Tikka spins in barrel vise

[MThuntr]

I have a Tikka in 243 that is going to become a 22 Creedmoor. Currently this barrel and action are cerakoted making them slick as heck. I'm having a hell of a time getting my Viper barrel vise to hold onto the barrel without it spinning. I took a utility knife around the barrel/action junction to make sure cerakote isn't holding. I've tried some heat, free-all, and percussive persuasion and nothing with break it free. At first I used a leather pad for grip then added some resin. I tried torquing the hell out of barrel vise with and without gripping material.

Any ideas? Way more heat?

Edit: a friend suggested cutting the top of the barrel vise down the middle to increase its ability to move to the contour.

 

[HuntHarder]

I have done quite a few Tikka T3's with a viper. I use drywall tape on the barrel for grip. Tighten the vice insanely tight, then go a little more. I use a cheater bar on my wheeler external wrench. I then hit that wrench with a dead blow to cause a quick impact. When i first started, I used to soak the barrel threads in penetraiting oil for days. I since have learned, that really isn't needed. The t3x's are considerably easier than the T3's.

As far as cutting the vice, I believe @hereinaz did that to his and he said it helped. I havnt seen a need to do that yet, but imagine it would help. I would just make sure to smooth the edges of the cut to prevent scratching the new barrel with a sharp edge.

 

[Sully_44]

I soaked mine in 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF overnight, then put it in my viper as tight as I could with tape on the barrel. Used a breaker bar and the threads broke free fairly easily.

 

[wpeach1912]

I have a sac bravo and use their bushings with drywall tape. Tighten with the long end of harbor freight T handle Allen, put the wheeler external wrench on, and hit twice with a dead blow. I’m 2/2 so far. Maybe dry wall tape will help? Being better matched to the contour will help too. The tikka sporter contour is pretty aggressively tapered near the shank

 

[Axlrod]

I've done a few cetakoted Tikkas .
I use a wire wheel on a angle grinder to remove the cerakote. All so called barrel vices suck. I use a hydraulic press and inserts from power custom, or I make the inserts. Barrels do not spin with 10 tons of pressure on them.

 

[naked wombats]

I've used the paper drywall tape as well.
Definitely tighten and tighten again.
Then smack the crap out of the wrench.
Might need to retorque the vise after the first whack.

 

[Shadowbandd]

A little unorthodox but I ended up coating my barrel in cold honey. Made it sticky enough with the drywall tape and it came right off.
Easy to wash off when done too.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Yep, drywall tape, tighten the vice down to the point that you think you are going to break it and then go a bit more. I use a 24" breaker bar to tighten the nuts on mine.

An external wrench and a dead blow hammer are a must. Set it up so you can hit the wrench downward with the dead blow. Don't use a regular hammer as it will rebound and not get as much force into the action wrench. If you don't have a deadblow, go to Harbor Freight and pick one up for $15.

 

[43.6N]

Yep, drywall tape, tighten the vice down to the point that you think you are going to break it and then go a bit more. I use a 24" breaker bar to tighten the nuts on mine.

An external wrench and a dead blow hammer are a must. Set it up so you can hit the wrench downward with the dead blow. Don't use a regular hammer as it will rebound and not get as much force into the action wrench. If you don't have a deadblow, go to Harbor Freight and pick one up for $15.

My go-to smacker is a 20lb rubber dumbbell. Haven’t had one yet stand up to that puppy

 

[eLightfoot]

I’ve removed several in a way less than ideal set up and not had a problem. The key is to get the vice clamped tight right on the shank next to the action. Get the two bolts closest to the action super tight. Get the other two that sit over the taper just snug but not tight enough to remove clamping force from the shank. Put the action wrench right up to the end of the action almost butting the barrel vice. Do not over tighten the barrel vice. It will distort the action and clamp down on the tennon threads. Just snug, it won’t slip.
Put downward steady pressure (weight) on the wrench handle in the loosen direction and then hit the end of the wrench handle with a 5lb mini sledge a few times. It should pop loose

 

[Steve300xcw]

I used drywall tape on mine. Wouldnt be afraid of some fine grit sandpaper if I was getting impatient