Tikka vs Seekins 7 PRC - build help

[rockymtnsam]

Ok I need a little help. I’ve been waiting on a Seekins element in 7 PRC but now I’m having second thoughts. I know I won’t regret the Seekins, but I really still want to build a Tikka.

I’m looking at a Tikka t3x Roughtech:
- Stocky’s Tikka Hunter VG
- Proof Sendero prefit CF barrel

Brownell’s has the prefit on sale for $768 right now. Am I missing anything I’d need for the build? This puts me just under $2500 before the gunsmith costs, which will be a few hundred. The Seekins is $2850 essentially before tax.

I’ve already got my optics and rings, just need to make sure I’m covered if I decide to go the Tikka build route.

 

[matthewmt]

The seekins are really nice rifles. I don't know if they offer a 7 in anything less than a 26" barrel hat the moment.
What barrel length were you thinking for the tikka?


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[Timberline001]

Use a standard $750 tikka for the action. No need to spend the extra on the roughtech. The only difference in the part you’re using is the fluted bolt and LRI will do that for you for $65

There’s really no need for a gunsmith for the tikka, it’s pretty easy to do yourself with the rentals here on rokslide for tools. And if you do need a smith the most I’ve been charged to remove the old barrel and install the prefit was $100. You can bed the Stockys yourself if need be but all the ones I’ve installed have shot phenomenal without bedding.

 

[sodaksooner]

I love my Seekins, best rifle I have owned to date. Im sure the tikka's perform well. I just hate how the action looks. I know that is stupid, but I cant get over it. Maybe I will someday

 

[rockymtnsam]

The seekins are really nice rifles. I don't know if they offer a 7 in anything less than a 26" barrel hat the moment.
What barrel length were you thinking for the tikka?


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The element is a 22” barrel. That’s the length I’m looking at for the Proof CF barrel, I’d like to suppress it eventually.

Use a standard $750 tikka for the action. No need to spend the extra on the roughtech. The only difference in the part you’re using is the fluted bolt and LRI will do that for you for $65

There’s really no need for a gunsmith for the tikka, it’s pretty easy to do yourself with the rentals here on rokslide for tools. And if you do need a smith the most I’ve been charged to remove the old barrel and install the prefit was $100. You can bed the Stockys yourself if need be but all the ones I’ve installed have shot phenomenal without bedding.

Very good to know, thank you! Part of my reasoning was the fluted bolt and barrel (which I’m going to replace anyway) but that’s helpful. I did read the Stockys is fine without bedding. Appreciate the insight

 

[Timberline001]

The element is a 22” barrel. That’s the length I’m looking at for the Proof CF barrel, I’d like to suppress it eventually.

Very good to know, thank you! Part of my reasoning was the fluted bolt and barrel (which I’m going to replace anyway) but that’s helpful. I did read the Stockys is fine without bedding. Appreciate the insight

Yeah no reason to spend the extra when you’ll be removing the barrel. You can chose the fluting for you bolt this way too, lots of options. You can also go with a stainless and save money on coatings to avoid rust. The roughtech is only blued I believe.

 

[atmat]

Go the Tikka route, but go standard stainless lite. Ask someone here to help you switch the barrels — it’s easy. Eventually upgrade the stock if you want.

Try to sell the factory barrel to recoup some money.

And for gosh sakes go shorter than 22” if you’re going to suppress. All my rifles are 16.5” now. You’ll still have enough velocity for reliable expansion to like 1000 yards with a 7prc in a 16” barrel.

 

[Timberline001]

Just be warned. Building tikkas is an addiction. I have 3 I’m currently putting together.

 

[TxLite]

And if you do need a smith the most I’ve been charged to remove the old barrel and install the prefit was $100.

Just as an FYI, I would not have the smith install the new barrel unless you just don’t have/want the tools/capability to DIY.

I went this route on my first one and the well respected smith gorilla torqued the barrel (or didn’t use anti-seize) and I ended up trashing my internal action wrench trying to get it back off when I wanted to do a barrel swap later. I had to take it back to the smith to have it removed so I could install the new barrel myself, and order a new action wrench.

Not saying this is everyone’s experience but the possibility exists

 

[CodyAK]

Just as an FYI, I would not have the smith install the new barrel unless you just don’t have/want the tools/capability to DIY.

