Tips to Broadhead Tune?

[Jplus4]

Hey Guys,
I've been a lurker from the beginning and decided I had better speak up at some point.
I know there is a big debate on wether or not you can actually get your BH's to hit the same as your field tips so what do you guys do? Here is my senario:
I bought my bow from a dealer and just started shooting. When it came to hunting I just adjusted my sights to my BH's. The shop says they can't help me because they don't have a BH target and I've spoke to others that say it's not possible or too hard so don't try. I've have tried to find as much info on the web, but am kinda hesitant to screw with things without proper giudance.
Here is what I have:
2010 TurboHawk
Left Handed
Wisker Bisquit (looking to put a QAD dropaway on)
G5 Montecs
What do you guys do about tuning?
Thanks, and I have really appreciated all of your advise since the start.
Josh M

 

[bowinhand]

Well, the short answer is you can get your broadheads and field points to group together. You will need somewhere to shoot and a broadhead target shoot one maybe two broadheads first then two FPs and make micro 1/16 or less adjustments to your rest moving the rest the direction you want the BHs to move

 

[weaver]

I
First of all i would go to a limb driven rest such as a trophy taker smackdown pro. So much easier to set up and keep in tune.
Make sure your arrows are the correct spine
Set your rest to 3/4" to 13/16" from riser and level with nock point or a touch below.
Yoke tune from there...youll need a bow press
Almost never have to move the rest.

Good luck!

 

[FemoralArchery]

Try nuts and bolts "kitchen sink tuning method"

I don't understand why people say that a limb driven rest is easier to set up than a cable driven. My QAD is literally one bolt, and one screw in the cable clamp. I can set it up and be ready to tune in 1 minute.

 

[Jplus4]

Thanks guys. Sounds like as soon as I get my new rest I should just go out and make some adjustments and see how it does... sounds like it can't hurt.

 

[ohhiitznik]

I always broadhead tune by moving the rest. Yoke tuning is much more difficult and requires a press. I can tune almost any bow to group broadheads and field points as long as its in working order and no timing issues. There is a thread about it on ARcherytalk.com that can help you out.

 

[jmez]

It won't hurt, will actually improve your shooting. It isn't that hard. Download the Easton tuning guide. Good information in there. If you don't have a press you won't be able to yoke tune. If you are worried about changing things just make sure you write all starting points down and what you do, then you can always put things back as they were.

You absolutely can get your FP's and BH's to group together.

 

[weaver]

Try nuts and bolts "kitchen sink tuning method"

I don't understand why people say that a limb driven rest is easier to set up than a cable driven. My QAD is literally one bolt, and one screw in the cable clamp. I can set it up and be ready to tune in 1 minute.

That is an excellent reference. Nuts&Bolts is awesome.

The reason a limb driven rest is easier to setup then a Qad or similar type rest is that with a limb driven i can install the rest, pull the limb cord tight, tighten the screw and im done, its timed perfectly every time. Whereas a Qad you have to mess with getting the timing just right. Dont get me wrong Qad is an alright rest imho when its setup right. Used one for years and still have one on my backup bow.

 

[weaver]

I always broadhead tune by moving the rest. Yoke tuning is much more difficult and requires a press. I can tune almost any bow to group broadheads and field points as long as its in working order and no timing issues. There is a thread about it on ARcherytalk.com that can help you out.

Ya if the yoke is close you can usually get it tuned very well by moving your rest around a bit.
I used to get so frustrated sometimes with getting fps to hit with my bhs and discovered the problem was in the yoke. So now i go directly to the yoke and save myself much grief

 

[FemoralArchery]

The reason a limb driven rest is easier to setup then a Qad or similar type rest is that with a limb driven i can install the rest, pull the limb cord tight, tighten the screw and im done, its timed perfectly every time. Whereas a Qad you have to mess with getting the timing just right. Dont get me wrong Qad is an alright rest imho when its setup right. Used one for years and still have one on my backup bow.

I'll buy that for a dollar. I've never used one, but after setting up a few cable drivens, I couldn't see how it could be much easier. Well played sir.

 

[Tilzbow]

I've used QADs without issue on several bows until last year when I tried one on a bow that is ultra sensitive to any tension on the down cable. If the tension on the cord from the QAD was even a little too tight the bow wouldn't broad head tune but if tension wasn't enough the QAD wouldn't drop. After fighting this I switched to an AAE Pro Drop and the bow suddenly got easy to tune. I've now shelved the Pro Drop and moved on to the Hamskea Versa Rest and I can't imagine a better built or easier to set rest than this, plus it's got full containment.

 

[Jplus4]

Thanks again guys. I know I have read the nuts and bolts, but had better go back and reread.

One more thing - is it hard to set up a drop away (like the QAD or similar) or would you suggest going through my local shop?

 

[Ohio Darin]

Follow link below to Eastman's Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide. See page 11

Eastmans Arrow Tuning Guide

 

[FemoralArchery]

They are pretty easy to set up. QAD comes with a DVD showing the whole process, I don't know about the others.

 

[justin davis]

There's no debate about it. If your broadheads and field points dont hit the same your bow is not tuned! Simple as that. Some bows are harder to tune. For me I eye ball the center shot and shoot broadhead and field points at 20 yards. I tweak the rest, yoke cables, etc till they are hitting the same. Then I keep moving back in yardage and continue shooting until both are shooting the same at long range.

 

[fire arrow]

Let's not forget the BH needs to spin true on the arrow, no wobbles. Square up the end of the arrow with the G5 arrow squaring tool, then spin the arrow/BH. I like using my finger to spin the BH. More sensitive to wobble. If the BH doesn't spin without wobble, try different BH. If it still doesn't, try different arrow. Might be a bad BH farel or bad insert. I always use new shafts and BH's for hunting arrows.

Take your time BH tuning, might take a few days before you get the hang of it.

Also make sure you bow's cam's are timed, and that your string and cable are shot in. If you need help, or have a problem send me a PM.