This might be a dumb question…

[Treeratslayer]

Ok this doesn’t apply 100% to “long range” but I figured this would be most likely to get a good answer.

I’m getting into dialing shots and just picked up a mil scope. I get every rifle is different, round, so many factors. But how does one go about calculating their mils for a shot? I know a lot of guys have calculators in their range finders. I know some guys have a card on the gun. But can it be done in your head?

My range finder doesn’t do mil calc, so let’s say I go with a card with every 50 yards on it. But the deer is at 457. Not 450 or 500. Do you do head math to get to 457 or do you just have to go with one or the other?

I feel like it should be easy to do in your head and I’m just overthinking it. But I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere.

Thanks for letting me waste your time!


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[Dave0317]

When I first learned it, you just memorized at least the 100 yard increment adjustments.

Now there are some quick math techniques to get you pretty close. Look up the Shoot2Hunt folks. They have a good method that I think has been discussed on this forum and maybe on their podcast.

What rangefinder are you using?

Do you have a phone ballistics app? I like Ballistic AE, but there are some other great ones as well. If your rangefinder doesn’t have very user friendly software, you may be better off using it to get your range, and get your ballistic solution from an app.

 

[Macintosh]

Zero PERFECTLY. Get the range exact, dont settle for “almost”, get it centered on poa, and use at least a 10-round zero. Any error here is amplified at longer range, so thats why this matters.
Download a calculator.
Plug in your info—use box velocity if you dont have a chrono, but get the other inputs perfect, your inputs need to be good.
True your calculator according to app instructions or at the longest range you will shoot before bullet goes transsonic. This will correct the box velocity so dont sweat not having a chrono.
Now use the app info to make a dope card for that DA, or just screenshot the card from your app and make it the screen image.
Adjust DA when you change elevation or temp. this is easy with a simple chart even if you dont have cell service.

Also you can try “quick drops”, which are the “do it in your head solution” you asked about. It’s usually very close depending on your gun—see how it lines up for your gun, its very close for my 6.5cm and slightly over-corrects for my 270.
100 yard zero
200 yards .5 mil
300 yards 1 mil (first digit of the range -2)
400 yards 2 mils(first digit if the range -2)
330 yards 1.3 mils (.1mil per 10 yards in the tens digit)
460 yards 2.6 mils (.1mil/10 yards)
543 yards 3.4 mils (3<5 so round down)
548 yards 3.5 mils (8>5 so round up)

Also can use a “wind number” for your gun, ie a 5mph gun is .1mil wind hold per 100 yards in a 5mph wind, .2 in a 10mph, .3 in 15mph, etc. after truing plug in various wind speeds and see what speed gives you .1mil per 100 yards, and that’s your wind number. Then verify.

Do a search for all of this stuff to get more detailed info. Start here: (and PRACTICE!)

How to use a mil/mil scope-reticle, turrets and proper usage

I have gotten a bunch of requests to write up a "how to" for using mil reticle scoots. In this case the SWFA Milquad reticle. It is the 6x42mm SS with MQ reticle in the pictures, however the process and use is the same as long as you have a scope who's reticle matches the turret adjustments-...

rokslide.com

 

[Treeratslayer]

When I first learned it, you just memorized at least the 100 yard increment adjustments.

Now there are some quick math techniques to get you pretty close. Look up the Shoot2Hunt folks. They have a good method that I think has been discussed on this forum and maybe on their podcast.

What rangefinder are you using?

Do you have a phone ballistics app? I like Ballistic AE, but there are some other great ones as well. If your rangefinder doesn’t have very user friendly software, you may be better off using it to get your range, and get your ballistic solution from an app.

Thanks I’ll check them out. I’m fine with memorizing if that’s the way to go too. Just figured I’d ask.

I have a vortex diamondback 2000 I believe. I haven’t downloaded any apps yet. I’ll check that one out.


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[Treeratslayer]

Zero PERFECTLY. Get the range exact, dont settle for “almost”, get it centered on poa, and use at least a 10-round zero. Any error here is amplified at longer range, so thats why this matters.
Download a calculator.
Plug in your info—use box velocity if you dont have a chrono, but get the other inputs perfect, your inputs need to be good.
True your calculator according to app instructions or at the longest range you will shoot before bullet goes transsonic. This will correct the box velocity so dont sweat not having a chrono.
Now use the app info to make a dope card for that DA, or just screenshot the card from your app and make it the screen image.
Adjust DA when you change elevation or temp. this is easy with a simple chart even if you dont have cell service.

Also you can try “quick drops”, which are the “do it in your head solution” you asked about. It’s usually very close depending on your gun—see how it lines up for your gun, its very close for my 6.5cm and slightly over-corrects for my 270.
100 yard zero
200 yards .5 mil
300 yards 1 mil (first digit of the range -2)
400 yards 2 mils(first digit if the range -2)
330 yards 1.3 mils (.1mil per 10 yards in the tens digit)
460 yards 2.6 mils (.1mil/10 yards)
543 yards 3.4 mils (3548 yards 3.5 mils (8>5 so round up)

Also can use a “wind number” for your gun, ie a 5mph gun is .1mil wind hold per 100 yards in a 5mph wind, .2 in a 10mph, .3 in 15mph, etc. after truing plug in various wind speeds and see what speed gives you .1mil per 100 yards, and that’s your wind number. Then verify.

Do a search for all of this stuff to get more detailed info. Start here: (and PRACTICE!)

How to use a mil/mil scope-reticle, turrets and proper usage

I have gotten a bunch of requests to write up a "how to" for using mil reticle scoots. In this case the SWFA Milquad reticle. It is the 6x42mm SS with MQ reticle in the pictures, however the process and use is the same as long as you have a scope who's reticle matches the turret adjustments-...

rokslide.com

Thanks! Do you suggest a certain app? I like the screensaver idea too.


