Tikka barrel swap

[Matt5266]

I'm completely new to swapping barrels. I have Tikkas I just havnt removed barrels yet. I'm excited about the whole idea though. Is there a list that shows barrel faces that will work with other cartridges? Do I need a whole new bolt? Bolt face opened up? I assume I would need a new bolt release at the very least?

I'm looking to spin off a 3006 barrel and wanting to get a 22 Creedmoor. Not sure how much it is going to take as far as swapping parts, aside from a new barrel obviously.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

A pic for attention. T3X 18' .223. waiting for a Rokstock.

 

[z987k]

I'm completely new to swapping barrels. I have Tikkas I just havnt removed barrels yet. I'm excited about the whole idea though. Is there a list that shows barrel faces that will work with other cartridges? Do I need a whole new bolt? Bolt face opened up? I assume I would need a new bolt release at the very least?

I'm looking to spin off a 3006 barrel and wanting to get a 22 Creedmoor. Not sure how much it is going to take as far as swapping parts, aside from a new barrel obviously.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

A pic for attention. T3X 18' .223. waiting for a Rokstock.

New barrel is all that is needed for that. You could do the short action bolt stop and magazine if you want but you don't have to. Short action cartridges feed fine from full sized tikka magazines.

 

[awpk03s]

If you’re doing it yourself vs sending to a smith, you just need the basic tools, a good barrel vise mounted to a sturdy surface, and an action wrench.

However, my advice would be for removal of a factory barrel, I use a Brownells Universal external action wrench. For spinning the new barrel on I switch and use an internal action wrench available from various smiths.

Tips for removing the barrel:

- you never know how much loctite was put in at the factory so apply some heat from a heat gun might be helpful.
- use a 3’ section of steel pipe as a cheater over the handle of your action wrench.
- use a dead blow hammer for a few impacts on said handle, I have found the impact helps get you started. Just a few knocks.
- inside the barrel vise, coat that sucker with brown sugar. Crank it down as tight as absolutely possible. For me this is the only thing that works to prevent the barrel slipping and spinning in the vise. Strips of leather, etc will just get destroyed. Brown sugar.

 

[SamsonMan22]

A good barrel vice, an internal action wrench, something for an external wrench to break the barrel free, and a torque wrench wouldn’t hurt. A set of headspace gauges wouldn’t hurt, I have never had a factory take off be out of spec but I know after market Prefits from some manufactures can be a gamble there.

I have changed a bunch of them with one of the eBay internal action wrenches it seems to work fine. I am using the SAC barrel vice, it’s the cheaper one I think it’s called a bravo or something like that. For the external wrench I just made my own crude one from some 1” aluminum bar stock and a couple bolts, no pretty but works great and provides a lot of clamping power and leverage. I have never had to heat one or use a hammer to break it free, they just spin right off. I’m just wrapping the barrel with some heavy paper and using the right bushings in my vice, without any slippage.

On the rifle side a short action bolt stop and M or M+ mags. As said above it will work with your long action bolt stop you currently have as well. I haven’t used any long action mags with short action cartridges so I can’t comment on that.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Some good advice on how to remove the barrels has been given here. The only thing I will add is that I use drywall tape wrapped around my barrel and action to 1) get grip and 2) prevent marring. I am 5-5 so far using that .

To answer your question about what bolt faces go with what cartridges, here is a very brief summary in regards to Tikka actions only.

1. 0.378" bolt face: This is for the 223 family of cartridges (223, 6X45, 7TCU, etc.). It uses .223 magazines and a short bolt stop (bolt release).
2. 0.445" bolt face: This is for the ARC/Grendel/PPC family of cartridges (22 ARC, 6ARC, 6.5 Grendel, 6 PPC, etc). You can also use it for 6.8SPC, however it will be slightly oversized for that as the 6.8SPC bolt head is 0.422". Tikka does not make a factory bolt in this size. In order to get it, you will need to have the 0.378" bolt opened up, or have the 0.473" bolt modified with a bushing, both of which can be done by a good smith. For these cartridges, your best bet for reliable feeding is to put the rifle in a chassis and use Accurate or MDT magazines designed for the ARC/Grendel. Short bolt stop.
3. 0.473" bolt face: This is where we can have either short action or long action cartridges. It is the most common of the bolt face diameters and is used for the 308/Creedmoor and 30-06 family of cartridges and all of the variants thereof ( all of the Creedmoor cartridges, .243, .260Rem, 7-08, 358 Win, 338 Fed, all of the BR family, 25-06, 280 Rem, 338-06, etc). The difference is whether you use the short action bolt stop and magazines (308 family) or the long action bolt stop and magazines (30-06 family). There are plenty of wildcats that have been developed using this bolt face diameter as well.
4. 0.540" bolt face: Also known as the Mag bolt face. This is for the belted and non-belted "magnum" cartridges, such as the 7RM, 300WM, the PRC family, etc. For these, it is most common to use the long bolt stop and long action magazines, even though the 6.5 PRC is billed as a short action cartridge. It benefits from loading it long.

