Thermal Help

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Nov 22, 2024
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Pulsar Thermion 2 XG50 vs AGM Rattler v2 50-640? I can get either one for just over $3K right now. Can someone help me with which is "better"?

most of the hunting will be hogs in open fields. some predator hunting too. 200 yards could be common. Leaning towards putting on AR platform 6.5 Grendel.
 
A while back AGM had a bad rap for their lack of customer service. Don't know if that's changed, but worth researching a bit more.
 
AGM has better sensitivity which means clearer image in tough conditions.
AGM is lighter
AGM has better warranty
AGM comes with American Defense QD mount ($250 ) when bought from reputable dealer like outdoor legacy gear.
In the end i'd just give HANs or Jason a call at outdoor legacy gear and they will help you make the best decision for you.
 
AGM has better sensitivity which means clearer image in tough conditions.
AGM is lighter
AGM has better warranty
AGM comes with American Defense QD mount ($250 ) when bought from reputable dealer like outdoor legacy gear.
In the end i'd just give HANs or Jason a call at outdoor legacy gear and they will help you make the best decision for you.
If a guy wanted an AGM rattler V2, which model would he have to buy to be able to reliably target coyotes at 200 yards? Or 150 yards?

I have toyed for a year or more with getting one of these. I'd want to be able to reliably see to make reliable shots at 150 yards at least. 200 would be nice depending on how much the extra resolution to do it would cost me.
 
So all of my shots are 200 yards or less. I run a 35 mm lens on 2 of my thermals. Never felt I needed more. Depending on your background (fields/woods) you'll see them. I like the 35 mm/2x base mag as some areas I hunt I can't even see 100 yards so the wider FOV helps.

If I need to see further, then I can zoom up, but I'm also using 640 cores now. The older 320 core FLIR 19 mm 1-4x that I no longer use started to get fuzzy as the zoom increased but had a wide field of view for my woods hunting.
 
If a guy wanted an AGM rattler V2, which model would he have to buy to be able to reliably target coyotes at 200 yards? Or 150 yards?

I have toyed for a year or more with getting one of these. I'd want to be able to reliably see to make reliable shots at 150 yards at least. 200 would be nice depending on how much the extra resolution to do it would cost me.
Resolution doesn’t kill coyotes, I’ve killed hundreds with a 384 scope. Knowing how to set up, what calls to run, and matching those calls to the time of year is what really matters. If you can consistently call coyotes inside 200 yards, any AGM Rattler V2 will fill your fur shed. Base magnification is just as important as resolution, because every time you zoom you’re cutting resolution in half. And honestly, a higher‑res scanner matters more than the scope itself, you’ll spend 95% of your time behind the scanner and only look through the scope when it’s time to pull the trigger.
 
Resolution doesn’t kill coyotes, I’ve killed hundreds with a 384 scope. Knowing how to set up, what calls to run, and matching those calls to the time of year is what really matters. If you can consistently call coyotes inside 200 yards, any AGM Rattler V2 will fill your fur shed. Base magnification is just as important as resolution, because every time you zoom you’re cutting resolution in half. And honestly, a higher‑res scanner matters more than the scope itself, you’ll spend 95% of your time behind the scanner and only look through the scope when it’s time to pull the trigger.
Agree with most.

Most here aren’t going to go all in like you and me and learn how to actually call and hunt coyotes. They just aren’t.

Agree that scanner is more important than rifle scope.

I do think most that get a crappy thermal can’t see and always think it’s fuzzy. Then they just give up and have a 1500 dollar paperweight. It’s better to go ahead and get a decent or above thermal. Buy once cry once.

Best way to get into it is find some guys that go alot and go with them. You’ll have a lot more success early on and then know more about how much you want to spend on a thermal.
 
Agree with most.

Most here aren’t going to go all in like you and me and learn how to actually call and hunt coyotes. They just aren’t.
I've been hunting coyotes for decades (in daylight). I didn't ask about how to call them in. I just asked how much money I have to spend to be able to reliably see them well enough to kill them at 150-200 yards.

Two very different questions. It looks like AGM has 4 different rattler V2s around $800, $1000, $1200, and $1500. I'm simply, and only, wondering which one I'd need, to shoot them at 150-200 yards. I realize that most night hunting involves a lot of scanning (with something else, ideally) and a little shooting. So I'm not even asking about that. I'm simply, specifically, and only, asking how much - in that $800 to $1500 range - I have to spend, to be able to see the things well enough to reliably hit them, at night, at 150-200 yards, without trying to guess where to aim at a pixelated blob.
 
I've been hunting coyotes for decades (in daylight). I didn't ask about how to call them in. I just asked how much money I have to spend to be able to reliably see them well enough to kill them at 150-200 yards.

Two very different questions. It looks like AGM has 4 different rattler V2s around $800, $1000, $1200, and $1500. I'm simply, and only, wondering which one I'd need, to shoot them at 150-200 yards. I realize that most night hunting involves a lot of scanning (with something else, ideally) and a little shooting. So I'm not even asking about that. I'm simply, specifically, and only, asking how much - in that $800 to $1500 range - I have to spend, to be able to see the things well enough to reliably hit them, at night, at 150-200 yards, without trying to guess where to aim at a pixelated blob.
Easy there tiger.

If you quoted later in the post you’d see I said it’s better to get as much thermal as you can afford. The 600 level sensors are now second class, so there is no way I would get a 384 sensor, which is now two generations behind.

With only the scope on a 200 yard shot your identification will be poor. You’ll be wondering if your shooting a coyote, a dog, or even a deer
 
I think you'll be fine at those ranges with a 256 resolution. This is a picture of a deer at 110ish this is me holding my phone up to the scope so the picture is actually better looking through it. As a side note I'm currently looking to upgrade. Almost shot the neighbors dog last week...
2e63b8f4d0b1196db817318e8c0a50b9.jpg


Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
 
I think you'll be fine at those ranges with a 256 resolution. This is a picture of a deer at 110ish this is me holding my phone up to the scope so the picture is actually better looking through it. As a side note I'm currently looking to upgrade. Almost shot the neighbors dog last week...
2e63b8f4d0b1196db817318e8c0a50b9.jpg


Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk
Exactly. Imagine that at double the range or more zoom.
 
I have that last version of the Rattler... not impressed, especially on the battery use (it'll burn a set in 15 minutes when it's cold, no lie). It works but I'd gladly let it go at 60% retail if you want it.

There was a guy on here discussing recently that is very knowledgeable and seemed to be a straight shooter. I'd track that conversation down and hit him up.
 
I have that last version of the Rattler... not impressed, especially on the battery use (it'll burn a set in 15 minutes when it's cold, no lie). It works but I'd gladly let it go at 60% retail if you want it.

There was a guy on here discussing recently that is very knowledgeable and seemed to be a straight shooter. I'd track that conversation down and hit him up.
I hunt all winter down to -30f and there's not a single Thermal MFG that has a battery system that can withstand the cold temps (operating temps on most MFG's is -4 to +122F). The only answer is an external anker mounted to handguard.
 
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