Tikka upgrades... help please!

[ChadS]

Hey guys I recently purchased a Tikka T3x Superlight .300WM. I wanted a backpack rifle in that caliber, so I am trying to keep it light. I am going to scope it and do some upgrades. When I started looking closer, I found that there are a ton of upgrade parts for it. So I will tell you what I for sure plan to do, and then maybe we can discuss other things that you guys with experience can recommend. I am not planning on building my own loads, and figure on shooting something close to a 180g Federal Premium Nosler partition, or whatever the gun likes best. I want to make it as accurate as reasonable, for a lightweight backpack hunting rifle.

FOR SURE Mods
-Limsaver Airtech
-Muzzle Brake (likely the Micro Bastard)

CONSIDERING
-Wildcat Composites stock
-New Bottom Metal
-Mountain Tactical Performance Trigger Spring
-Picatinny rail... vs Rings that mount direct to receiver
-Bolt fluting

Thanks for any input!

 

[tdhanses]

Pic rail will add weight, I’d go with Talley light weight rings.

 

[MTElkChaser]

I’ve always wanted the Spuhr mount designed for the Tikka dovetail. Has the integrated scope leveling wedge and built like a tank.

It’s only 5.4 ounces compared to the Talley rings/bases at 4 ounces.

https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/hunting/sakotikka/30/sct-3001a.html

 

[JonS]

If you’re buying factory loads, may I highly suggest the Barnes ttsx 165, that twist in that barrel is like a match made in heaven. And they kill elk purty darn good.
180’s didn’t fly as well in my tikka 300 win.
Give them a shot and thank me later.

 

[ChadS]

I’ve always wanted the Spuhr mount designed for the Tikka dovetail. Has the integrated scope leveling wedge and built like a tank.

It’s only 5.4 ounces compared to the Talley rings/bases at 4 ounces.

https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/hunting/sakotikka/30/sct-3001a.html

I assume that 10 degree wedge is to allow me to add MOA to the mount?

 

[MTElkChaser]

I assume that 10 degree wedge is to allow me to add MOA to the mount?

The 10 degree wedge comes with the mount and goes in the slot at the base of the mount to level your optic (flat at bottom of turret on your optic against the mount).

It’s only used to make sure your optic reticle is leveled.

Here’s a separate kit that shows the base and wedge for use on any Picatinny mount:

https://spuhrwebshop.com/en/spares/a-0080-81.html

A different company’s version - but shows how it works:

YouTube

 

[Yellowknife]

- Note that the Wildcat stock will drop quite a bit of weight at the rear of the gun and change the balance some. Unless you are pretty handy, you can figure on at least doubling the cost of that stock to have a gunsmith finish and paint it. It's also going to make that .300 SL have even more brutal recoil, so the muzzle break would be a high priority in my mind at that point. Nice stocks though. I really like mine.

- A rail is handy for several things, but on a dedicated lightweight I don't think they all really apply. I've used both (currently have a rail on it) and with a variety of good direct mount rings available, I'd go that way most of the time. The rail will add a couple oz, and makes it harder to get a low scope mount.

- If you think you need a lighter trigger, try adjusting the factory one first. Depends on the gun, but they can usually get pretty light by just turning the Allen screw.

- Bolt fluting is essentially cosmetic, so your choice, but I thought it added more places for dirt to get in the action and skipped it. Might just be my imagination.

 

[slowelk]

- If you think you need a lighter trigger, try adjusting the factory one first. Depends on the gun, but they can usually get pretty light by just turning the Allen screw.

I have a stock T3x SL in 30-06 with factory trigger at 1.5# without a spring, and there is no issue with it being too light.

With Mountain Tactical rail, Seekins Precision low rings, and a Leupold vx-5hd 2-10x42 and with a sling it comes in a 7.625# unloaded. That's plenty light for me.

Also, I'd be curious to know if anyone feels that the MT bottom metal is a functional improvement, or just an aesthetic one.

 

[tyeager2964]

I decided against the bottom metal. It is nice and has the theoretical improvement of not flexing as much during the shot.

