Too many knife options... Which one?

Woodrow F Call

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
165
Now, if you want to get into the minutia of the knife hobby or want an American Made knife, there are a ton of options. Lots of mom and pop knife makers out there who know what they are doing.

I saw someone mention an L.T. Wright earlier. I bought a Patriot a couple of years ago and carry it just about everyday. I really love that knife. Great size, great steel (D2), made well, sharp.... I actually left the knife in a pocket and thought I lost it. I was already about to order another when my wife found it in the wash..... They make a great knife, I'd probably look at the Northern Hunter or Genesis (though that's a little more bushcrafty).
 

Woodrow F Call

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 27, 2019
Messages
165
Thank you for the input. I've heard enough about the Mora I think I'm gonna buy one. I'm terrible at sharpening with a wetstone but I have the proper grit to learn. I'll probably play around with it and try to learn good techniques for sharpening. Maybe use it more for deboning and trimming than out in the field

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The good thing about a Mora is they are cheap to learn on.

My advice on sharpening:

1. A cheap lighted microscope can really help you see what's going on when you sharpen. I don't use it much anymore, but it really helped me figure out what was going on and why the knife "wouldn't" sharpen. Each stone change, you can see how much of the bevel you've affected and how much more to go. Use it to look at one side of the bevel at a time.

2. If you got the money burning a hole in your pocket, the wicked edge is awesome. Otherwise, a DMT aligner will help you keep an angle while you learn how many strokes it takes to remove steel. It comes with three stones, and I like to buy a "black" DMT stone as I want something even more coarse to reshape. I still use mine when re-profiling so I don't have to pay as much attention while I'm doing it. I generally freehand for touch ups though.... Also, I'm a big fan of the Case Peanut.... they are too small to use on the aligner, so I have to free hand those.

3. Once you get really comfortable with the work required to sharpen the edge, try free handing. I have to take my time and really focus on the task at hand..... otherwise, I spin my wheels not holding the angle right and take much longer to get the result needed.

My process on sharpening:

1. Unless this is a touch up, start with the 120ish grit stone. Hold the knife's bevel to the stone and sharpen one side until a curl builds up. The curl is a fine wire of metal. You can feel this when rubbing your finger (from spine past the edge!) past the bevel of the side you are working. It'll cut if you are going in the wrong direction! The curl will obviously grab your finger as it passes by. Make sure you carefully follow the bevel from the handle all the way to the tip! Time your stroke so that each pass goes the whole distance from handle to tip!

2. Now do the opposite edge until you get that curl.

3. I like to strop on leather at this point back and forth (don't press heavy) in order to break that curl. This will give you a super sharp edge. You won't see the curl broken off, but it won't grip your finger when passing over anymore. I stick on one side until the curl is removed and then lightly strop the other side.

4. At this point I might go back to the stone and do twenty strokes on each side, then ten, then five, then two, then one. Mostly just to even things out.

5. Now you have a choice. Finer grit stones or final strop.

Finer stones only polish that bevel you created (or restored). That finer bevel can look nice and it can aid in making a shaving sharp blade. It's not really needed if all you are doing is processing meat.

I always (If I can) finish with a stropping. Stropping straightens out the micro sized waves in the edge and just makes it cut smoother. At this point, I swap sides with each pass. I have compound on my strops, but I wouldn't bother with it. You just need a leather strop..... I've even used my wallet as a strop. If a leather strop is not available, just go backwards on the last stone you were using being careful to maintain the angle of your bevel.

Hope this helps.
 