There are a couple of bolt face diameters larger than the 0.540", but they will not work with Tikka actions. If you want a more comprehensive list of what chamberings will work with each of the bolt faces, a bit of Google-Fu will lead you down the right path.

 

[Matt5266]

Thanks all for the responses. I have read several posts on here as well as Dioni's write up on it so I understand the process. I was mostly curious as to what all would need swapped out to take the 3006 to a 22 Creedmoor. I could not find much info on bolt sizes and faces, like what cartridges can work with the same bolts.

If I only need to swap the barrel and possibly get a new mag and bolt release that would be awesome.

 

[Matt5266]

Some good advice on how to remove the barrels has been given here. The only thing I will add is that I use drywall tape wrapped around my barrel and action to 1) get grip and 2) prevent marring. I am 5-5 so far using that .

To answer your question about what bolt faces go with what cartridges, here is a very brief summary in regards to Tikka actions only.

1. 0.378" bolt face: This is for the 223 family of cartridges (223, 6X45, 7TCU, etc.). It uses .223 magazines and a short bolt stop (bolt release).
2. 0.445" bolt face: This is for the ARC/Grendel/PPC family of cartridges (22 ARC, 6ARC, 6.5 Grendel, 6 PPC, etc). You can also use it for 6.8SPC, however it will be slightly oversized for that as the 6.8SPC bolt head is 0.422". Tikka does not make a factory bolt in this size. In order to get it, you will need to have the 0.378" bolt opened up, or have the 0.473" bolt modified with a bushing, both of which can be done by a good smith. For these cartridges, your best bet for reliable feeding is to put the rifle in a chassis and use Accurate or MDT magazines designed for the ARC/Grendel. Short bolt stop.
3. 0.473" bolt face: This is where we can have either short action or long action cartridges. It is the most common of the bolt face diameters and is used for the 308/Creedmoor and 30-06 family of cartridges and all of the variants thereof ( all of the Creedmoor cartridges, .243, .260Rem, 7-08, 358 Win, 338 Fed, all of the BR family, 25-06, 280 Rem, 338-06, etc). The difference is whether you use the short action bolt stop and magazines (308 family) or the long action bolt stop and magazines (30-06 family). There are plenty of wildcats that have been developed using this bolt face diameter as well.
4. 0.540" bolt face: Also known as the Mag bolt face. This is for the belted and non-belted "magnum" cartridges, such as the 7RM, 300WM, the PRC family, etc. For these, it is most common to use the long bolt stop and long action magazines, even though the 6.5 PRC is billed as a short action cartridge. It benefits from loading it long.

There are a couple of bolt face diameters larger than the 0.540", but they will not work with Tikka actions. If you want a more comprehensive list of what chamberings will work with each of the bolt faces, a bit of Google-Fu will lead you down the right path.

This is what I was looking for thank you. Ha I tried some googling but I'm no master and you provided more info here than I could find.

Based on your response sounds to me like my current bolt will work, just need a new barrel now.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Thanks all for the responses. I have read several posts on here as well as Dioni's write up on it so I understand the process. I was mostly curious as to what all would need swapped out to take the 3006 to a 22 Creedmoor. I could not find much info on bolt sizes and faces, like what cartridges can work with the same bolts.

If I only need to swap the barrel and possibly get a new mag and bolt release that would be awesome.

Yep, new barrel is technically all you need, however if it were me, I would swap the bolt stop and magazine as well.
While the Creedmoor cartridges will feed from the LA mag, there is a lot of room in there for it to move around, which may, or may not, introduce a variable that prevents 100% reliable feeding. $40 is a small price to pay for a mag. Plus, if you don't ever plan on going back to the LA, you can easily sell the mag as a lot of us are always on the lookout for cheap spares. Post it up for $35, shipped and I am sure you will get a buyer.

