Too long if draw length is one of the most common issues with inconsistent anchors. If your bow is adjustable and you know how to adjust it then set the draw so that the string is in front of your nose just barely touching it.
A poorly tuned bow and poorly built arrows normally can still shoot very well at 20 yards. Consistency is key! Fletchings correct any major flight issues, your issue is where the pin is sitting when the arrow leaves the string.
Find a mirror, nock an arrow i and draw your bow standing parallel to it. Keep your finger off of the trigger and without moving your head use your eyes to look over and see what you look like. Having someone video you or take a picture at full draw works if you have someone there.
Here are a couple pics.
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Here is my wife, she uses a wrist strap, notice the string is barely touching her nose with very little face pressure.
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Here is a picture right after the above shot. Notice the follow through, bow still pointed toward the target and arm still in shot position. She is also in an open stance with the front leg slightly back
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I agree with shooting a hinge release, my boys have been shooting a truball sweet spot since they were 9. A wrist strap can be shot just as well and can be shot with back tension. My 14 year old can outshoot 90% of the adults i shot with. He has very good form and follow through but most of the time rush's a shot. You can see here, even on uneven ground he is standing up square to his bow and not leaning forward and back with his hips.
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There are several easy tips to help consistency, probably the easiest is a kisser button, it will allow for the string to come back to the exact spot every single time. Two points of contact are way better than 1, if you have a kisser and you touch it to the corner of your relaxed mouth every time along with having the string touch the very tip of your nose then you will have a very consistent shot and should be stacking arrows at 20 yards.
Hand torque is another big issue, this is my youngest son's biggest problem, you can tell instantly when he starts torquing the bow because his groups open up instantly. You want a totally relaxed from hand on the bow with the majority of the grip pressing against the pad under your thumb.
For your anchor, with your hand, it needs to be consistent, I always use to make an L with my right thumb and index finger and place that L right behind my jawbone so that the jaw was centered in the L. This is consistent for me and a solid repeatable anchor.
You should be able to close your eyes, draw your bow all the way to anchor, touch your nose to the string slightly and then open your eyes. If your anchor, loop and peep are correct you should be looking through a perfectly centered peep when you open your eyes. If you can't do this then you should go to a pro shop and have them adjust all of those things until you can.
Once all of those things are correct then it's time for the shot.
When your shooting focus on the target where you want to hit, set your relaxed finger on the trigger and start pulling into the wall with your back muscles, pretend you're squeezing a ball between your shoulder muscles. Allow the motion of pulling backward to drag your relaxed finger over the trigger and activate it. The entire time don’t stop focusing on the spot you want to hit. Your brain naturally centers the pin over the center of that spot and when your shot brakes.
If you need a visual draw a circle on a piece of paper, start on one side of it and start going back and forth across that paper with a pen from side to side, up and down all around the paper, each time you do that the pin crosses the center and eventually you will have a dark dot in the center. Your arrow does the same thing on the target so the more you focus and execute slow surprise shots the more ofter your arrow will land in the center, it spends over twice as much time crossing the center of the target than any other spot.
Punching does just the opposite, when you punch your either coming down or up on the target and then hitting the trigger when the pin is centered. The problem is that by the time your eyes recognize the pin is centered, tell your brain, and then your brain tells your finger to pull the pin has already moved off target which causes misses. Some people shoot decent like this but the further the distance the more this is amplified and the bigger your misses. Also people that tend to always miss high or low are suffering from target panic. My son comes from under the bullseye and when he starts punching he starts hitting high, when I notice this I have him start coming down on the target and remind him to focus on the shot.
My biggest piece of advice is to not get caught up on silly stuff like speed. Having too long of a draw length is the #1 thing that I see that people who can't shoot consistently have in common, a lot of people shoot as long of a draw as possible to get that little extra speed.
Learning how to work on your own equipment and shooting year-round helps as well.