Tikka slam fire PSA

[mxgsfmdpx]

The rifle made in Riihimäk and its trigger issues makes me scared to buy one for the kids. This thread makes me chuckle after all the belly aching about the Remington pattern guns. lol

The only instances of it being an issue, in what I've seen, is when it is altered from factory.

Comparing Rem 700 trigger to a Sako/Tikka trigger is crazy.

 

[svivian]

 

[atmat]

I’ve been off Rokslide most of fall, but good to see TaperPin still being a troll.

 

[TaperPin]

I’ve been off Rokslide most of fall, but good to see TaperPin still being a troll.

I’m glad you’re back!

 

[mtnbound]

If you’re the paranoid type and don’t trust the factory assembly or don’t know the history of a particular rifle, by all means feel free to stick an Allen wrench in it to make sure it’s tight. OR you could be a real overachiever and pull it off, dab on some locktight, and tighten it.

Takes some specialized tools and know how:
- 1 metric Allen wrench
- grasp of the saying “righty tighty, lefty loosy”

And for the super paranoid types a witness mark and because this is my rifle I guess I fall into that category, oh well it gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling.

 

[Wrench]

The only instances of it being an issue, in what I've seen, is when it is altered from factory.

Comparing Rem 700 trigger to a Sako/Tikka trigger is crazy.

To be fair when the tikka kool-aid was being served, the usual spokespersons said the winchester m70 trigger was un reliable. It's literally the simplest trigger ever made.....and you can visually see the sear faces and measure the engagement. The bolt is the safety.....it's near impossible to fail.

 

[Wrench]

Can someone please link to the precise Loctite product you would recommend for a screw like this? Going to proactively apply to all my Tikka's.

I'm shocked that this hasn't been suggested....Fingernail polish.

 

[Macintosh]

I'm shocked that this hasn't been suggested....Fingernail polish.

“Featuring 8 new high energy and pigmented shades, this collection captures bold expressive colors with no boundaries“

so you prefer this to Sinful Colors which, surprisingly, apparently has boundaries?

 

[Wrench]

so you prefer this to Sinful Colors which, surprisingly, apparently has boundaries?

I usually stick to thread locking compound....but I'm still learning.

 

[TaperPin]

And for the super paranoid types a witness mark and because this is my rifle I guess I fall into that category, oh well it gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling.

I like that.

 

[stooxie]

I use a little C clamp on the trigger housing to keep the magazine spring perfectly aligned, then I can adequately torque the bolt without it twisting.

-Stooxie

 

[Marbles]

This shouldn't happen if the safety is on as there is a pin that blocks the firing pin when activated. But if the safety is not on, and the trigger assembly has been altered from factory spec/loose, I can see how it could fire on bolt close.

That pin only goes into the bolt body, it doesn't interact with the firing pin in and way.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I found an issue today when putting together another Tikka 22 Creedmoor I just got back from the smith.

Using a high desert bottom metal (I’ve used over a dozen on Tikkas and none have had this particular issue so far) I was getting a fire on close of the bolt once torqued down. Even on very light action screw torque values (30” lbs).

After pulling my hair out for a couple hours I noticed the rectangle cut out for the trigger itself was VERY close to the trigger. It was, in fact, after getting good light and camera on it, touching the trigger ever so slightly and causing the gun to fire on bolt close.

I filed the rectangle trigger cut out until I had a significant enough gap in between the trigger and cut out. Issue is 100% resolved.

If you use an aftermarket bottom metal, ensure of two things…

1: The trigger isn’t touching the trigger guard anywhere, ensure minimum 1/16” of clearance on all sides.

2: The action screws aren’t slightly protruding when fully torqued down. You’ll need a good light to check the front. Pull the bolt and easily check the rear. File them down as needed.

Another reason that the factory plastic is the most reliable solution for these guns.

 

[NSI]

I found an issue today when putting together another Tikka 22 Creedmoor I just got back from the smith.

Using a high desert bottom metal (I’ve used over a dozen on Tikkas and none have had this particular issue so far) I was getting a fire on close of the bolt once torqued down. Even on very light action screw torque values (30” lbs).

After pulling my hair out for a couple hours I noticed the rectangle cut out for the trigger itself was VERY close to the trigger. It was, in fact, after getting good light and camera on it, touching the trigger ever so slightly and causing the gun to fire on bolt close.

I filed the rectangle trigger cut out until I had a significant enough gap in between the trigger and cut out. Issue is 100% resolved.

If you use an aftermarket bottom metal, ensure of two things…

1: The trigger isn’t touching the trigger guard anywhere, ensure minimum 1/16” of clearance on all sides.

2: The action screws aren’t slightly protruding when fully torqued down. You’ll need a good light to check the front. Pull the bolt and easily check the rear. File them down as needed.

