To reload or not to reload? To upgrade or not to upgrade?

[Vitals]

So I shoot on old tang safety Ruger M77 and have been contemplating jumping into the reload game, or just finding the box ammo that my rifle seems to shoot well and buy a lot of it. Obviously, its difficult these days with finding either certain loads or reloading supplies.
I was wondering how many of you guys have achieved good hunting accuracy and range with box ammo?

This rifle never fails to surprise me. I attempted my furthest distance today at 350 yds with .270 Barnes Vor-TX 130gr. I was excited with my ability to hit an 8x8ish rock after missing it by inches twice before. I realize this doesn't sound great to many of you snipers out there, but coming out of a completely stock rifle that came off the floor in 1975, I think its something to feel good about.

I'd like a synthetic stock and a lot of the cool things that come with a rifle made in the last 10 years, but I just cant rationalize spending all the money on a new rifle/scope when the one I've got performs well. One concern I have is of its durability/reliability as a mountain rifle. Its a wood stock/blued barrel gun that comes with nearly 40 years on its life and there's always a concern in the back of my mind that I will have some issue with it while in the back country. How would you guys feel about this sort of rifle to hunt with? I'm hoping to achieve confidence out to 400-500 yds before my october hunt, and I'd love to make it happen with this rifle. Am I asking to much from this old dog?

 

[Shrek]

I would encourage every rifle hunter to hand load. As for the Ruger I would keep on hunting and not worry a bit. You might put a new firing pin spring and trigger spring in it but other than that it's a fine rifle if it's accurate. A bedding job and a light trigger always helps too.

 

[Justin Crossley]

Vitals,
What scope are you using? Possibly an area where you could improve your setup?

Like Shrek said, a bedding job and a good trigger go a long way.

If you like the gun and are confident with it, I wouldn't worry about changing it.

If you think you would like reloading as a hobby, I would recommend getting into it. It makes shooting so much more fun for me.

 

[Vitals]

I have an OLD VX-II 3-9x40 that my uncle mounted on it when my grandfather gave it to him. I realize that If I want to comfortably shoot 400+ yards, I will need much better optics. A couple of old timers have encouraged me to keep the current glass due to the quality of glass that was used in back then but I still think I need more power out of my scope.

Bedding, a trigger, floating the barrel, and a new scope are all things I want to upgrade and will undoubtedly improve accuracy/consistency. Wouldn't I be close to the cost of a new rifle by the time Im done with all that?

What are some thoughts on the .270 caliber as a 500 yd gun?

 

[Shrek]

A 270 win will get it done at 500 yards every day of the week and twice on Sunday. That old glass has old coatings. Most any average scope is better than it and a mid range scope blows it away at dawn and dusk. The barrel floating , bedding job and trigger can be done by you for about $130 or less. Most of that is a drop in trigger. Bedding materials would run around $40 .

 

[Shrek]

Is the scope a vx or vari x ? Either way it will work honestly. I'm not a fan of Leopold scopes but they do work. The bedding , trigger and finding a load the rifle likes are bigger deals that upgrading the scope imo. Find someone who loads and see if they wouldn't either load for you or let you use their equipment and teach you. That way you could get into it for the cost of components and have some hands on instruction.

 

[ST52v]

I'll second the firing pin and spring. Two years ago my father in law's Ruger 270 went click on the biggest white tail he has ever seen while hunting. Called Ruger and sent it to them. They fixed it for free and sent it back with no problems.

 

[Vitals]

Doing the bedding, trigger, and floating myself for that cost savings is really appealing. It would be my first time getting into anything that serious though with my firearms so that makes me a bit apprehensive. It seems like something there is a high chance for error, bedding especially? Being that its a family rifle passed down to me, I would probably feel better having a professional do a professional job.

The scope is a Vari-X II, sorry for the confusion. I've always been pleased with the clarity, however I haven't had to chance to shoot through anything else other than friends newer Leupolds. Its more the power of the scope which I want to improve on. The clarity/brightness of a newer Vortex etc. would be great to of course.

It seems like reloading is the way I need to go. To many people have told me to many times for me to resist it any longer. I guess its just the initial investment, on top of the struggle to find primers, powders etc. that has scared me away. Bottom line is I want to be shooting 400-500 comfortably by October and I know what I need to do. I move to AZ in July so the timing of things is also a factor. I wonder if all of this would be better started in such a gun friendly place...

