Throwing broadheads/nock left tear - and it is ME, not my bow.

[TheCougar]

I don’t know if it is possible to help me solve this without slo-mo video of me shooting, but here it goes. I am throwing broadheads left of my field points and I have a bad nock right tear to match when I paper tune. I am 99% sure I am the cause, and not my bow.

Facts:
- both guys in my archery shop can shoot bullet holes with the bow... repeatedly. I shoot a nock right tear between .5 to 1”... repeatedly.
- all broadheads hit left of field points, regardless of adjusting the arrow rest to the right. Moving the rest doesn’t help the tear much either.
- both of these point to me being the problem, rather than the equipment.
- Right handed Prime centergy Hybrid, 70#, 29” draw, shooting Spartan 300, 27.5” Carbon to Carbon, 125 grain tip, 30 grain insert weight, blazer and max stealth vanes (slightly over-spined), total weight of 470-481 grains, depending on the vanes.
- wise guy trigger release, front and side stabilizer, 5 arrow quiver on right side, and hamskea drop away.
- I’m not punching the trigger.
- I’m not overdrawn - a common problem with an identical result to what I am doing.

What I have looked at so far:
Draw length, fletching contact, adjusting rest, adjusting grip, thumb release, follow through. I’ve had my guys at the shop (the ones who shoot Bullet holes with the bow) look at my form, and they haven’t figured it out either. They think I am torquing the riser and I think I am pushing the bow left at the break of the shot because of some weird mechanics that have to do with how I am pulling against the wall. I’m frustrated that I can’t seem to figure out what I am doing wrong.

Do you guys know of any good online resources for proper archery form so I can go back to basics and look at every part of my habit pattern and shot mechanics? Any ideas of what else I can check and how I might be able to correct it?

EDITED BECAUSE I AM STUPID. I have a "Nock Right tear" with broad heads hitting left of my field points.

 

[Hoh Down]

Two questions:

1 are you really sure on draw length? The prime cams run 1/4 to 1/2" long.
2 I assume you're shooting the same arrows as the staff who were shooting bullet holes were, correct?

 

[TheCougar]

Two questions:

1 are you really sure on draw length? The prime cams run 1/4 to 1/2" long.
2 I assume you're shooting the same arrows as the staff who were shooting bullet holes were, correct?

1. Pretty confident. I lowered the letoff to shorten the draw a little bit and I had them make a new d loop that is as short as possible. It is the same DL I have always used. I also don’t “feel” like I am over drawing.
2. Yes.

 

[OR Archer]

Did they adjust the flex roller guard to try and fix the tear for you? Or just move the rest?
Typically a left tear will result in broadheads hitting right of field points.

 

[TJ]

Have you looked at the Nuts and Bolts info?

http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf

May be something in there that could help.

 

[Brendan]

So, just because they can shoot bullet holes doesn't necessarily mean that the bow is tuned correctly for you. Could be different grip, different anchor, etc. Bow needs to be tuned to the shooter.

Second question - is it a left tear, or a right tear? With a left tear, broadhead misses right of field point. With a right tear, broadhead misses left of field point.

This is what proper form looks like:

Proper Draw Length with John Dudley of Nock On - YouTube

Ignore the "trick" for estimating draw length, focus on how he looks at full draw. Also - his Youtube channel is one of the best out there for archery.

 

[doverpack12]

I would focus on your grip as the prime riser for me is extremely difficult to be consistent with left to right grip pressure. I actually sold my alloy with pcxl cams because I just wasn’t consistent with it even though it was the best feeling now I’ve shot to date.

 

[TheCougar]

Did they adjust the flex roller guard to try and fix the tear for you? Or just move the rest?
Typically a left tear will result in broadheads hitting right of field points.

No on the roller guard. How is this done? We just tried moving the rest a little bit, and it doesn't seem to bring the field points and broad heads together.

 

[TheCougar]

So, just because they can shoot bullet holes doesn't necessarily mean that the bow is tuned correctly for you. Could be different grip, different anchor, etc. Bow needs to be tuned to the shooter.

Second question - is it a left tear, or a right tear? With a left tear, broadhead misses right of field point. With a right tear, broadhead misses left of field point.

This is what proper form looks like:

Proper Draw Length with John Dudley of Nock On - YouTube

Ignore the "trick" for estimating draw length, focus on how he looks at full draw. Also - his Youtube channel is one of the best out there for archery.

I'm a dumbass, and I apologize. I am using bad terminology. I have a nock right tear - nock passing through paper to the right of the tip.

 

[TheCougar]

I'm not all bent out of shape about the paper tuning - The ends justify the means as long as I can get everything to group together. I will check out the John Dudley video and the archery talk thread. Thank you.

 

[HuntHarder]

99% of the time it is hand torque on your grip. When you get to full draw, look at the top and bottom cams and look to see that the string is coming off in the middle of the cam. I will echo that just because they shoot bullets, does not mean you will. I usually make small adjustments to my rest after my proshop tunes my bow. I have watched my buddy, who is the bow tech, shoot bullet holes and I get a small tear left or right. I adjust accordingly and my field points and broadheads are hitting the same spot.

 

[TheCougar]

I just found this thread on Rokslide. Dammit, I love this place! I’m willing to bet that I’ve been following the wrong internet advice and I actually need to move my rest TOWARDS the broadheads and not chase my field points. This also makes sense with a nock right tear. We will find out in the AM. This directly contradicts everything I have ever read up until now, but it sounds plausible.

http://www.rokslide.com/forums/archery/75135-bh-8-10-50yds-tuned-4.html

 

[OR Archer]

No on the roller guard. How is this done? We just tried moving the rest a little bit, and it doesn't seem to bring the field points and broad heads together.

You can take turns off the set screw to help with left/right issues. I suggest only doing a half turn out each time and checking the results. This helps you to keep the rest centered.