It's pole vaulting over mouse turds. Shoot the gun.
Mouse turds ya say, fascinating internal ballistics says I. Sorry, I just really enjoy geekin out on this stuff.It's pole vaulting over mouse turds. Shoot the gun.
All rings don't need lapped. That's it. People just really like to think they can do accurate work in the wood shed and really dislike any mark of any kind on their scopes.One topic I'd like to hear discussed is lapping rings ... had an F Class shooter last week swear to me that "all rings need to be lapped ... even Vortex and Nightforce".
After talking with him a while, he said that he reckons it's not so much whether the rings are accurate - he suggested that variances in the scope tube is what makes lapping necessary.
Left me scratching my head ... but keen to hear @Formidilosus's take.
Yep ... my understanding was that quality modern rings don't need to be lapped either.All rings don't need lapped. That's it. People just really like to think they can do accurate work in the wood shed and really dislike any mark of any kind on their scopes.
@Formidilosus while listening to your show today on barrel break-in one thing I don't recall being fully debunked was fouling. The information I took for gospel on barrel break-in comes from Frank at Bartlein barrels. I recall him staying the reason for is purely to "smooth" the tooling marks created by the reamer, thus reducing fouling potential. I know you addressed this, but I understood this as pertaining to effect on accuracy. What are your thoughts on this reducing fouling?
One topic I'd like to hear discussed is lapping rings ... had an F Class shooter last week swear to me that "all rings need to be lapped ... even Vortex and Nightforce".
After talking with him a while, he said that he reckons it's not so much whether the rings are accurate - he suggested that variances in the scope tube is what makes lapping necessary.
Left me scratching my head ... but keen to hear @Formidilosus's take.
Nah. I haven’t lapped rings since I stopped shooting junk guns with poor receivers.
………once again.Why do I care if a barrel fouls? I don’t clean and a barrel gets pretty fouled from thousands of rounds without cleaning…. And yet the barrels keep shooting excellently.
Similar topic, any recommendations for barrel maintenance/care for coastal Alaska?
I have heard running a patch with oil. This would involve checking your cold bore with oil.
Would it really matter if your muzzle was taped the whole time anyway?
After being in the field and before putting away in the safe, I assume a cleaning and oil would be in order to prevent rust?
What do we think about nitriding stainless and cro-moly barrels in general? Would be nice to not pull factory barrels in order to nitride receivers…Stainless barrels or better yet nitrided. Otherwise, cover the muzzle and keep water out. Oil if necessary, but yes- the first few shots will be off.
I'll race youYes, surprising how steady sitting and using trekking poles (old man mountain canes) are.
Fwiw, I did have the wiser quick sticks when I first shot this way but quickly ditched them as I had way more flexibility in just using the poles with interlaced grip straps.
Randy
You're on. And I heard that Form is giving us a old age handicap.
Randy
Yep. That'll handicap them!13 lashes.
Can anyone tell me the name of the orange ammo carrier in Ryan's gear dump podcast? All I got was the "pocket" or something like that. It had the magnetic closure. thanks!
If you shop around you can find a used tikka 223, that’s what I did. Eurooptic will occasionally have some ctr’s in stock as well.What is the recommendation for a left hand shooter that will run a tikka with Rokstok for hunting but wants an off the shelf .223 trainer? As in no LH tikka .223 available.
An ideal world the trainer would also have a Rokstok at some point.