Tikka MYSTERY

mmw194287

WKR
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Jun 20, 2013
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817
Apologies for the click-baity thread title. Running into an issue with a Tikka that won't go bang. I need help and thought I'd see if anyone here can provide insight. I've included as much detail as I can (even a few things that are likely irrelevant).

I purchased a Tikka T3 SS chambered in 270 Winchester from the used gun inventory on Cabelas.com.

When it arrived, I did not test fire it. I immediately pulled the barrel and replaced it with a stainless factory barrel from a T3x chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. I torqued the barrel at 75 ft/lbs and checked headspace with a sized case and piece of tape. The bolt would not close on the tape, but closed on the case alone. I've swapped a half-dozen or so Tikka barrels and have followed this same protocol without issue.

On the first trip to the range, two of the three cartridges failed to fire. The primer strikes were very light and shallow. On the round that did fire, the primer was extruded. This was factory loaded ammunition from Nosler.

First, I double-checked the headspace with a set of Forster go/no-go gauges, and everything looked okay there. The bolt would not close with the no-go gauge. I even sent video of the test to a gunsmith friend, who confirmed that the headspace looked fine.

I then removed the firing pin and sprayed it down with brake cleaner, and sprayed the interior of the bolt body with brake cleaner. I also ran some patches into the bolt body to check for any sort of build up. Visually, the firing pin assembly looks fine.

After this, I tried firing two rounds, which both failed to fire. The primers showed the same shallow strikes as I saw in the first rounds. This time I tried one factory loaded round from Nosler as well as a handload from my other Tikka.

I then swapped the firing pin assembly with the firing pin assembly from a RH Tikka T3x (the malfunctioning rifle is the only LH Tikka I own). This, I hoped, would show that there was an issue with the original firing pin spring. Again, this time, one of three rounds failed to fire. Again, the primers look the same. The included photo shows the primers from the two fired cases and the one FTF.

When I remove the bolt and compare it to another with the firing pin released, the firing pin from the non-functioning bolt seems to protrude further from the bolt face than the firing pin from the functioning bolt.

My next step (and only other idea?) is to find a complete LH bolt assembly and try dropping that into the rifle. It seems as though the issue lies somewhere in the bolt body, firing pin hole, etc.

Does anyone have any theories, or suggestions as to what I'm experiencing or what else I can try? Alternatively, if you have a LH Tikka bolt with a .473 face somewhere in Bozeman, Billings, etc., I would appreciate the opportunity to test fire this rifle with your bolt assembly.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

IMG_2178.jpg
 
How about swapping triggers? If nothing else, you could isolate that part from the equation.

How does the rifle cycle rounds?

I can’t help ya with a bolt as I only have RH Tikkas.
 
The trigger from my RH rifles has the safety on the wrong side…not sure if I could pull the safety and swap it in?


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Apologies for the click-baity thread title. Running into an issue with a Tikka that won't go bang. I need help and thought I'd see if anyone here can provide insight. I've included as much detail as I can (even a few things that are likely irrelevant).

I purchased a Tikka T3 SS chambered in 270 Winchester from the used gun inventory on Cabelas.com.

When it arrived, I did not test fire it. I immediately pulled the barrel and replaced it with a stainless factory barrel from a T3x chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. I torqued the barrel at 75 ft/lbs and checked headspace with a sized case and piece of tape. The bolt would not close on the tape, but closed on the case alone. I've swapped a half-dozen or so Tikka barrels and have followed this same protocol without issue.

On the first trip to the range, two of the three cartridges failed to fire. The primer strikes were very light and shallow. On the round that did fire, the primer was extruded. This was factory loaded ammunition from Nosler.

First, I double-checked the headspace with a set of Forster go/no-go gauges, and everything looked okay there. The bolt would not close with the no-go gauge. I even sent video of the test to a gunsmith friend, who confirmed that the headspace looked fine.

