Tikka T3X Failure to Fire

When you see brass, especially cheap brass, sized based on a gauge that is not your chamber for measurements, chances are those pieces got over sized and are causing your problems.

Oversized brass will cause exactly what you’re seeing. There will almost always be variation in sized brass, and varying amounts of spring back.
Agree, however when I was in the middle of trying to figure this out, I sized and measured each case to make sure it was +/-.001 using a Wilson chamber gauge, the spin on type gauge vs my comparator set. The Wilson gauge has SAMI marking to indicate 0. I really like the Wilson to measure, it’s slower than my comparator and calipers but very repeatable.
 
Make it a bit less tight?

That's what id do. It being tough to close means something is being stretched or squeezed. At best, it means you have almost no tolerance on the tight side. When things start getting that tight, it doesnt take much of anything to cause problems. It might be such that just having some dust on the case means fhe difference between full closure and not. Its not likely THAT tight, but you get the point. Tolerance stacking is likely what's getting you.
 
Agree, however when I was in the middle of trying to figure this out, I sized and measured each case to make sure it was +/-.001 using a Wilson chamber gauge, the spin on type gauge vs my comparator set. The Wilson gauge has SAMI marking to indicate 0. I really like the Wilson to measure, it’s slower than my comparator and calipers but ver
I’d put next to zero merit in the Wilson gauge. Iv got a few in the scrap metal bucket.

I’d be measuring with a comparator and going from there. I’d also not touch verified saami minimum chamber.
 
I kept saying Wilson, but meant Whidden. I agree with you on the Wilson. This is the gauge I’m talking about. What would you do to measure the shoulder when installing the barrel?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8029.png
    IMG_8029.png
    465.7 KB · Views: 4
Mechanically, can someone explain why a tight chamber would lead to FTF’s, I would expect a tight chamber to eliminate those issues? Factory brass fits, my reloads fit with no issues. I can’t get my head around why if I I increased the headspace .001 would accomplish anything in this actual issue. I know it’s a variable but I don’t see what changing it would do.
 
Mechanically, can someone explain why a tight chamber would lead to FTF’s, I would expect a tight chamber to eliminate those issues? Factory brass fits, my reloads fit with no issues. I can’t get my head around why if I I increased the headspace .001 would accomplish anything in this actual issue. I know it’s a variable but I don’t see what changing it would do.
In and of itself, a tight chamber wouldn't cause those issues. But tight chambering, such that the bolt doesn't close and cock the FP spring all the way, could. As could over-sizing your brass and creating excess headspace, even with a tight chamber.

While I agree that correcting the headspace issue would be a good idea, it's a known issue for primers that are not fully seated in somewhat loose pockets to cause FTFs, as the FP uses its momentum to seat the primer while also denting it, decreasing the impulse of the primer material itself (i.e., reducing the rate of deformation that causes ignition). It would be interesting to measure the seating depth of the primers that failed to fire versus those that fired correctly. It could be caused by variance in primer pocket tightness combined with primers not being fully seated, any maybe even combined with excess headspace from oversizing or a bolt not full closed and FP spring not fully cocked, for some serious tolerance stacking.
 
I guess if I pull the barrel, where/how would I set it? Use the gauge but a little more?
The bolt should close without any effort on the GO gauge, and should not close at all on the NO-GO gauge.

As was said, screw the barrel lightly snug against the GO gauge, and just back off a hair to reduce the snug fit. Tighten the barrel nut and check fit with both gauges.
 
Mechanically, can someone explain why a tight chamber would lead to FTF’s

Tolerance stacking. Your go gauge is indicating that at best your chamber is exactly at minimum length. Primer slightly above flush, slight bur on the case face, countless other things could prevent the bolt closing fully on those rounds.

Dont take the barrel off if you found a load that works reliably enough to satisfy you. By all indications your chamber is at best minimum length, which to me is too short. Theres probably a 0.015" or more tolerance on chamber length for that caliber.
 
All right at 1.75". Not much difference, this is prepped brass brought from SAGE's, which is sized, trimmed and ready to go. I didn't run it though any die, which I would say is the problem, except, I had the FTF with factory as well.
Not trying to talk crap on SAGE, however I just got 1000 pieces of the LC brass. It's not all that consistent for me. Using dial calipers to measure the cases I have a couple that are less than 1.75 trim to length but most are over some up to 1.758. I went to trim them on a my Frankfort Arsenal brass prep station, it wouldn't trim them due to the pilot on the trimmer not fitting inside the case. I've been working on sizing and trimming them this past week. Once I run them through my FL RCBS die they fit over the pilot on the cutter.

The primer pocket came swagged, but since I'm already trimming the cases I've been cutting the primer pockets with a RCBS cutter. Basically fully processing them again except for tumbling.

I've only loaded about 100 rounds with the LC cases, shot about 50 of those with no issue. Don't know if that helps you any, while priming I have noticed maybe one or two that took less effort to seat the primer with a Lee hand primer.
 
Back
Top