A Tikka "Cleaning" Regimen. A Little Brake Clean and Homemade Olive Oil is All You Need.

[Stickmark]

Thanks for the reply. Great thread.
I should have used a better verb than "pull", as in pulling (taking off) the barrel off action. I meant just taking the stock off.
But you answered my question about if detaching the stock and doing some gun scrubber type of flushing on the trigger housing would be a good thing.
No need to do that, with Tikka.

 

[nm.otter]

I discovered Fluid Film 25 years ago when my brush mower manufacturer specified it for chain lube due to its neutral static charge. It's a blend of highly refined, light petroleum grease (think runny Vaseline) and lanolin. Opposite charges, so no static cling. It's nice enough on the hands that I rarely wash it off.

 

[Antares]

Why are we oiling bolt bodies in the first place?

 

[medvedyt]

here is from tikka t3x manual:

Routine cleaning should always take place right after use of the rifle (even without shooting). Maintenance should
not be neglected even in case of the “All-weather” or “Stainless” models. Corrosion can begin within 24 hours if the
rifle is not cleaned after use. It is recommended to support the rifle with the bipod during cleaning. Use only high
quality gun oil that cleans, lubricates and preserves (CLP). Routine cleaning procedure is done as follows:
1. Ensure that the rifle is unloaded and remove the bolt and magazine
2. In case the rifle has been used in wet conditions dry it using compressed air or let it dry in a warm / dry place
without any protective cover i.e. drag bag.
3. Use an absolutely straight, sturdy and smooth cleaning rod fitted with bronze bore brush soaked in bore solvent
and push-pull it through the bore until major residue is removed (approx. 10-15 times). It is recommended to
use cleaning rod guide to prevent the rod from dragging on the inner surfaces of the bore and receiver.
4. Push a clean felt pellet moistened with cleaning solvent through the bore one after another until pellets come
out clean (approx. 5-10 times). Clean only in the direction of bullet movement and replace dirty pellet with new
before every cleaning sequence. Guide the cleaning rod with fingers or special bore guide.
5. Clean the inner surfaces of the receiver from all the firing residue with felt pellet and/or brush moistened with
cleaning solvent.
6. Use a small solvent-wetted brush to clean the bolt from firing residue.
7. Use larger diameter nylon brush or particular chamber cleaning pellet moistened with bore solvent to clean
the chamber.
8. Pass a regular bore pellet moistened with rust preventive oil through the bore. Also, leave a thin coat of oil on
the cartridge chamber surface (remember to wipe it dry before shooting!).
9. Wipe all touching surfaces of the receiver and bolt with a very light coat of rust preventive oil.
10. Wipe the stock dry. In case of wooden stock, ensure that surfaces are lightly oiled with a proper wooden stock
oil.
11. Check the correct tightness of the receiver screws (fig. 5)

https://www.krale.shop/media/blfa_files/Manual_-_Tikka_T3x_Hunter_EN_FI_SE_IT_DE_FR_ES_-min_1.pdf

 

[medvedyt]

Definitely clear! I thought maybe he just missed it

Definitely clear! I thought maybe he just missed it

Thought I made that clear in my post but maybe not. I do suck at typing haha.

The intent is to only use olive oil on the outside of the bolt, not the inside where the firing pin assembly is. Doing this will not cause any colder weather issues.

that is why i posted i will try next winter when the temperature will reach our cold to see how it goes with only your kind of lubricant on the outside part of the bolt. i did not misunderstood what the OP wrote ...

 

[coast range]

What is your initial bolt cleaning method? I found one YouTube several years ago but never did it to my 7rem mag that was already over a decade old. Now I have a brand new 6.5prc I guess I might as well do it while I’m waiting for the barrel to be theaded.

Also red or blue loc tite on the Allen that holds the trigger assembly in? Torque spec? Or just TIGHT!

 

[Harvey_NW]

here is from tikka t3x manual:

Routine cleaning should always take place right after use of the rifle (even without shooting). Maintenance should
not be neglected even in case of the “All-weather” or “Stainless” models. Corrosion can begin within 24 hours if the
rifle is not cleaned after use. It is recommended to support the rifle with the bipod during cleaning. Use only high
quality gun oil that cleans, lubricates and preserves (CLP). Routine cleaning procedure is done as follows:
1. Ensure that the rifle is unloaded and remove the bolt and magazine
2. In case the rifle has been used in wet conditions dry it using compressed air or let it dry in a warm / dry place
without any protective cover i.e. drag bag.
3. Use an absolutely straight, sturdy and smooth cleaning rod fitted with bronze bore brush soaked in bore solvent
and push-pull it through the bore until major residue is removed (approx. 10-15 times). It is recommended to
use cleaning rod guide to prevent the rod from dragging on the inner surfaces of the bore and receiver.
4. Push a clean felt pellet moistened with cleaning solvent through the bore one after another until pellets come
out clean (approx. 5-10 times). Clean only in the direction of bullet movement and replace dirty pellet with new
before every cleaning sequence. Guide the cleaning rod with fingers or special bore guide.
5. Clean the inner surfaces of the receiver from all the firing residue with felt pellet and/or brush moistened with
cleaning solvent.
6. Use a small solvent-wetted brush to clean the bolt from firing residue.
7. Use larger diameter nylon brush or particular chamber cleaning pellet moistened with bore solvent to clean
the chamber.
8. Pass a regular bore pellet moistened with rust preventive oil through the bore. Also, leave a thin coat of oil on
the cartridge chamber surface (remember to wipe it dry before shooting!).
9. Wipe all touching surfaces of the receiver and bolt with a very light coat of rust preventive oil.
10. Wipe the stock dry. In case of wooden stock, ensure that surfaces are lightly oiled with a proper wooden stock
oil.
11. Check the correct tightness of the receiver screws (fig. 5)