 

[Shrek]

I was apprehensive myself the first time and the only trouble I've ever had wasn't the actual bedding but from me trying to use a dremmel tool. It's not rocket science. Take your sweet time and think twice before each step and it will be fine. Rush and miss steps and you ccould make a mess but that is any project. Check out some shooting clubs in Arizona and I bet you could find some mentors who would walk you through all the things you need to know.

 

[Vitals]

At this point, MidwayUSA seems to be the best source I know of for reloading supplies. Are there any other sources I could look at? Thanks for the helpful input Shrek.

 

[Whisky]

Sinclair
Natchez
Graf and Sons
Powder Valley

 

[Shrek]

Midsouth shooters supply , Natchez shooting supply , graff and sons , 3rd generation shooting supply. Midway USA is about the last place I go for reloading supplies. Their shipping charges have some real bite to them.

 

[ST52v]

It may be best to call the above places to order your stuff. Most of them can't keep up with the sales and inventory on line may not be accurate. If they show it on line then call them to double check and place the order. I have seen some post where guys were upset when they only got half an order and were going to have to pay two shipping charges ect.

 

[ST52v]

I forgot to mention shooters pro shop. They should have Nosler brass for the 270. They sell blem amo and bullets. I wouldn't use it for long range work but for white tails in PA it's fine.

 

[Jason Snyder]

If you can change your oil you can do a bedding job. Take your time, read the directions several times and do a dry run or two. Use plenty of release agent, and did I say to take your time?

It really isn't hard.

Bedding and a new trigger and that rifle will surprise you at how it will shoot. Might not hurt to have the barrel recrowned either.

 

[Shrek]

I think Jason and I are on the same page with this advice and hope we can encourage you to take on the project. I know it adds a lot to my hunting and shooting satisfaction to load my own ammo and do most basic gun smith work myself. Not thinking Jason is on this page but If you want to keep the cost down even more the m77 tang safety trigger is not that hard to work on. You can get a drop in but some simple tuning should get you a very nice hunting trigger. Since the rifle is 39 years old I would bet the rough machine marks are worn off by now so adjusting the sear and trimming the trigger spring a half coil at a time would get you a sweet trigger in the two pound range. A quick search led me to some instructions for a diy job. A hard stone for a little polish wouldn't hurt a bit either. Don't know if you can see this but it's a thread for another forum and the instructions come from reloader magazine #59. I'd do this in a heartbeat but thats just me and I've been diy grinding and cutting triggers since it taught myself on a ruger 10/22 when I was 12? .

 

[Vitals]

Wow thats awesome Shrek. I wish I could see it more clearly. Feel free to PM me the link. I've been watching some videos on bedding and im starting to feel more confident in my ability to do it right. Maybe save that money for the crown job which it might need since it was knocked over years ago by some yahoo at the range when my uncle had it. took a decent gouge to the crown.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/93...r-single-stage-press-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding
This RCBS Rock Chucker kit from Midway SEEMS like a good deal, but maybe its not. What say you experienced reloaders? Would it be cheaper to put this kit together individually?

 

[Jason Snyder]

I bought a Rockchucker kit 17 years ago, still using it.

 

[Vitals]

Yeah my friends dad has is original and I've heard nothing but great things about them.

 

[Shrek]

I started on an old Rockchucker Supreme but I have moved on to a Forster Co-Ax. For a single stage press I feel the Lee Classic Cast is a better deal imo. Broz will be by soon probably to recommend the Redding T-7 press. All of them will do the job . I have used both the Lee and the RC and the only thing you get with the RC that you don't with the Lee is more money out of pocket and at one point the RC cast frame was made in China. The T-7 is a turret press so it's different from the first two. I'd buy the parts and pieces personally but you can get a kit and then add to it.
I looked a little more after the trigger job post and Rifle Basics makes a drop in sear for about $40 that will do the trick. For that money I'd definitely go with it. You will still do the adjustment but you won't have to play with cutting springs and polishing the sear and possibly changing the angles accidentally. It will also come with written directions.
It's 2am here and I just happened to wake up and catch the feed so I'm off to dreamland again. I'm sure some others will chime in tomorrow with a bunch of confusing advice on how to buy what you need. At least we can give you some good options and steer you clear of junk.