Threading a Blued Tikka

grfox92

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I've searched and can't find the answer. Local store has a 300wm T3x blued.

Can the barrel be threaded at factory length or do they need to be cut down like the stainless. Barrels seem thick enough looking by eye.

My huddy is looking to buy today, a local shop has one on clearance for a screaming deal.

Thanks.

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9/16-24 is probably the minimum for 30 cal. Me personally, I wouldn't go under 5/8-24. At 9/16, the minimum barrel to provide a good shoulder would need to be .662 according to Thunderbeast, and .725 for 5/8-24.
 
Depends on barrel length, but I believe the tikka lite contour barrels are .630 at muzzle on the 24", and a tiny bit more at 22"--same contour, so it's just the difference in where on the taper you end up. Shop probably has a set of calipers I'd think and you could get close-enough measurement. I dont know if the magnum barrels are any thicker, that's across a couple standard bolt face calibers.

edit: I just measured one of mine. If .725" is "the number" for threading 5/8x24, at least on my t3xlite 6.5cm that is a no-go at ANY length, it is under .725" all the way back half-way through the foreend where the taper around the chamber ends...it'd be like a 7" barrel at that point. I dont have it handy, but I think my 270 has a slightly diff taper, so it sounds like they are different enough it could matter...best to measure. .725" is awfully close to 3/4", you can probably use a regular tape at that point and be able to eyeball how much you'd have to cut.

 
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The simple answer is yes, no problem. I have 3 superiltes that are threaded with brakes., and several friends have done the same.
 
Why would threading a blued barrel be any different than any other barrel?
Because the stainless Tikkas cannot be threaded without cutting down the barrel. I don't want to cut my barrel down. The blued Tikka barrels look like a larger diameter then the barrels on the Stainless.

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Because the stainless Tikkas cannot be threaded without cutting down the barrel. I don't want to cut my barrel down. The blued Tikka barrels look like a larger diameter then the barrels on the Stainless.

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never heard of that

Just went to the safe and put the calipers on a few. No difference between blued and stainless of equal lengths
 
Because the stainless Tikkas cannot be threaded without cutting down the barrel. I don't want to cut my barrel down. The blued Tikka barrels look like a larger diameter then the barrels on the Stainless.

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They’re the same contour, and you can thread them at factory length.
 
never heard of that

Just went to the safe and put the calipers on a few. No difference between blued and stainless of equal lengths
Thank you that's the exact piece of information I needed.

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They’re the same contour, and you can thread them at factory length.
Ill tske your word for it, but do you have any details? The general consensus on what I've read on Rokslide is they are too thin at full length and need to be cut down significantly to be threaded.

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I’m actually having gun smith thread a tikka lite blued barrel right now. It is a 22-250 with 22” barrel. My smith said he could do 9/16 x 24 but not the 5/8x 24.
 
I’m actually having gun smith thread a tikka lite blued barrel right now. It is a 22-250 with 22” barrel. My smith said he could do 9/16 x 24 but not the 5/8x 24.
Maybe I misunderstood and people were having to chop them down just to get a 5/8 thread.

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Maybe I misunderstood and people were having to chop them down just to get a 5/8 thread.

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That’s the issue. But, with the “recommended” diameter for a shoulder you won’t get 5/8x24 with a T3 lite contour. Go 9/16x24 or 1/2x28 and then use an adapter.
 
Maybe I misunderstood and people were having to chop them down just to get a 5/8 thread.

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Yea I thought that too. I think over heard that. My plan was to do 5/8. But even
Chopped down to 18” the smith said 5/8 wouldn’t work. So had to go 9/16th
 
1/2x28 with a permanent adapter to 5/8x24. This was chopped to 18” but you could do the same at factory length. ADC4F14F-4A09-4474-9417-4182FC5A3643.jpeg
 
A lot of smiths have started putting permanent adapters onto light contoured barrels so that "enough" shoulder would be present. I have a Tikka that I did it on and it looks fine once you thread the suppressor on. It doesn't cost much more than just having it threaded.
If your local smith won't do it, just send it to Kampfeld, Shaen, LRI, or one of the many others that are doing it.
 
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