Tips needed for oiling a stock

[husky390]

I bought an old Savage 99 that has spent the majority of its life in a pickup on a ranch in Az. The stock is pretty dry and I want to oil it before shooting it. I would like to avoid stripping and refinishing it so I was considering using Tongue Oil. It seemed to work pretty good on an old axe handle that was dried out.

So, what say you, is that a good idea or is there something better out there? Thank you.

 

[AK Troutbum]

My first thought was Tongue oil before even reading the content of your thread.

 

[husky390]

My first thought was Tongue oil before even reading the content of your thread.

Right on, thank you.

 

[orionsbrother]

You can use Tung Oil, but it dries more slowly than some of the products made for gun stocks.

If you want step by step instructions, I can give them to you.

 

[husky390]

You can use Tung Oil, but it dries more slowly than some of the products made for gun stocks.

If you want step by step instructions, I can give them to you.

I'm all ears. My Uncle did the axe handle so I'm open to any suggestions. Thank you.

 

[loner]

Linseed oil is what I have used on most old stocks.

 

[orionsbrother]

First, make sure the stock is clean and free of skin oils. You can use a mild solution of Dirtex from a paint store or hardware store. It's a non sudsing, non filming oil and grease emulsifier. Following up by wiping everything down with denatured alcohol will make sure to help pull oils out and flash off any water.

Gently and carefully clean any crud out of any checkering with a very small slotted screwdriver, tip of a fixed blade knife or the like. Gently pull to scrape gunk out, don't push.

Sand any scratches using progressively finer sandpaper, going with the grain.

Wipe the stock down again with your denatured alcohol to remove sanding dust and make sure it's clean.

 

[orionsbrother]

If you're using Tung Oil, make sure it's 100% Tung Oil, not Tung Oil Varnish.

Pour some of the Tung Oil into a Ball Jar or some other wide mouthed jar with a lid. You won't need much, maybe start with two ounces. Add an equal volume of Mineral Spirits (Paint Thinner) to the jar and stir well.

Brush the thinned Tung Oil onto the stock and work it in well. After about five minutes or so, wipe off the excess with a clean t-shirt type rag. Set the stock somewhere warm to dry.

Dispose of rags carefully. Lay them flat on concrete or stone to dry away from any buildings, burn them, do not wad them up and put them in a garbage can.

Wait at least 24 hours and buff the smooth parts of the stock using 0000 steel wool, going with the grain, avoiding any checkering, and wipe off with a little mineral spirits on a rag.

 

[orionsbrother]

Add another two ounces of Tung Oil to your jar and maybe an ounce of mineral spirits, stir it up and repeat the process. Allow at least 24 hours between coats.

Keep repeating the process, increasing the ratio of Tung Oil in the mixture each time.

Eight to twelve coats is not unusual. When talking about Tung Oil, some of the old refinishers would repeat the maxim "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for a decade." You can probably understand why true Tung Oil finishes aren't very popular any more. I don't have any furniture that I want to rub that much.

You can stop whenever you're pleased with the look and just reapply more Tung Oil from time to time. Just give it a cleaning beforehand. Some blue or green painter's tape works great to protect the barrel and action. Tung Oil will wipe off the metal when wet, but can leave a different lustre if allowed to dry on the metal.

 

[orionsbrother]

There are products made for refinishing stocks that will dry faster than Tung Oil. Most are more expensive.

Linseed oil will have a stronger odor that lasts and the finish will deepen more with age. It doesn't dry like Tung Oil. I'm not a Linseed Oil fan for something like a rifle stock.

Linseed Oil modified Alkyd Transparent Oxide Stains are great for decks, docks etc.

 

[bradb]

I would do it the way oriosbrother suggeted.

 

[husky390]

Thank you orionsbrother. This should be a perfect winter project.

 

[Jason Snyder]

You can buy a checkering tool from Brownell's to use instead of a screwdriver. I cleaned up the checkering when I refinished a rifle a couple of years ago, it's definitely worth the time to do this as part of the process.

 

[Ray]

My dad has used lin speed oil for some old rifles. Its a modified linseed oil. Same system of stock cleaning and application as noted for linseed or tung oil.

http://lin-speed.com/

 

[orionsbrother]

One other negative of linseed oil is that it supports mold growth.

I would avoid regular linseed oil. The modified linseed oil products are different. Modified linseed oil products will generally dry faster and require fewer applications and have a higher sheen.

As with 100% Tung Oil vs. Tung Oil Finishes, many products labeled a Linseed Oil Finish are, in fact, Linseed Oil Modified Varnishes.

The true oil products will not peel and can be reapplied from time to time for maintenance later...easier to deal with dings and scratches that are common with a gun that goes into the field.

True oil finishes can not be applied over an existing varnish, epoxy or urethane finish.