It's a short distance and a very stout piece of metal that makes up the action.

 

[DawnPatrol]

For my Mauser 98 action of my main hunting gun, which has two screws, I snug the front screw down, rapp the butt of the stock on a solid surface, then snug it down, for lack of a better term, good and tight. With the back screw, I snug it down just enough so it won't come undone. To me the most important one is the front one which seats it at the recoil lug, and I don't want to put any undue torque at the rear screw where it is bedded it also.

For three screw actions, such as the Winchester model 70, I do the same thing with the front screw. Make sure it's seated well. I tighten the Middle Screw enough to keep it from coming out and the same with the rear screw. I know some folks say torque the front and rear screw down the same on three screw actions however I've always done it the way described.

This is from information I've gleaned over decades of experience and listening to others. However always open to new ideas and correction.

Main thing is think about your action, which screw is most helpful with respect to maintaining consistency at recoil? That is the front one at the recoil lug, IMO. I don't see action flex between the front lug and the back lug as much of an issue, if you can actually torque the rear screw down enough to create flex between the front screw and the rear screw. It's a short distance and a very stout piece of metal that makes up the action.

Thanks. Very helpful perspective. Makes sense now why there would be a pillar in front but not back.