Tikka barrel swap

[Matt5266]

I'm completely new to swapping barrels. I have Tikkas I just havnt removed barrels yet. I'm excited about the whole idea though. Is there a list that shows barrel faces that will work with other cartridges? Do I need a whole new bolt? Bolt face opened up? I assume I would need a new bolt release at the very least?

I'm looking to spin off a 3006 barrel and wanting to get a 22 Creedmoor. Not sure how much it is going to take as far as swapping parts, aside from a new barrel obviously.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

A pic for attention. T3X 18' .223. waiting for a Rokstock.

 

[z987k]

I'm completely new to swapping barrels. I have Tikkas I just havnt removed barrels yet. I'm excited about the whole idea though. Is there a list that shows barrel faces that will work with other cartridges? Do I need a whole new bolt? Bolt face opened up? I assume I would need a new bolt release at the very least?

I'm looking to spin off a 3006 barrel and wanting to get a 22 Creedmoor. Not sure how much it is going to take as far as swapping parts, aside from a new barrel obviously.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you

A pic for attention. T3X 18' .223. waiting for a Rokstock.

New barrel is all that is needed for that. You could do the short action bolt stop and magazine if you want but you don't have to. Short action cartridges feed fine from full sized tikka magazines.

 

[awpk03s]

If you’re doing it yourself vs sending to a smith, you just need the basic tools, a good barrel vise mounted to a sturdy surface, and an action wrench.

However, my advice would be for removal of a factory barrel, I use a Brownells Universal external action wrench. For spinning the new barrel on I switch and use an internal action wrench available from various smiths.

Tips for removing the barrel:

- you never know how much loctite was put in at the factory so apply some heat from a heat gun might be helpful.
- use a 3’ section of steel pipe as a cheater over the handle of your action wrench.
- use a dead blow hammer for a few impacts on said handle, I have found the impact helps get you started. Just a few knocks.
- inside the barrel vise, coat that sucker with brown sugar. Crank it down as tight as absolutely possible. For me this is the only thing that works to prevent the barrel slipping and spinning in the vise. Strips of leather, etc will just get destroyed. Brown sugar.

 

[SamsonMan22]

A good barrel vice, an internal action wrench, something for an external wrench to break the barrel free, and a torque wrench wouldn’t hurt. A set of headspace gauges wouldn’t hurt, I have never had a factory take off be out of spec but I know after market Prefits from some manufactures can be a gamble there.

I have changed a bunch of them with one of the eBay internal action wrenches it seems to work fine. I am using the SAC barrel vice, it’s the cheaper one I think it’s called a bravo or something like that. For the external wrench I just made my own crude one from some 1” aluminum bar stock and a couple bolts, no pretty but works great and provides a lot of clamping power and leverage. I have never had to heat one or use a hammer to break it free, they just spin right off. I’m just wrapping the barrel with some heavy paper and using the right bushings in my vice, without any slippage.

On the rifle side a short action bolt stop and M or M+ mags. As said above it will work with your long action bolt stop you currently have as well. I haven’t used any long action mags with short action cartridges so I can’t comment on that.