Thermal scope recommendations

[Hnthrdr]

Definitely is!

Off the cuff recommendation would be a Rix L6R for $4,499 and a Rix K3 scanner for $899 puts you at $5,398 total. Lot of bang for your buck but that's definitely biasing the budget towards the scope vs the scanner. Dropping down to a NocPix Lumi P13 scanner would get you down to $5,048 but a 256 scanner is going to be rough. Could save some money on the scope and go with a Pulsar XP50 for $3,999.97 but you drop down to 2X base mag vs 2.8X on the L6R.

Would highly recommend an LRF for shooting out to 500. Ballistic calculator like on the L6R and XP50 will definitely help as well. Estimates distances in thermal can be challenging.

Before really providing a recommendation tailored to your needs I would want more info:

• Gas gun or bolt gun? Tube style scopes like the L6R work well on both, compact style scopes work very well on gas guns but have some ergonomic issues on bolt guns
• Taking more shots at 100 or more at 500? More base mag is better for further out but will hamper you up close.
• Do you prefer to have a better scanner or a better scope?

Lots of other combos out there that will work in that budget range. Feel free to PM me with more questions, can always find a time to hop on a call too.

I’ll try to find a time to give you a call this is some great information, I am leaning towards putting it on a gas gun, but I also have some bolts it could go on as well

 

[Split toe]

I have the same question as OP… would like to get a monocular and a scope combo for around 5k is that possible? Shot distances could range from 100-500 yards

You will want something with LRF at that distance.

 

[Fireflyfishing]

I’ve been looking at the AGM Rattler for a gas gun. This would be used for Yotes (no pigs in my local) I’m thinking out to a couple hundred yards as they come in closer at night time? This is all a mystery to me as I’m a noob in the is realm of hunting.
I haven’t even started the research on scanners as I’m still reeling from the prices of the scopes. Seems like you need both to be successful though.

 

[Split toe]

I’ve been looking at the AGM Rattler for a gas gun. This would be used for Yotes (no pigs in my local) I’m thinking out to a couple hundred yards as they come in closer at night time? This is all a mystery to me as I’m a noob in the is realm of hunting.
I haven’t even started the research on scanners as I’m still reeling from the prices of the scopes. Seems like you need both to be successful though.

Having both makes it easier and makes you more effective, but I know many guys that start out with just a scope.

 

[ZeroFoxGiven]

Having both makes it easier and makes you more effective, but I know many guys that start out with just a scope.

Having both is definitely better. That said I have never used a scanner aside from trying out demos, I always scan with my scope or NODs.

But, I’m usually with 1-3 other people so we have a lot more eyes to cover the ground making using my scope for scanning a lot easier.

I’ll try to find a time to give you a call this is some great information, I am leaning towards putting it on a gas gun, but I also have some bolts it could go on as well

I’ll shoot you a PM with my number

 

[menhaden_man]

I’ve been looking at the AGM Rattler for a gas gun. This would be used for Yotes (no pigs in my local) I’m thinking out to a couple hundred yards as they come in closer at night time? This is all a mystery to me as I’m a noob in the is realm of hunting.
I haven’t even started the research on scanners as I’m still reeling from the prices of the scopes. Seems like you need both to be successful though.

I have the Rattler on a gas gun… give it an average rating. Works good as far as accuracy but it’s a little glitchy, the ap kinda sucks, and you’ll need a battery pack unless you feel like toting a dozen batteries with you all the time. Serious drain when it’s cold - like 20 minutes!

If I were to start over, I’d probably explore Pulsar or even some of the NV options at half the price. Not sure it was work $2k.

 

[ZeroFoxGiven]

I have the Rattler on a gas gun… give it an average rating. Works good as far as accuracy but it’s a little glitchy, the ap kinda sucks, and you’ll need a battery pack unless you feel like toting a dozen batteries with you all the time. Serious drain when it’s cold - like 20 minutes!

If I were to start over, I’d probably explore Pulsar or even some of the NV options at half the price. Not sure it was work $2k.

V1 Rattler?

 

[menhaden_man]

V1 Rattler?

Not exactly sure… bought it from Outdoor Legacy in maybe 2022. I’ll check it when I get home (sitting on stand with my ten year old right now ).

The battery thing is insane. Ended up getting an Anker that fits scope rings on the side of the rifle so I can have it plugged in.

So far as glitchy, the picture freezes often and makes a click sound.

 

[ZeroFoxGiven]

Not exactly sure… bought it from Outdoor Legacy in maybe 2022. I’ll check it when I get home (sitting on stand with my ten year old right now ).

The battery thing is insane. Ended up getting an Anker that fits scope rings on the side of the rifle so I can have it plugged in.

So far as glitchy, the picture freezes often and makes a click sound.

If it takes 123A batteries it’s a V1. Any thermal that runs on 123A is going to go through them quick. External pack definitely helps.

The picture freezing and clicking is normal. That’s the thermal NUC’ing, or Non Uniformity Correction. Basically it’s a calibration that’s needed from time to time in uncooled thermals. You’ll notice it more when the thermal is at a different temp from ambient and less once the thermal reached ambient temp.

The clicking is a shutter inside the scope that closes so the sensor can see the same temp across the entire sensor in order to calibrate then opens back up.

Been a LONG time since I’ve ran a V1 Rattler but you should be able to set it to manually NUC when you tell it to.

