Tikka bolt stuck!

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Glad you got it solved but don't leave oil in the bolt body like that.

I clean with lighter fluid. No additional lube on the pin or spring.

I spray the firing pin with dry lube or one shot cleaner (which leaves behind dry lube). So there isn’t anything to gum up but there is a lil something for shits and grins.

 

[NealS02]

Oh, I for sure will keep the firing pin nice dry. I feel like an idiot for having asked all this, but I’ve owned a lot of rifles and never had anything similar previously where the bolt would only open with a hammer. Beretta even said they recommended sending it in. Thanks again for all the help. It is genuinely appreciated with a late season elk hunt three weeks away.

 

[BBob]

If you'd bother to read at all, you'd know the other Tikka was modified and not factory. You can now guess again......

Cool story bro!

 

[wind gypsy]

Anyone else getting twitchy seeing that blade on @Carl Ross knife? Old trusty looks like it had a good run, its time to embrace the other side or a fresh one.

That one is just getting broken in..

Glad you got it solved but don't leave oil in the bolt body like that.

I clean with lighter fluid. No additional lube on the pin or spring.

Yep. @NealS02 The (lengthy) vid in this thread has a lot of stuff about bolt cleaning/lube with good explanations. https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/ignition-tuning-and-bolt-maint.423349/

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Oh, I for sure will keep the firing pin nice dry. I feel like an idiot for having asked all this, but I’ve owned a lot of rifles and never had anything similar previously where the bolt would only open with a hammer. Beretta even said they recommended sending it in. Thanks again for all the help. It is genuinely appreciated with a late season elk hunt three weeks away.

I had a post in the past after I got an action back from nitride wondering what the hell happened to it cause the cocking force was so high (not hammer level but hard), it needed the cocking ramp lubed. I had never ran into that previously so it was similarly concerning and similar resultant "DUH" feeling after. Now its on my radar anytime someone mentions hard cocking.

Glad you're back in action (pun intended).

 

[wind gypsy]

You probably never removed the factory oil from the firing pin assembly and now it’s rusted shut. This can happen after firing or dry firing.

I’ve seen this on multiple occasions on guns with minimal use and coastal climates. The bad combo is factory oil, minimal use (sitting in a safe), and then out into humid climates.

You end up with something like this…

View attachment 948285

 

[Bado20]

You probably never removed the factory oil from the firing pin assembly and now it’s rusted shut. This can happen after firing or dry firing.

I’ve seen this on multiple occasions on guns with minimal use and coastal climates. The bad combo is factory oil, minimal use (sitting in a safe), and then out into humid climates.

You end up with something like this…

View attachment 948285

I’ve seen this happen as well, same thing lots of time out on the coast while only being shot minimally.

 

[Marbles]

Personally, I use a quality oil design to leave a thin film on my bolt internals. M Pro-7 or Battle Born are rated to low temps and I have used them dow to -20 F without issues.

I use a quality grease on the cocking ramp, XF-7 or Battle Born are my two choices there. Same thing, no issues down to -20 F and the battle born is rated down to -80 F or so.

For colder ratings than that you start getting into toxic compounds that I prefer not to use

Quality oil and grease do not attract dirt.

I live an a moderately wet costal climate and hunt in truly wet costal climates. Not everyone needs to do as I do.