https://www.krale.shop/media/blfa_files/Manual_-_Tikka_T3x_Hunter_EN_FI_SE_IT_DE_FR_ES_-min_1.pdf

There are still plenty of doctors out there that think carbohydrates are good energy, salt causes high blood pressure, and cholesterol clogs arteries.

I think it's safe to say that in this day and age sometimes even the industry professionals and/or manufacturers might be regurgitating debatable information themselves.

 

[Harvey_NW]

What is your initial bolt cleaning method? I found one YouTube several years ago but never did it to my 7rem mag that was already over a decade old. Now I have a brand new 6.5prc I guess I might as well do it while I’m waiting for the barrel to be theaded.

I think this video addresses it pretty well.

Also red or blue loc tite on the Allen that holds the trigger assembly in? Torque spec? Or just TIGHT!

Blue, or paint pen, 60in/lb. Never use red loctite on a firearm aside from gluing a rail on.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I think this video addresses it pretty well.


Blue, or paint pen, 60in/lb. Never use red loctite on a firearm aside from gluing a rail on.

That's a good video explanation of the initial firing pin cleaning. Nearly exactly what I do to get the factory oil and/or grease out.

I also use an oil based paint pen, used to use blue loctite (you don't need much). I personally tighten until the long end of the allen wrench starts to bend (really tight). Probably closer to 80" lbs. I use needle nose pliers wrapped in a rag to gently keep the magazine ejector spring lined up (it will want to clock on you during tightening).

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Why are we oiling bolt bodies in the first place?

LIGHTLY oiling the bolt body aids in function, especially in high dirt/dust/mud applications like hunting. It also helps with longevity for moving metal on metal parts (especially in guns that see high use and fast/hard cycling like hunting/trainer guns should). You'll notice a difference in overall smoothness and "feel" on a broken in and oiled Tikka versus one consistently ran dry for its life.

I've found that users running the bolt bodies and lugs dry see more intermittent feeding and extraction issues (nothing catastrophic but enough to slow you down, mainly in the aforementioned conditions and shooting applications).

 

[Lawnboi]

I’d ditch the olive oil and use dry lube on the outside of the bolt if you must.

My tikkas see a small amount of grease on the back of the lugs, the camning surface of the bolt, and a tiny bit on the cocking ramp of the bolt body. Otherwise they are run clean.

I have tried wet lube, and dry lube on the bolt body and raceways. It might be a little slicker but gives no practical value while being a magnet for crap (wet). I didn’t see down side dry lube specifically bore tech but it didn’t do enough to make it worth while either.

But I clean my chambers and bores too so what do I know.

 

[medvedyt]

There are still plenty of doctors out there that think carbohydrates are good energy, salt causes high blood pressure, and cholesterol clogs arteries.

I think it's safe to say that in this day and age sometimes even the industry professionals and/or manufacturers might be regurgitating debatable information themselves.

so you are telling me to use olive oil because carbs are bad lol sorry i cannot see the reflexion on that and i will experiment next winter to prove my point, even without putting olive in the firing pin area the solid gel created by the freezing olive oil on your bolt might affect the travel ... try to put an olive oil bolt from tikka into your freezer for a night and try on in the morning ... you will understand what i meant and the -40 c or f will exaggerate the issues.

 

[medvedyt]

and i might when i was in the army so few decades ago lol the mas 49-56, frf1 and frf2 and famas got the same treatment with break clp and we never used olive oil but it was again long time ago when it was said that carbs were good lol ... as of today there is still time where you need carbs as well lol

 

[Antares]

LIGHTLY oiling the bolt body aids in function, especially in high dirt/dust/mud applications like hunting. It also helps with longevity for moving metal on metal parts (especially in guns that see high use and fast/hard cycling like hunting/trainer guns should). You'll notice a difference in overall smoothness and "feel" on a broken in and oiled Tikka versus one consistently ran dry for its life.

I've found that users running the bolt bodies and lugs dry see more intermittent feeding and extraction issues (nothing catastrophic but enough to slow you down, mainly in the aforementioned conditions and shooting applications).

