Tikka accuracy question

[sdupontjr]

Lots of information mentioned above. I too take a dremel and free float my barrel aggressively. You can take a socket and wrap it with sandpaper and will do the same. I go until I can slide 2 stacked index cards all the way to the action with no resistance. I also too some SS tubing and made pillars, because the washer made into the bottom metal was flexing. I extended them pass the bottom of the stock so that they bottom out on the little washer. Now I can torque to the moon if I like, but I go to 65 now.

Also, I own an older T3 lite , T3x and a CTR that is set into a roughtech stock. None of mine flex with ease as you mention. They do flex, but it takes a good bit of force to make them flex. When / If you decide to sand the barrel channel, Not only do I sand the sides, but I also knock down the webbing inside. Thats why I use a deremel with a small carbide bit to get in there.

100 shots should be plenty good enough for a cold hammer forged barrel. Clean it real good, free float the barrel and I bet it'll shoot, assuming all rings and scope mount isn't loose or have moved. Here are some pics of my SS pillars and how it bottoms out on the washer in the bottom metal.

 

[Ringbill27]

View attachment 909305

What’s the horse wrap on the scope for?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

What’s the horse wrap on the scope for?

When you're shooting in 110+ degree days, black scopes get to around 150 degrees or so. Vet wrap keeps them from burning hands.

 

[Ringbill27]

When you're shooting in 110+ degree days, black scopes get to around 150 degrees or so. Vet wrap keeps them from burning hands.

Very good point. I never deal with temps that high and if I do I’m probably not going shooting. Would this work on suppressor. Or would they get too hot?

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Very good point. I never deal with temps that high and if I do I’m probably not going shooting. Would this work on suppressor. Or would they get too hot?

Yes it works great on suppressors. Sometimes you have to cut the last couple layers off as it will melt to it. No big deal though. Vet wrap on suppressors is what I used forever until I started using the LS Wild covers this Spring.

Thread 'LS Wild Suppressor Covers'

Mar 23, 2025

Recently picked up a LS Wild suppressor cover for my Resilient Jolene S from @hereinaz and wanted say a quick kudos. It’s a super light, streamlined cover which I like a lot. Had it out today and after about 10 rounds out of a 22-250, the can was hotter than hell but zero mirage issues through the scope were visible. They seem to be a really solid setup with no slippage through strings of fire. Being made in the USA is the biggest bonus, to me. I’ll be ordering more!

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[hickswr]

Make sure the action is properly seated on the recoil lug in the stock. You should hear/feel it “click” into place.

Not saying that’s your problem but folks that are familiar with the recoil lug being mounted to the action often have issues re-stocking a Tikka.

 

[rclouse79]

I bought a new tikka 223 and the groups tightened up after getting some rounds through it. Good luck getting it dialed in.

 

[Turkeytider]

Tikka is a hunting rifle? No
Those plastic rifle stocks can be pretty flimsy
I like a OG Sako with a real wood stock

A T3X is kinda like a savage axis , just not the same as the 110 , same brand just whittled down for budget cuts

Admittedly I’m not a connoisseur of fine rifle stocks, but the Roughtech stock on my T3X Super Varmint seems pretty stiff.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Heat does nothing for “groups” with Tikka barrels. They are cold hammer forged and properly stressed relieved in Finland. Check that off your list.

You are onto something with the barrel not fully free floated. Take the barreled action back out and FULLY free float it. Sand the stock out with a deep socket and sand paper.

You need to be able to fold a piece of paper in half and have ZERO obstruction all the way to here…

View attachment 909305

Start there are report back please.

This.

Aggressively float barrel channel, and upon reassembly make sure the recoil lug is in the slot, lightly snug the action screws, and drop the rifle on the butt to make sure it's seated, then torque. I personally go 55-60 in/lbs with a very light app of blue Loctite on action screw threads, and it has always dried and worked for me. Skim bedding the action with JB Weld or Devcon doesn't hurt either.

 

[BackstrapReaper]

@RogerSanchez have you had any better luck with solutioning your problem?
I have one of the new tikka 7PRC
First 40 rounds were awful 1.5 inch groups at best on 3 rounds shooting slowly cleaned fully at 5, 20 and 40 rounds.
Swapped recoil lugs to the mountain tactical
Not sure if it was that or just resetting the lug , but that dropped it to a “1” inch gun.
Also it doesn’t like Hornady Precision Hunter but loves Match

 

[RogerSanchez]

@RogerSanchez have you had any better luck with solutioning your problem?
I have one of the new tikka 7PRC
First 40 rounds were awful 1.5 inch groups at best on 3 rounds shooting slowly cleaned fully at 5, 20 and 40 rounds.
Swapped recoil lugs to the mountain tactical
Not sure if it was that or just resetting the lug , but that dropped it to a “1” inch gun.
Also it doesn’t like Hornady Precision Hunter but loves Match

Awesome shooting. I'm heading back out on Thursday to shoot. I'll update the group. Thanks so much