 

[TaperPin]

I'm completely new to swapping barrels. I have Tikkas I just havnt removed barrels yet. I'm excited about the whole idea though. Is there a list that shows barrel faces that will work with other cartridges? Do I need a whole new bolt? Bolt face opened up? I assume I would need a new bolt release at the very least?

I'm looking to spin off a 3006 barrel and wanting to get a 22 Creedmoor. Not sure how much it is going to take as far as swapping parts, aside from a new barrel obviously.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

A pic for attention. T3X 18' .223. waiting for a Rokstock.

Lots of good information above and in the barrel swap posts you should look up.

If you are good with a hacksaw, cutting 3/16” deep just in front of the receiver all around, leaving a thin 1/16” strip untouched, will release the vast majority of the pressure on the threads and the barrel will unscrew much easier.

 

[Leaf Litter]

I have a used short action bolt stop I'd sell if you are interested.

I've swapped 2 tikka barrels: one on a brand new 270 T3X to 35 Whelen AI conversion and another on a "well worn" T3 243 to 6.5 creedmoor conversion.

The barrel was a bugger to get off of the new 270, but nowhere near as hard as the used 243. I had to make shoulder relief cuts on the 243 barrel or it would still be on the action today. If you run into that much difficulty removing the barrel, just remember that option as a last resort. It ruins the old barrel, but makes way for the new.

 

[khuber84]

When I buy a new Tikka, I always break the barrel loose, use some solvent to remove the bonding agent on the tenon, and re-torque to 100'# with anti seize. I've had some that were heat cycled god knows how many times, and I had to have a smith relief cut the barrel for removal. I have a very good barrel vise, inside and outside action wrenches, and I couldn't get em broke. I think they have a 400# worlds strongest man competitor torquing barrels in Finland.

 

[skip189]

This summer I did two Tikka actions. One was a 270wsm and the other a 270 Winchester. I used a 21st Century barrel vice with a Wheeler barrel wrench #1. I was worried how hard they were going to be based on the horror stories I had read about but they were actually not that bad. Removed those two barrels and replaced with X caliber barrels with a barrel nut and both rifles are load developed and hunting as we speak. Was easier than I thought it would be.

 

[HandgunHTR]

I recently helped a good friend swap the barrel on his rifle. I loaned him my tools and gave him instructions on how to do it.
He called me a couple of evenings later and told me he couldn't get it off. He said he tried a 3' cheater and was continually beating it with a dead blow and it wasn't moving. I hopped in the truck and went over to see if I could help.
What I found out after some troubleshooting is that he had wookie-torqued the action wrench on the action right behind the barrel/action junction. Essentially, he had introduced a clamping force on the threads. As soon as we moved the action wrench back a little bit, put it on only tight enough to keep it from sliding, and put a little heat on the action, it popped free after two hits with the dead blow.

Just something to keep in mind.

 

[mjspeers]

Anyone ever use a Viper barrel vise? I'm trying to get a barrel off. No matter what I do the barrel keeps spinning. It's a factory 20" 308 barrel. If at all possible I'd like to save the barrel.

I tried pieces of leather, putting it on different parts of the barrel, no dice. I have used heat and freeze spray. As of now I have it upside over a trash with Kreol soaking. I haven't tried brown sugar (is that legit?) or drywall tape.

With the viper, it's a little bigger, and wants to contour to the barrel, I'm not sure if that's my problem. I'm going to let the Kreol sit for a few days, adding more.

If that doesn't work, how are you guys making the relief cuts? I don't have a lathe but I have an angle grinder. That relief cut doesn't have to be pretty does it?

 

[Leaf Litter]

Anyone ever use a Viper barrel vise? I'm trying to get a barrel off. No matter what I do the barrel keeps spinning. It's a factory 20" 308 barrel. If at all possible I'd like to save the barrel.

I tried pieces of leather, putting it on different parts of the barrel, no dice. I have used heat and freeze spray. As of now I have it upside over a trash with Kreol soaking. I haven't tried brown sugar (is that legit?) or drywall tape.

With the viper, it's a little bigger, and wants to contour to the barrel, I'm not sure if that's my problem. I'm going to let the Kreol sit for a few days, adding more.