I lightly grease the lug faces and the cocking ramp and leave everything else dry. Maybe part of the difference is that I almost never encounter abrasive debris (e.g., dust, dirt, mud, etc.); water and wet vegetation is what I deal with.

 

[Formidilosus]

so you are telling me to use olive oil because carbs are bad lol sorry i cannot see the reflexion on that and i will experiment next winter to prove my point, even without putting olive in the firing pin area the solid gel created by the freezing olive oil on your bolt might affect the travel ... try to put an olive oil bolt from tikka into your freezer for a night and try on in the morning ... you will understand what i meant and the -40 c or f will exaggerate the issues.

Who said anything about -40° C? How many peoole are hunting and shooting in those temps? The OP didn’t say that his method worked for the most extreme conditions on earth.


As for cold weather and olive oil, almost every rifle in this class used it-

Thread 'S2H Winter Rifle Course Observations/lessons'

Feb 25, 2025

Shoot2Hunt held a Winter version of the 0-600 Yard Hunting Course last week. Below will follow some of the notable experiences/information.

@Ryan Avery @ztc92 @jzeblaz @longrangelead @24valve



Day 1: We started the afternoon before the official start date with 4x students and 2x teachers. 2x Tikka T3’s, 1x BAT action custom, 1x Tikka M595 Master Sporter. IIRC it was 3° F. Snowed all day.




Four more shooters arrived that night or the next morning.



The first four days it ranged from 3° F to -15°F for the day time...

• Formidilosus
• Replies: 179
• Forum: Firearms

• 

 

[medvedyt]

sorry if that is hurting but here we are hunting by that kind of temperatures and the tikkas are used as well by the canadian rangers with those temperatures. as i said -40f or c is a different world ... but thank you for the feedback on milder temperatures.

 

[JGRaider]

I’d ditch the olive oil and use dry lube on the outside of the bolt if you must.

My tikkas see a small amount of grease on the back of the lugs, the camning surface of the bolt, and a tiny bit on the cocking ramp of the bolt body. Otherwise they are run clean.

But I clean my chambers and bores too so what do I know.

Agree 100%

sorry if that is hurting but here we are hunting by that kind of temperatures and the tikkas are used as well by the canadian rangers with those temperatures. as i said -40f or c is a different world ... but thank you for the feedback on milder temperatures.

You make a valid point. He disregards the fact that he often bases his opinions on extremely high round counts that 99% of shooters will never come close to shooting. It's OK for his narrative, not so much for everyone else. In spite of "his majesty " I'll stick with olive oil or any other similar oils used for lubing bolts is well, odd to say the least.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

sorry if that is hurting but here we are hunting by that kind of temperatures and the tikkas are used as well by the canadian rangers with those temperatures. as i said -40f or c is a different world ... but thank you for the feedback on milder temperatures.

Again, I have zero experience in -40F. Where I hunt, even in late season, -40F is approaching all time record lows for recorded history. Also, if it's -40F my pussy ass is staying in the tent or cabin or right next to the fire haha. I think the coldest temps I remember hunting with olive oiled bolt guns was around -20F in Wyoming. There were no rifle function issues there, just human function issues with finger tips and toes.

I am much more likely to see 120F than I am -20F with my hunts/field days throughout the year.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I lightly grease the lug faces and the cocking ramp and leave everything else dry. Maybe part of the difference is that I almost never encounter abrasive debris (e.g., dust, dirt, mud, etc.); water and wet vegetation is what I deal with.

I think tailoring the method for different climates and extreme temps for folks could be important. Again, this is just what has worked for me and where/how I hunt and was passing along the info. This method did work with no hiccups crossing bogs and endless rain soaked willows and blueberries in Alaska this September. It didn't rain all the time, but nothing had time to dry out between rains (it did rain almost every day). This was only 8 or so field days so sample size for me in that particular climate it very very small. In saying that, the guns have been in other very wet climates for hunts and field days without issues.

For transparency to all, I shoot year round, mainly in Arizona, California, and Wyoming. My hunts take me all over the country and outside the country occasionally. I normally hunt in 6 states every year with varying climates and temperatures.

Edit: A photo of said area in AK...

 

[Southernfried]

I think tailoring the method for different climates and extreme temps for folks could be important. Again, this is just what has worked for me and where/how I hunt and was passing along the info. This method did work with no hiccups crossing bogs and endless rain soaked willows and blueberries in Alaska this September. It didn't rain all the time, but nothing had time to dry out between rains (it did rain almost every day). This was only 8 or so field days so sample size for me in that particular climate it very very small. In saying that, the guns have been in other very wet climates for hunts and field days without issues.

For transparency to all, I shoot year round, mainly in Arizona, California, and Wyoming. My hunts take me all over the country and outside the country occasionally. I normally hunt in 6 states every year with varying climates and temperatures.

Edit: A photo of said area in AK...

View attachment 862516

That is beautiful, cant tell ya how jealous I am but happy for anyone that gets to do that.