 

[Nine Banger]

I’ve been looking at the AGM Rattler for a gas gun. This would be used for Yotes (no pigs in my local) I’m thinking out to a couple hundred yards as they come in closer at night time? This is all a mystery to me as I’m a noob in the is realm of hunting.
I haven’t even started the research on scanners as I’m still reeling from the prices of the scopes. Seems like you need both to be successful though.

If you only have the scope you're unfortunately going to be like one of those day time hunters that uses his scope to glass...

 

[Fireflyfishing]

I have the Rattler on a gas gun… give it an average rating. Works good as far as accuracy but it’s a little glitchy, the ap kinda sucks, and you’ll need a battery pack unless you feel like toting a dozen batteries with you all the time. Serious drain when it’s cold - like 20 minutes!

If I were to start over, I’d probably explore Pulsar or even some of the NV options at half the price. Not sure it was work $2k.

V1 Rattler?

From what I’ve read, the V2 is waaaaay better. Disposable batts on a electronic scope are a no go for me.

And part of this is what concerns me with thermals. I’m not going to lie…spending thousands on an optic that has a shelf life like an iPhone or a GoPro bugs me. If I buy a Nightforce for a day rig, I likely can have that scope mounted for DECADES. There seems to be some great sales right now for some discontinued Pulsars. I’m feeling enticed with the markdowns, but concerned for the ongoing support (or potentially lack thereof) for an aging thermal. But…I want to kill yotes at night…so maybe I just need to get over it, buy one, sell it after a couple of years, and then buy newer unit. Repeat this process every couple of years?

I’ve heard folks say NV isn’t a bad option. That may be true, but it gets pretty dark where I live in MT come winter time. Zero stars in the sky as it’s pretty gloomy all winter long….meaning no starlight. I could be wrong here, but I’m thinking I will need to pony up some coin for fancy NV to combat the lack of ambient light in the winter. So why not go thermal at that point? I could be way off base here…again noob in this neck of the woods.

 

[Fireflyfishing]

If you only have the scope you're unfortunately going to be like one of those day time hunters that uses his scope to glass...

Yep, totally get it. Can be done, but definitely not ideal.

 

[Nine Banger]

Yep, totally get it. Can be done, but definitely not ideal.

Another thing that will come up is when word gets around you're successful people want to join and you can hand them the spotter instead of just having a tag along sitting in the dark wondering what's going on.

 

[Fireflyfishing]

Another thing that will come up is when word gets around you're successful people want to join and you can hand them the spotter inside of just having a tag along sitting in the dark.

Fully agree. One on the scope and one scanning means more eyes looking.

 

[Nine Banger]

One thing I'll throw out is a flip down thermal monocular on a helmet is way better than a handheld.

I put it on my non dominant eye and don't overlook many targets.

You can cash in on more brief glances of targets crossing lanes you're not observing with a handheld.

 

[ZeroFoxGiven]

From what I’ve read, the V2 is waaaaay better. Disposable batts on a electronic scope are a no go for me.

And part of this is what concerns me with thermals. I’m not going to lie…spending thousands on an optic that has a shelf life like an iPhone or a GoPro bugs me. If I buy a Nightforce for a day rig, I likely can have that scope mounted for DECADES. There seems to be some great sales right now for some discontinued Pulsars. I’m feeling enticed with the markdowns, but concerned for the ongoing support (or potentially lack thereof) for an aging thermal. But…I want to kill yotes at night…so maybe I just need to get over it, buy one, sell it after a couple of years, and then buy newer unit. Repeat this process every couple of years?

I’ve heard folks say NV isn’t a bad option. That may be true, but it gets pretty dark where I live in MT come winter time. Zero stars in the sky as it’s pretty gloomy all winter long….meaning no starlight. I could be wrong here, but I’m thinking I will need to pony up some coin for fancy NV to combat the lack of ambient light in the winter. So why not go thermal at that point? I could be way off base here…again noob in this neck of the woods.

100% agree on batteries. 18650s are where it’s at.

You’re right on the money with thermal. They’re an electronic device and improve fast, models only last a few years before something new is out, price drops over time. Easy way to lose money.

Cheapest (still not cheap) way to go about it is to upgrade once a year or so. Sell or trade the last one to fund a new one. Keeps you in the latest and greatest thermal and gets you out of the old one before it depreciates too much.

Once you start keeping them for 2+ years their value plummets.

Or buy once cry once and keep it. But, most warranty’s are 5 years and it’s an electronic device. Rolling the dice on keeping them past warranty where a repair could cost more than the scope is worth.

NV, two options: Digital or analog

Digital: cheaper than thermal but don’t hold their value at all. Even on brighter nights you will need supplemental IR light in order to see, especially at distance. Turns into a big light hanging on the gun.

Analog: Essentially an imagine intensifier tube like you would find in a PVS-14. Works in most lower lighting conditions. Will still need supplemental IR when it gets very dark, and pricey. $10k if you’re buying new with a good tube.

For hunting, dedicated thermal scope in 95%+ of cases. Just the best option (except for your wallet)

 

[ZeroFoxGiven]

One thing I'll throw out is a flip down thermal monocular on a helmet is way better than a handheld.

I put it on my non dominant eye and don't overlook many targets.

You can cash in on more brief glances of targets crossing lanes you're not observing with a handheld.

Best way to go in my opinion.

As a stand alone helmet mount scanner, the Rix ST6 does it the best.