Another reason that the factory plastic is the most reliable solution for these guns.

I believe the HD Midas Cut solves this issue.

-J

 

[DrMEMS]

I have a Tikka T3x light. I had the barrel shortened, fluted, and threaded. I put a Stocky carbon fiber stock on.
I was on a pig hunt recently. I chambered a round but didn’t fire. When I put the safety on, it fired by itself. The guys thought I had my finger on the trigger but I didn’t. Thankfully I always keep the muzzle pointed a safe direction. Later I put the safety on again but had everyone watch. It fired again. “Terrifying” is how several people described it. The gun was clean and the temperature was about 50 degrees F.
Later at home with snap caps I could reproduce this every time I put on the safety. I removed the trigger guard and stock and found that the single Allen bolt that holds the trigger assembly on had unscrewed about 1.5 turns. I tightened it up and the issue was fixed.
I was wondering whether this was due to the aftermarket aluminum trigger guard or CF stock, so I completely removed them. I was able to loosen the Allen bolt and, with the trigger assembly just wrong, could make it fire again by activating the safety. I have a video but cannot post it here. This proves that it was not an issue with my mods. I have now added thread locker and cranked the bolt down tighter.
I must have caused this by not sufficiently tightening the bolt after I got the barrel back from shortening. Still, I don’t understand how any trigger-safety assembly could be designed so that this could ever happen.

 

[MagnumHntr]

I have a Tikka T3x light. I had the barrel shortened, fluted, and threaded. I put a Stocky carbon fiber stock on.
I was on a pig hunt recently. I chambered a round but didn’t fire. When I put the safety on, it fired by itself. The guys thought I had my finger on the trigger but I didn’t. Thankfully I always keep the muzzle pointed a safe direction. Later I put the safety on again but had everyone watch. It fired again. “Terrifying” is how several people described it. The gun was clean and the temperature was about 50 degrees F.
Later at home with snap caps I could reproduce this every time I put on the safety. I removed the trigger guard and stock and found that the single Allen bolt that holds the trigger assembly on had unscrewed about 1.5 turns. I tightened it up and the issue was fixed.
I was wondering whether this was due to the aftermarket aluminum trigger guard or CF stock, so I completely removed them. I was able to loosen the Allen bolt and, with the trigger assembly just wrong, could make it fire again by activating the safety. I have a video but cannot post it here. This proves that it was not an issue with my mods. I have now added thread locker and cranked the bolt down tighter.
I must have caused this by not sufficiently tightening the bolt after I got the barrel back from shortening. Still, I don’t understand how any trigger-safety assembly could be designed so that this could ever happen.

This is why a competent gunsmith should only be working on a rifle if removing or installing the fire control group. Or you leave a tikka alone as they come from the factory properly torqued. Hopefully you didn't install an aftermarket trigger spring also.

 

[TaperPin]

 

[NSI]

Bud, you’ve got to crank down the trigger screw or this will happen. It’s very well established. Also not to argue semantics, but while the nature of your mods didn’t cause this issue, the fact that you did them (without correctly reassembling) is indeed the root cause of your ND.

-J

I have a Tikka T3x light. I had the barrel shortened, fluted, and threaded. I put a Stocky carbon fiber stock on.
I was on a pig hunt recently. I chambered a round but didn’t fire. When I put the safety on, it fired by itself. The guys thought I had my finger on the trigger but I didn’t. Thankfully I always keep the muzzle pointed a safe direction. Later I put the safety on again but had everyone watch. It fired again. “Terrifying” is how several people described it. The gun was clean and the temperature was about 50 degrees F.
Later at home with snap caps I could reproduce this every time I put on the safety. I removed the trigger guard and stock and found that the single Allen bolt that holds the trigger assembly on had unscrewed about 1.5 turns. I tightened it up and the issue was fixed.
I was wondering whether this was due to the aftermarket aluminum trigger guard or CF stock, so I completely removed them. I was able to loosen the Allen bolt and, with the trigger assembly just wrong, could make it fire again by activating the safety. I have a video but cannot post it here. This proves that it was not an issue with my mods. I have now added thread locker and cranked the bolt down tighter.
I must have caused this by not sufficiently tightening the bolt after I got the barrel back from shortening. Still, I don’t understand how any trigger-safety assembly could be designed so that this could ever happen.

 

[Southern Lights]

Amazing how in all my years of owning Sakos and Tikkas, and all the people I know with them, they never have had this happen.

However, they all have one thing in common: They don't mess around with the factory rifle.

 

[DrMEMS]

This is why a competent gunsmith should only be working on a rifle if removing or installing the fire control group. Or you leave a tikka alone as they come from the factory properly torqued. Hopefully you didn't install an aftermarket trigger spring also.

Stock trigger. Pull not adjusted.