Ive always been a threadlocker user whether it be some form of loctite or other on smaller nuts and bolts. I also do some iron worker type stuff and have been using paint sticks for match marks on tightened or torqued fasteners. Seeing how inch lbs are pretty sensitive and lubricated threads can throw that measurement off I have been wondering. In the process of meticulously degreasing and mounting stocks, and optics is it better to use loctite on the threads, then matchmark? Or torque dry threads then matchmark heavily with a paint stick to help lock the fastener? I have had to remove nuts over paint stick bolts and it definitely adds tension. I have also seen posts where people dabbed paint stick or nailpolish on the tubes of scopes under rings or while mounting rails. Do you do that over loctite on threads and risk over torquing? In my younger days before I knew anything about torques wrenches I did mount a cheap scope so tight it affected the erector travel. I'm interested to hear others methods that work for them. Before anyone references it yes, I have read Forms recommended methods on here. Has anyone followed those and experienced issues? Do you think your way is better?
By what is said in forums, you would think if thread locker isn’t used, the gun would disassemble itself in front of your eyes. *chuckle*
I simply use a torque wrench and check screws as part of regular maintenance a few times a year. It’s rare if anything loosens up even a little. Each gun has a little log book that tracks any scope adjustments to identify a scope going wonky, tracks accuracy over time, and any screw that might have loosened a slight amount so it can be checked more often. With a switch barrel gun it’s fun to swap stocks, barrels, scopes, receiver or iron sights to tickle the fancy of whatever seems fun, but I stoped using thread locker on all rifles decades ago when Torx and hex drive screws became common and made torque wrench use easy peazy.
There will be plenty of folks giving all sorts of weird suggestions, but there are plenty of reasons not to use anything. If a screw is removed it’s supposed to be cleaned of all old thread locker before new thread locker is applied. That gets old quickly when you’re questioning a scope and want to swap in another to double check it, or you want to take the barreled action out of the stock for maintenance.
Also look at the huge number of scopes here that slip, and if you’re doing it correctly the scope should be removed, degreased at all contact points to remove any oils that have been drug in there, all the thread locker removed from threaded holes and screws, just the screw heads lightly oiled, and everything replaced just to add a few inch pounds to the ring screws.
There’s some false security in thread lockers and paint pens. When I look at someone else’s rifle I have no idea what torque they used with the thread locker and can’t easily check and preserve the locker without removing everything and starting from scratch. Improper torque is so common I assume it was done wrong and back the screw off then torque it correctly - often advancing the position of the torque wrench providing a clue it wasn’t installed correctly.
I think one of the biggest challenges today is keeping the scope base from moving with todays large heavy scopes and agree with locking it in place with epoxy, the black rubberized super glue, or anaerobic sleeve retainer. Many of them have a similar tensile strength and bond strength. I still check screw torque.