I then removed the firing pin and sprayed it down with brake cleaner, and sprayed the interior of the bolt body with brake cleaner. I also ran some patches into the bolt body to check for any sort of build up. Visually, the firing pin assembly looks fine.

After this, I tried firing two rounds, which both failed to fire. The primers showed the same shallow strikes as I saw in the first rounds. This time I tried one factory loaded round from Nosler as well as a handload from my other Tikka.

I then swapped the firing pin assembly with the firing pin assembly from a RH Tikka T3x (the malfunctioning rifle is the only LH Tikka I own). This, I hoped, would show that there was an issue with the original firing pin spring. Again, this time, one of three rounds failed to fire. Again, the primers look the same. The included photo shows the primers from the two fired cases and the one FTF.

When I remove the bolt and compare it to another with the firing pin released, the firing pin from the non-functioning bolt seems to protrude further from the bolt face than the firing pin from the functioning bolt.

My next step (and only other idea?) is to find a complete LH bolt assembly and try dropping that into the rifle. It seems as though the issue lies somewhere in the bolt body, firing pin hole, etc.

Does anyone have any theories, or suggestions as to what I'm experiencing or what else I can try? Alternatively, if you have a LH Tikka bolt with a .473 face somewhere in Bozeman, Billings, etc., I would appreciate the opportunity to test fire this rifle with your bolt assembly.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

View attachment 937990
Did you shoot any of these rounds in the other rifle?
 
Shoulder on the brass for factory ammois too far back? Put a piece of tape on your brass (loaded ammo)until the bolt won’t close and could give you an idea if the shoulder is too far back causing excessive headspace even though it checks out with a go/no-go gauge. Factory ammo sometimes has the shoulder formed a bit too far back.
 
I assume you pulled the trigger off when you swapped barrels, correct? If so, have you confirmed that it was reinstalled correctly?
Yep, should have mentioned that--I'll pulled everything apart (except for the action + barrel) and put it back together again.

Is it in a factory stock? If the bolt handle isn't closed down enough you will get like strikes.
Yep, I read about guys having an issue with the bolt handle not being fully closed, since the first outing I've been very cognizant of closing the bolt completely and it hasn't made a difference.

Did you shoot any of these rounds in the other rifle?
Yep, both the handloads and the factory rounds shoot just fine in two other Tikka 6.5s.

Put the original barrel back on and shoot it. See if you have the same issues?
I put a relief cut in it, so that's no longer an option.

Shoulder on the brass for factory ammo is too far back? Put a piece of tape on your brass (loaded ammo)until the bolt won’t close and could give you an idea if the shoulder is too far back causing excessive headspace even though it checks out with a go/no-go gauge. Factory ammo sometimes has the shoulder formed a bit too far back.
The factory and handloads show the same issue, both fire just fine in other Tikkas and show normal primer strikes.

Try different ammo
I've tried handloads and factory ammo that show the same issue with the primer strikes. Both function fine in multiple other rifles.
 
This is a long shot, but I had a light striking Tikka that turned out to have the front screw in the scope mount out of spec. It protruded down into the action and contacted the bolt... worth checking?
 
Since the issue happened with a "replacement" firing pin assembly as well, I would check your LH bolt body, specifically the firing pin hole for a burr. If you have a magnifying glass, you can check both firing pins for evidence of something scraping against them to check that as well.
And just for my confirmation, when you stated that the "primers were extruded" you are talking about the ring that is visible in the pictures, not that the primers were pushed out of the primer pockets, correct? The ring is indicative of the firing pin not fully protruding so that the primer can flow back through the hole, around the primer.
 
This is a long shot, but I had a light striking Tikka that turned out to have the front screw in the scope mount out of spec. It protruded down into the action and contacted the bolt... worth checking?

Bingo. The front mount screw from a set of Talleys was visibly protruding into the action.

I loosened it a few turns and the firing pin indent on the primer looks totally normal now.

Going to slap everything back together and test fire away. Fingers crossed—thanks!


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