Joined
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What about the sharpened back edge on this knife? Seems like a great little knife but that is my one hang up, I often run my index finger up the backside of the blade for control and also when gutting to protect the point from puncturing the ponch. I could see the sharp back edge getting a bit sketchy when slick with blood

Yea I was worried about that too. But found it to be a no issue. I used the knife to field dress a moose, bighorn, deer, and 2 elk. The knife performed flawless. The top sharpened blade was a non issue for me after using the knife
 

RedSnow

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
May 15, 2019
Messages
130
Location
Michigan
I love my Buck 117 mini! Ive broke down many deer including steaking them out. In recent years I keep a Victorinox boning knife on hand as well. They are a great combo. I did just buy a Mora from all the comments here however. A knife that sharpens easily and holds it's edge is amazing and the Buck blade seems to work in my experience.
 

Okhotnik

WKR
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Messages
2,205
Location
N ID
I agree...I have a shelves of 'hunting' knives collecting dust. If I'm on a planned meat mission when multiple animals will hit the deck or I'm day hunting, then the 5" boning knife gets the job done faster than anything else. I should really pack it everywhere or make a LW version for the back country.

The sheath is just some 1" ag pipe heat molded in shape. The clip allows it to hang of my belt loop so I can keep the knife off the ground when I need two free hands.
All up cost was about $25 and it's easy to field sanitise the knife and sheath with boiling water if needed.

It's not a sexy set up and I think I might buy a https://argalioutdoors.com/collections/knives/products/carbon-knife just because they look cool and are lighter for multi day back country trips. I'm still chasing something functional that I can leave on my body with a pack on. I'll take the hit on function for compactness and weight....but I'm sure at some point when I'm bent over a 600lb Sambar (Aus) roped up on a steep slope, I'll be wishing I hadn't left the full sized meat slicer at home.

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Have a few dozen knives from replaceable blades to a few high end customs

I find myself carrying victoronix and a mora
I have two of these knives boning knives

Love them for breaking down animals

I carry a victoronix paring knife too and a stone. Great little light weight knife
 

Lawnboi

WKR
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Messages
7,875
Location
North Central Wi
Now, if you want to get into the minutia of the knife hobby or want an American Made knife, there are a ton of options. Lots of mom and pop knife makers out there who know what they are doing.

I saw someone mention an L.T. Wright earlier. I bought a Patriot a couple of years ago and carry it just about everyday. I really love that knife. Great size, great steel (D2), made well, sharp.... I actually left the knife in a pocket and thought I lost it. I was already about to order another when my wife found it in the wash..... They make a great knife, I'd probably look at the Northern Hunter or Genesis (though that's a little more bushcrafty).

Try the northern hunter, I have both the small and the big one, mainly use the small one as I’m mostly a deer hunter. They did a hell of a job on the aebl steel. Best meat knife Iv used, that includes a hand full of customs.
 
OP
a_noob_hunter
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
518
Try the northern hunter, I have both the small and the big one, mainly use the small one as I’m mostly a deer hunter. They did a hell of a job on the aebl steel. Best meat knife Iv used, that includes a hand full of customs.
Actually tried that one. Felt a little smaller but could be great for breaking down an animal

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Lawnboi

WKR
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Actually tried that one. Felt a little smaller but could be great for breaking down an animal

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Did you try the large? Definitely more of a knife designed for breaking down an animal, and has a fairly thin and pointy tip, but that’s what makes it so good, that and that blade sweep goes through hide like butter. The blade shape and the tip makes caping easy too, I liked the knife for caping more than I did the Havalon type blades

Did you end up with that kestrel? Have always liked the look of that knife, but I already have a couple nice thin boning knives that share the same shape.

When you end up with something thicker, designed for more of a beating imo you give up some to a nice thin knife for breaking down game.

It’s easy to keep buying them though. Iv resisted for the last year, telling myself that what I have now will do all I need and then some
 
OP
a_noob_hunter
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
518
No I didn't try the large. I ordered a Kestrel, don't know when it will ship. I agree with what you're saying about thinner spine. If I want a do it all knife then Benchmade is the way to go but I want something more geared towards breaking down an animal and kestrel has good (from what I've seen/heard) knives. Only downside is I wouldn't use it for any type of "heavy" work, ie working with wood.