If that doesn't work, how are you guys making the relief cuts? I don't have a lathe but I have an angle grinder. That relief cut doesn't have to be pretty does it?

Brown sugar is supposedly very effective, but I haven't tried it. Drywall tape spun on me pretty badly.

I know you want to save the barrel, and it's definitely worth trying sugar first, but I kicked myself for wasting so much time and energy trying to get the barrel off before I finally broke down and cut a relief ring 1/8" in front of the action on my last swap. 2 hours of beating on it with a mallet, 3 foot breaker bars, etc. 1 small cut and it was off in 30 seconds.

 

[SamsonMan22]

Anyone ever use a Viper barrel vise? I'm trying to get a barrel off. No matter what I do the barrel keeps spinning. It's a factory 20" 308 barrel. If at all possible I'd like to save the barrel.

I tried pieces of leather, putting it on different parts of the barrel, no dice. I have used heat and freeze spray. As of now I have it upside over a trash with Kreol soaking. I haven't tried brown sugar (is that legit?) or drywall tape.

With the viper, it's a little bigger, and wants to contour to the barrel, I'm not sure if that's my problem. I'm going to let the Kreol sit for a few days, adding more.

If that doesn't work, how are you guys making the relief cuts? I don't have a lathe but I have an angle grinder. That relief cut doesn't have to be pretty does it?

Sorry I can’t comment on the viper vise, I use a SAC with tikka specific bushings. I do use a heavy paper between the bushings and barrel never has to be anything special usually just the cover on a catalog that’s laying around.

I did a relief cut for my first one and at the time I thought it helped but after changing several others afterwards I can’t say that it did a whole lot. You can make the cut with whatever you would like, the lathe is easiest but a steady hand with a hacksaw, file, grinder, etc would get the desired result.

I use an external wrench with about a 3’ handle, I tighten it down tight in the vise and put steady pressure on the handle, if it breaks free perfect but on occasion I will put pressure on it and then give it a hit with the palm of my hand and that breaks them free. I have never had to go to heat, oil, etc. I have changed them with no rounds fired to thousands of rounds fired and have seen no real difference. The worst one I had took 3 hits with my palm but majority have just spun right off, get the barrel tight in the vise so it doesn’t slip whatever that takes.

 

[Castle Rock]

Brown sugar, and don’t over tighten the action wrench

 

[mjspeers]

Brown sugar is supposedly very effective, but I haven't tried it. Drywall tape spun on me pretty badly.

I know you want to save the barrel, and it's definitely worth trying sugar first, but I kicked myself for wasting so much time and energy trying to get the barrel off before I finally broke down and cut a relief ring 1/8" in front of the action on my last swap. 2 hours of beating on it with a mallet, 3 foot breaker bars, etc. 1 small cut and it was off in 30 seconds.

What did you make the relief cut with and how deep?

 

[mjspeers]

Sorry I can’t comment on the viper vise, I use a SAC with tikka specific bushings. I do use a heavy paper between the bushings and barrel never has to be anything special usually just the cover on a catalog that’s laying around.

I did a relief cut for my first one and at the time I thought it helped but after changing several others afterwards I can’t say that it did a whole lot. You can make the cut with whatever you would like, the lathe is easiest but a steady hand with a hacksaw, file, grinder, etc would get the desired result.

I use an external wrench with about a 3’ handle, I tighten it down tight in the vise and put steady pressure on the handle, if it breaks free perfect but on occasion I will put pressure on it and then give it a hit with the palm of my hand and that breaks them free. I have never had to go to heat, oil, etc. I have changed them with no rounds fired to thousands of rounds fired and have seen no real difference. The worst one I had took 3 hits with my palm but majority have just spun right off, get the barrel tight in the vise so it doesn’t slip whatever that takes.

I'm sure the SAC is better than the Viper than. I tightened it several times with everything I had. Always spun on me. Used card stock, used leather, bang with a dead blow or just using my body weight.

Sounds like I'll be trying brown sugar, if that doesn't work relief cut.

 

[Leaf Litter]

What did you make the relief cut with and how deep?

I used a hack saw and cut a ring around the barrel about 1/8-3/16 of an inch deep as close to the action as possible. I'm sure there are better tools for the job, but it's what I had on hand at the time.