Now if my tikka didnt usually group 3/4 MOA I might have tried it. Also it still might make my gun 5/8 or half MOA but there are no guarantees so I haven't jumped on it yet.

It's really up to you but most Tikkas will shoot just fine without the upgrades.

 

[eamyrick]

I have had good success with the Talley rings and have ordered bottom metal from MT but it hasn't come in yet. The plastic trigger guard just kind bothers me and a friend over tightened his with factory plastic and it caused some issues (user error). Other than that I am likely going to add the Grayboe Outlander when they become available. As others have said I don't see the advantage to bolt fluting and think the money is better spent. My stainless model did pick up rust pretty quickly so ceracote would be a nice addition.

 

[slowelk]

Agreed on the rust, I had mine cerakoted in tactical gray and it looks great.

 

[Yellowknife]

I have a stock T3x SL in 30-06 with factory trigger at 1.5# without a spring, and there is no issue with it being too light.

Mine will actually go below 1 lb pull weight, although I've never carried it that way. I suspect it varies by rifle, but certainly not all Tikka's have need replacement trigger spring.

 

[slowelk]

I was agreeing with you - that you don't need a spring to lighten the trigger. I certainly have room to lighten it more, but I have thought that below 1.5# you can enter the danger zone of accidental fire.

 

[davsco]

just received my t3x lefty 300wsm. i did back out the trigger screw as far as i could and got to just a skosh below 2#. went ahead and ordered a mt trigger spring just for yucks.

never heard about them rusting before, that sure sucks, esp with stainless!

i ordered a bunch of different ammo for it, will test it out once that and the leupold backcountry rings arrive.

 

[Muttly]

DNZ one piece be an easy and semi light alternative to a rail.. Put an Area 419 Hellfire on T3x 7 Mag, turned it into a total pussycat..
Will likely end up adding a Mtn Tactical bolt and such. Like the balance of the rifle, I have a McMillan Sako Hunter with enhanced edge fill somewhere in the pipeline for it, should be about the same weight as the plastic stock when it,s done..

- - - Updated - - -

And FWIW, don't think it's too much louder than stock with the brake, and you can almost see your bullet impact..
Course, could be the same as the truck turbos that have gotten progressively quieter over the years....

 

[davsco]

Put an Area 419 Hellfire on T3x 7 Mag, turned it into a total pussycat..

what threading did you do for your brake? is there a shoulder for it to set against, or was it rockset in or what? thanks!

 

[JimCraig]

Having owned 3 tikkas, I would advise against a trigger any lighter than the stock trigger will go. Less than 2 pounds on a lightweight hunting rig in 300 win mag is pretty sketchy. Also, I don't see the need for a rail. That adds weight and an extra point of failure, and on a rig like that I don't see the need to add MOA into a scope mount. Are you planning on shooting that lightweight rifle farther than your desired scope has adjustment for?

 

[TwoTikkas]

Having owned 3 tikkas, I would advise against a trigger any lighter than the stock trigger will go. Less than 2 pounds on a lightweight hunting rig in 300 win mag is pretty sketchy. Also, I don't see the need for a rail. That adds weight and an extra point of failure, and on a rig like that I don't see the need to add MOA into a scope mount. Are you planning on shooting that lightweight rifle farther than your desired scope has adjustment for?

I don't follow. What's the correlation between the trigger pull weight,and the chambering in a light weight rifle?

 

[JimCraig]

It’s a light rifle with a lot of recoil. Since it’s a hunting rifle there’s a good chance that the shooter could be wearing gloves, and breathing heavy, amped up, etc. when he takes a shot at an animal. Sometimes a shot needs to happen quickly. So given all those variables, with a sub 2lb trigger it would be very easy to break the trigger prematurely or accidentally. I understand that in a perfect world those things can be mitigated, but in my experience the perfect scenario just doesn’t present itself very often. Hope that helps explain my comments.

 

[fightthenoise]

It sounds like all that logic, while sound, applies to all rifles with light triggers regardless of chambering.