I went this route on my first one and the well respected smith gorilla torqued the barrel (or didn’t use anti-seize) and I ended up trashing my internal action wrench trying to get it back off when I wanted to do a barrel swap later. I had to take it back to the smith to have it removed so I could install the new barrel myself, and order a new action wrench.

Not saying this is everyone’s experience but the possibility exists

Not to go off of a tangent but what else is needed besides torque wrench, barrel vice, action wrench, go/no gauges? I’ve been contemplating building my own. Doesn’t seem intimidating at all.

Similar to OP, wanting to build a 7 prc. Will run a can on it too. Building or having someone build is the only option I’d be happy with at this point… and if I use the tools more than once - I can justify the purchase.

 

[TxLite]

Not to go off of a tangent but what else is needed besides torque wrench, barrel vice, action wrench, go/no gauges? I’ve been contemplating building my own. Doesn’t seem intimidating at all.

Similar to OP, wanting to build a 7 prc. Will run a can on it too. Building or having someone build is the only option I’d be happy with at this point… and if I use the tools more than once - I can justify the purchase.

That’s all you need tools wise for install. Some guys have better luck with an external action wrench for barrel removal. Get an anti-seize as well. I use white lithium grease. My first go around I didn’t have the tools and wanted to let the smith handle it for $100. Second time around I went ahead and bought the tools and it worked out great for future use.


For the OP, I personally find it fun and rewarding to DIY a build and have it shoot great. I vote for the Tikka build.

 

[rockymtnsam]

Go the Tikka route, but go standard stainless lite. Ask someone here to help you switch the barrels — it’s easy. Eventually upgrade the stock if you want.

Try to sell the factory barrel to recoup some money.

And for gosh sakes go shorter than 22” if you’re going to suppress. All my rifles are 16.5” now. You’ll still have enough velocity for reliable expansion to like 1000 yards with a 7prc in a 16” barrel.

I'm looking at Proof but open to others, I don't know that Proof makes a CF barrel that short. I'm not too worried about velocity with shorter barrels since I typically hunt elk + mule deer and I'm never taking shots that far. Thanks for the info!

 

[atmat]

I'm looking at Proof but open to others, I don't know that Proof makes a CF barrel that short. I'm not too worried about velocity with shorter barrels since I typically hunt elk + mule deer and I'm never taking shots that far. Thanks for the info!

Check out any of the other barrel makers. If you’re paying $768, you can get a barrel made to your liking.

I have a PBB Lite Hybrid contour at 16.5”. It cost like $500 and came threaded. Some folks have had issues with PBB, but mine shoots great.

 

[HNTR918]

You can get a 18'' bolt action proof but not a tikka prefit.

 

[Overwire]

I’d just have Unknown Munitions chamber an ACE barrel in the factory Tikka lite contour at whatever length you want. It will be lighter than the proof and better attention to detail. Stiffer too if going less than 22”.

 

[Timberline001]

I'm looking at Proof but open to others, I don't know that Proof makes a CF barrel that short. I'm not too worried about velocity with shorter barrels since I typically hunt elk + mule deer and I'm never taking shots that far. Thanks for the info!

Carbonsix will run you about the same for a prefit and I’ve had amazing luck with their tikka prefits. You can completely customize it to what you want.

 

[rockymtnsam]

Called Proof and they said you can order an 18” blank and have it chambered. Not sure if I want to go that route and pay a gunsmith for the extra work. I’d almost rather deal with a slightly longer barrel and do a prefit.

 

[camelcluch]

I just spoke to my smith about something similar. Being a lefty, I can build a better gun for less than using a donor or buying someone similar.

 

[Randyb]

Use a standard $750 tikka for the action. No need to spend the extra on the roughtech. The only difference in the part you’re using is the fluted bolt and LRI will do that for you for $65

There’s really no need for a gunsmith for the tikka, it’s pretty easy to do yourself with the rentals here on rokslide for tools. And if you do need a smith the most I’ve been charged to remove the old barrel and install the prefit was $100. You can bed the Stockys yourself if need be but all the ones I’ve installed have shot phenomenal without bedding.

what rentals are you talking about?

 

[Timberline001]

There’s a tikka barrel swap thread with details