Tikka 300WM Load Suggestions

bsnedeker

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I'm hoping to get some suggestions from the brain trust on where to go on my ongoing load development with my Tikka 300WM. Bought the rifle early this year and have hunted with it with Hornady Precision Hunter ammo with the 200 grain ELD-X bullets. It shot them really well but with the twist rate on the rifle I thought I might be able to do better with the 178 gr ELD-X's. I have the factory magazine so I'm loading to SAAMI spec COAL.

I settled on H4831 powder and have been doing harmonic testing (three shot groups) to find the load that works best and I have not been having any luck. I started all the way down at 66.8 grains and have so far worked my way up to 72.5 in .3 grain increments. Groups were really bad up to about 69.8 grains where they started to tighten up but I haven't seen a sub MOA load yet. Surprisingly I actually haven't hit any pressure signs yet so I was going to continue going up but with the scarcity of powder and primers I don't want to waste any more material chasing a ghost.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should I keep going and hope things improve? New bullet? Different powder? I'd like to stick with H4831 simply because I have other rifles that like that powder and it does seem to be within the sweet spot for 180 grain projectiles as far as burn rate based on all of my reloading manuals.

Thanks in advance!
 
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bsnedeker

bsnedeker

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Just went over my notes so this might be helpful...looks like I could still potentially have a ways to go before I hit pressure

Hornady Manuals says max load is 74.3 gr
Lyman says 76.0
Lee says 73.0
and Hodgdon says 71.8

I've heard that 300's like loads that are near max pressure so I'm leaning towards proceeding with my harmonic testing until I hit pressure but I'm totally open to other ideas.
 
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Do you have a chronograph? You can save time and components by using a chronograph to find your velocity node. If no pressure signs yet then work up slowly.
 
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bsnedeker

bsnedeker

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Do you have a chronograph? You can save time and components by using a chronograph to find your velocity node. If no pressure signs yet then work up slowly.
I do but honestly I don't trust it. It's the gen 2 Caldwell. I've worked up dope charts based on what it said and when I shot to verify out to 400 it was off by like 4 inches.

I've just had good luck in the past with this method so it's what I'm comfortable with for now.

I'm going to get one of those magnetospeed deals one of these days!

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I am running 190 gr Bergers in my bone stock 300 WM T3X. Velocity is 2900 fps and produces tiny groups (bipod and rear rest).

No issues killing whitetail, black bear, and grizzly bear.
 
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bsnedeker

bsnedeker

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I am running 190 gr Bergers in my bone stock 300 WM T3X. Velocity is 2900 fps and produces tiny groups (bipod and rear rest).

No issues killing whitetail, black bear, and grizzly bear.
What powder do those like in your gun?

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MHWASH

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84grs Ramshot Magnum. Just over 2900. 3 shots with 200gr AB, 3 with 200 gr Sierras.
 

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BuckSnort

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I like H4831 for my 300WM.. Maybe load up some 200 gr ELX since your rifle shot the factory ammo good?
 
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Try a 180 accubond, or 180 Barnes ttsx they are pretty forgiving with the jump in those shorter magazines. Best wishes
 
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bsnedeker

bsnedeker

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I like H4831 for my 300WM.. Maybe load up some 200 gr ELX since your rifle shot the factory ammo good?

Believe me, I've been asking myself why the hell I decided to mess with the projectile since I know it shoots the 200s well. I think it's a case of overthinking things...Tikka's twist rates are SUPPOSED to be better for the lighter projectiles and the heavy guys aren't supposed to stabilize as well...right? Lol!

Good news is I just got my hands on a couple more pounds of powder so I think I'm going to continue testing the 180's until I hit pressure. If I find a load it likes I'll stick with it, if not I'll start over with the 200's, or maybe try some of the bullet suggestions here (assuming I can find them somewhere!!!).

I really appreciate the suggestions guys, thanks a ton!
 
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bsnedeker

bsnedeker

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Try a 180 accubond, or 180 Barnes ttsx they are pretty forgiving with the jump in those shorter magazines. Best wishes

I was SHOCKED when I finally got around to measuring how much jump there is to the lands from a SAAMI spec COAL. My eld-x bullets are touching the lands at a CBTO of 2.929", which equates to a COAL of about 3.591"! My magazine only accepts 3.340" COAL so we are talking about a jump over over .2"!

I've been thinking HARD about jumping into that Mountain Tactical bottom metal and AICS mags.
 

FishfinderAK

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My go-to 300 wm T3x load is 200 ELD-X, 76 gr H1000, Gunwerks brass, WMLR primers.
Loaded to stock mag max length.
 

Harvey_NW

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I was SHOCKED when I finally got around to measuring how much jump there is to the lands from a SAAMI spec COAL. My eld-x bullets are touching the lands at a CBTO of 2.929", which equates to a COAL of about 3.591"! My magazine only accepts 3.340" COAL so we are talking about a jump over over .2"!

I've been thinking HARD about jumping into that Mountain Tactical bottom metal and AICS mags.
Don't do it without consulting with a smith. The mag length of the AICS exceeds the action port opening (by a pretty significant difference) on the Tikka, and the nose of the bullet will get hung up when feeding. I found this out the hard way, and didn't bother talking to a smith about whether or not the action port could safely be opened up, I parted the Tikka out and ran in a different direction.
 
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bsnedeker

bsnedeker

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Don't do it without consulting with a smith. The mag length of the AICS exceeds the action port opening (by a pretty significant difference) on the Tikka, and the nose of the bullet will get hung up when feeding. I found this out the hard way, and didn't bother talking to a smith about whether or not the action port could safely be opened up, I parted the Tikka out and ran in a different direction.
Yeah, if I do it my plan was getting a new stock and taking it to a smith to have the work done...may as well upgrade that at the same time. I have bedded the factory stock but I like the idea of a heavier stock to tame the recoil a bit.

If I can get a sub MOA round out of the thing I probably won't bother and I think I should be able to do that. The idea of a quarter inch jump to the lands just seems crazy to me though.
 

raz175

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My most accurate load is;
180 gr. Accubond
Nosler Brass
79.5 Gr H-1000 (.5 grain above Nosler's most accurate load)
CCI-250 primers
Seated 3.330 OAL
Velocity average is around 2950. Consistently .5 MOA or better. Best group was .201 MOA.
 

Hnttillmt

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I would look hard at switching to a mono bullet like the Barnes 168 ttsx or 178 lrx. I know a lot of guys swear they shoot 200 Accubond and eldx accurately in their tikkas and I’m not doubting that they do. A marginally stabilized bullet can still shoot accurately but it’s the terminal effect on game that can suffer.
Barnes are known to like a lot of jump to the lands. I’ve been shooting a t3x in 300wsm for at least 10 years now(really can’t remember what year I bought it) and the 168ttsx loaded out to max mag length has been extremely deadly. I’ve never measured my headspace to know how much jump they have, even though I have the equipment to do that. I normally like to tinker and keep thinking I should measure it just to know, but you know what they say about if it ain’t broke.
I’ve filled quite a few tags with this combo at all manner of ranges and shot angles. Most one shot kills and complete pass through. Only two bullets recovered and both were from very close shots in the thick timber at extreme angles. I’m sure other bullets would have a still resulted in filled tags but with a lot more mess and tracking involved.
I don’t know what your maximum effective range is and why you want to shoot the eldx but for a really lightweight 300 my load is coming out the barrel at 3150 mv, the 168 Barnes has the velocity to get it done out to a little over 600. Checked all the boxes for me.
 
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