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[LongWayAround]

I have been using Hornady 4dof. I think it works well, if you are using their bullets or factory ammo. I have not tried any other apps.

It helps if you know your muzzle velocity, but I think you can SWAG it a bit and be pretty close. I assume the box velocity is a little proud, round down a bit, and verify at the range.

If you are shooting factory ammo, reach out to the manufacturer and ask what elevation and barrel length they are testing at. Hornady replied very quickly to me.

The thread linked by Mac above is enlightening. It stays open in my browser.

I screenshot the drop chart and set it as my phone background.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Sell the Vortex, buy a Sig with AB software (any of the Kilos - 3K for less than $300), and have an exact solution for any shot in any condition anywhere. It doesn't get any easier or more convenient than that. Download an app like Shooter or 4DoF and true it up as a backup.

 

[TaperPin]

I don’t shoot mil scopes, but if I did there’s no doubt I’d use the same 300 yard zero that I use with MOA. The numbers are so easy a junior high kid could remember them. Many guys will howl how wrong this is and go on to explain in many many pages how to do it “correctly”, but I’ll never be convinced a big game hunter gains anything out to 600 yards. I don’t shoot MILs and just in the amount of time it took to write this I’ve memorized the holds to 600 yards - seems pretty simple to me. I don’t shoot past 600, but I’d bet lunch 3 mil at 650 would also connect.

300 yards dead nutz
350 1/3 mil
400 2/3 mil
450 1 mil
500 1.5 mil
550 2 mil
600 2.5 mil

As for wind, too much effort is put into confusing holds. 0 to 300 yards is .5 mil and 600 is 1 mil for 10 mph. Most folks can interpolate quickly between those two numbers. At no point less than 300 will error from using .5 mil cause a mis.

In ten minutes having never used mils I’ve memorized holds and wind to 600 yards - the 300 yard zero is key to simplifying life. Deer at 100 or 200 yards I simply hold 1/4 the way up the chest and bang bang - dial down if you want, but I wouldn’t. The biggest complaint of 300 yard zero is they want to shoot at 100 yards - then shoot at 100 yards and make that -1 mil. Simple.

Of course this applies to my 6.5 PRC and your rifle will be slightly different, but still easy to remember IF you use a 300 yard zero.

 

[RockAndSage]

A useful alternative if you're not comfortable or quick in doing all the calculations, is to simply wrap a piece of tape around your turret, and true the rifle/round to every distance you find useful by actually shooting at that distance. Dial up until you're dead on at that particular distance, then mark the tape with a pen for that distance.

 

[Treeratslayer]

Sell the Vortex, buy a Sig with AB software (any of the Kilos - 3K for less than $300), and have an exact solution for any shot in any condition anywhere. It doesn't get any easier or more convenient than that. Download an app like Shooter or 4DoF and true it up as a backup.

Took your advice and just picked up an sig. local store had a good sale. Can’t believe I wasted my time on the vortex. More money and less features.


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[Harvey_NW]

Took your advice and just picked up an sig. local store had a good sale. Can’t believe I wasted my time on the vortex. More money and less features.

Nice! I bet you'll be happy with it. I got a 5K this year and it was the easiest setup I've experienced. Got MV from my chronograph, plugged everything in, and first round impacts out to 860 yards - as far as it would give a solution.

 

[AM_Hunter]

Ok this doesn’t apply 100% to “long range” but I figured this would be most likely to get a good answer.

I’m getting into dialing shots and just picked up a mil scope. I get every rifle is different, round, so many factors. But how does one go about calculating their mils for a shot? I know a lot of guys have calculators in their range finders. I know some guys have a card on the gun. But can it be done in your head?

My range finder doesn’t do mil calc, so let’s say I go with a card with every 50 yards on it. But the deer is at 457. Not 450 or 500. Do you do head math to get to 457 or do you just have to go with one or the other?

I feel like it should be easy to do in your head and I’m just overthinking it. But I can’t find a clear explanation anywhere.

Thanks for letting me waste your time!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In this scenario you would simply use the dope you have for 450 yards. For my .308, the MOA difference between 450 and 457 is 0.25 MOA which ends up being 1.14" at 457 yards. You could always dial the extra 0.25 MOA if you know, or guesstimate it since you know your range is between 450 yards and 500 yards. Or you if you have your ballistic app setup and have time to check it, just set the app to the range you got and dial to the closest value that your app is showing.

 

[nmacgyver]

I would also say that this is where some practice and the true sense of DOPE comes in. The necessity of precision when an animals life is at stake notwithstanding, in the situation you described I would probably dial for 450 and aim a little bit high or guesstimate an additional click or two or three depending on where it is between 450 and 500. But the more practice you get at various ranges and trying these different things, your experience provides the data on previous engagements that you need. Of course, this does not downplay all the extremely helpful advice previously in this thread.

 

[Treeratslayer]

I would also say that this is where some practice and the true sense of DOPE comes in. The necessity of precision when an animals life is at stake notwithstanding, in the situation you described I would probably dial for 450 and aim a little bit high or guesstimate an additional click or two or three depending on where it is between 450 and 500. But the more practice you get at various ranges and trying these different things, your experience provides the data on previous engagements that you need. Of course, this does not downplay all the extremely helpful advice previously in this thread.

Yeah that makes sense too. I know in some situations you don’t have time to really worry about 0.1 mils. You can get darn close. I think my plan now is practice a lot, have my new range finder, and also have a dope card on my Lock Screen Incase my finder were to crap out or something


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