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Okhotnik

WKR
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Dec 8, 2018
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I feel I can’t go out and kill
A decent deer or elk without a good quality boot laces

Any suggestions on a good goretex boot lace?

A $15 mora
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2019
Messages
304
Location
Las Vegas
I like the Cold Steel pendleton hunter cpm3v, not too heavy and with a grippy handle. If I really had to save more weight, I'd get their mini pendleton.
 
Joined
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Location
oregon coast
I’m a replacement blade guy, last several years the havalon does the heavy lifting... switching to the tyto version this year.

been trying to get away from them, but they just work better for me. Once you learn the limits of those blades, it’s a good program.

I always carry a real knife still, just in case. Bought a benchmade altitude last year, couldn’t make it through an elk without sharpening it, and it’s not easy to field sharpen razor sharp.

my favorite real knife is a dalstrong shogun series, hold a crazy good edge and easy to get back... it’s labeled a paring knife, but the dimensions are good, and the steel is the best I have used, and I use a lot of knives... much of it’s personal preference
 

CO-AJ

WKR
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Apr 23, 2020
Messages
337
Location
Colorado
I’m a replacement blade guy, last several years the havalon does the heavy lifting... switching to the tyto version this year.

been trying to get away from them, but they just work better for me. Once you learn the limits of those blades, it’s a good program.

I always carry a real knife still, just in case. Bought a benchmade altitude last year, couldn’t make it through an elk without sharpening it, and it’s not easy to field sharpen razor sharp.

my favorite real knife is a dalstrong shogun series, hold a crazy good edge and easy to get back... it’s labeled a paring knife, but the dimensions are good, and the steel is the best I have used, and I use a lot of knives... much of it’s personal preference
Can you strike a ferro rod with it. Looks like it needs a 90 degree/flat spine to get good ferro rod sparks.
 

Eric4

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
231
I've been enjoying finishing knife blanks these days using various materials like old oak flooring,lath boards from an apartment remodel, manzanita, and more recently, cork from wine bottles. Premium cork is cut from one piece of bark, compared to cheaper cork which is often ground up and glued together.

From top to bottom, finished weight included:
Briza Farmer 95 3.2oz
Helle Veidmann 2.8oz
Karesuando 80 2.5oz
Helle Hellefisk 1.8oz (floats too)

These blanks are $15-30

B5x5LLP.jpg
 
Joined
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oregon coast
Can you strike a ferro rod with it. Looks like it needs a 90 degree/flat spine to get good ferro rod sparks.
Not sure, think they do have a flat spine, and assume it would work. Regardless, I always pack a real knife too. I wouldn’t depend my life on one, but use them for almost all field processing, including popping leg joints.

takes 2 blades to get through a whole elk, skinned and quartered
 

Beendare

WKR
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Corripe cervisiam
I had to go back and edit my comment. I picked up a Benchmade Altitude from the rep and that knife is awesome. I haven't done an elk with it yet- only late season deer and Javi's.

The S90v steel is incredible....holds an edge like crazy. The thin handle pairs well with the thicker mechanics nitrile pebble finish gloves I use now....good grip without snagging.

________
 

Jaredk03

FNG
Joined
Aug 19, 2015
Messages
22
I have an LT Wright small northern hunter that is my perfect backpack hunting knife. AEB-L stainless steel stays sharp enough to dress 2 Caribou and cape 1 without needing sharpening! The handle is comfortable for such a compact blade too
 

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RDG_RNR

FNG
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Santa Rosa, CA
I have the Kestrel Ovis hunter. I bring that and a havalon piranta in the field. The ovis is a great knife. Sharp as hell and holds a great edge, but I find myself using the havalon much more often. The Ovis isn’t great for skinning and I can open joints easier with the piranta.

bought my dad this bench made for his birthday and between that and my piranta we made quick work of a couple muleys and a whitetail this season.
 

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