The Rokslide Stock Traders Thread

[2531usmc]

While @2531usmc is on the right track, may I suggest buying American Gold Eagles or Buffalos.

If you can't hold it, you don't own it and that's never been truer than with paper gold like $GLD.

Good luck,

Eddie

If you buy Gold Eagles or Buffalos, how do you sell them and get a fair value? Do you go to a local coin dealer or pawn shop? If you lived in a large city I would guess it’s pretty easy. But what if you lived in a very rural community?

Isn’t the value in the weight of gold plus how the coin is judged for how crisp the stamping are?

These are the kinds of questions that led me to GLD as opposed to the actual coins. Also looked into buying bullion or gold coins through Fidelity and the transaction costs were pretty steep

 

[HuntHarder]

Thats the negative to actual metal. The costs associated with buying and selling. Typically 10-15% total to buy and sell.

 

[Yellowknife]

You can relatively easily buy/sell physical metals through outfits like Kitco for far less than a 10% cut.

https://online.kitco.com/sell/gold-silver.html

 

[eddielasvegas]

If you buy Gold Eagles or Buffalos, how do you sell them and get a fair value? Do you go to a local coin dealer or pawn shop? If you lived in a large city I would guess it’s pretty easy. But what if you lived in a very rural community?

Isn’t the value in the weight of gold plus how the coin is judged for how crisp the stamping are?

These are the kinds of questions that led me to GLD as opposed to the actual coins. Also looked into buying bullion or gold coins through Fidelity and the transaction costs were pretty steep

I've never sold any so I have no idea.

A local coin shop (LCS) or online (usually a little better price) is what most folks do. AGEs, AGBs and ASEs are all I suggest buying as they are a known quantity and tough to counterfeit and fairly easy to authenticate. Most place will give you spot for the Au coins mentioned and 1% over spot is not uncommon. Again, somewhat influenced by the metals markets.

I have not priced AGEs or AGBs lately but a few years ago the buyer's premium was roughly 5% if you shopped at the right place so if Au spot was $2,000, then you'd pay $2,100. Premiums can be as low as ~4% or as high as 10-ish% for Au so shopping for the best price is a smart. The Au market (availability, price, refining capacity, etc.) also influences premiums.

Ag has always had a much higher premium for ASEs, usually in the 10-30%. This is why I stayed away from Ag a few years ago. There's also the storage factor for Ag as it was roughly at 80:1 then. Now it's better since Ag has been up a lot. Now, it's 60:1 so for every ounce of Au you have to store, a like value of Ag is 60 ounces.

Buying a precious metal for the value of the metal (or coin in this discussion) is known as "stacking." A few scratches or handling marks on a AGE or AGB does not effect the value.

Buying a coin for its collectible value is known as its numismatic value.

I would suggest staying away from the latter and stick to the former. Much more certainly in metal values with stacking given the markets.

Let me know if I missed anything in my reply. I'm not trying to convert you to physical Au but do want to answer any questions I can.


Eddie

 

[HuntHarder]

Good jump for OKLO today. Meta signed a 20 year nuclear agreement.

 

[LFC911]

Good jump for OKLO today. Meta signed a 20 year nuclear agreement.

i bought OKLO at 90 and just checked its up to 113...saweeeet!

 

[HuntHarder]

Expect a wild ride! I have been in SMR's for a couple years. Made lots of money, but huge swings. It's not for the faint of Heart.

 

[2531usmc]

I've never sold any so I have no idea.

A local coin shop (LCS) or online (usually a little better price) is what most folks do. AGEs, AGBs and ASEs are all I suggest buying as they are a known quantity and tough to counterfeit and fairly easy to authenticate. Most place will give you spot for the Au coins mentioned and 1% over spot is not uncommon. Again, somewhat influenced by the metals markets.

I have not priced AGEs or AGBs lately but a few years ago the buyer's premium was roughly 5% if you shopped at the right place so if Au spot was $2,000, then you'd pay $2,100. Premiums can be as low as ~4% or as high as 10-ish% for Au so shopping for the best price is a smart. The Au market (availability, price, refining capacity, etc.) also influences premiums.

Ag has always had a much higher premium for ASEs, usually in the 10-30%. This is why I stayed away from Ag a few years ago. There's also the storage factor for Ag as it was roughly at 80:1 then. Now it's better since Ag has been up a lot. Now, it's 60:1 so for every ounce of Au you have to store, a like value of Ag is 60 ounces.

Buying a precious metal for the value of the metal (or coin in this discussion) is known as "stacking." A few scratches or handling marks on a AGE or AGB does not effect the value.

Buying a coin for its collectible value is known as its numismatic value.

I would suggest staying away from the latter and stick to the former. Much more certainly in metal values with stacking given the markets.

Let me know if I missed anything in my reply. I'm not trying to convert you to physical Au but do want to answer any questions I can.


Eddie

Eddie,

Thanks for the detailed response. It was very informative

Like many on this forum, the concern with fiat currencies is driving a shift into owning assets (equities, property) over cash (bonds, MM funds).

Im starting to feel somewhat top heavy in equities so I was looking to diversify somewhat. I started researching bitcoin and have come to the conclusion that I'm afraid to touch it.

I started looking into gold and you realize it’s the only “real” money if things get bad, but how to obtain it, store it, and sell it?

Your post answered many of those questions and now I need to dig further.

 

[HuntHarder]

Honest question for gold enthusiasts, without going too far off the rails. I own 0 physical gold, with the thought that if things go "really downhill" you will NEVER be able to trade gold for services again in our lifetimes. I have buddies that feel like this could be a possibility, but I think they fail to understand the magnitude of "how bad" it would have to be for this to happen. I see ammunition and reloading components much more valuable in a scenario like this.

 

[LFC911]

When things are crashing up like OKLO, do you turn off your stop loss % or something else? I'm thinking if this thing corrects in a day or two it is going to trigger my 10% stop loss. TIA

 

[CorbLand]

When things are crashing up like OKLO, do you turn off your stop loss % or something else? I'm thinking if this thing corrects in a day or two it is going to trigger my 10% stop loss. TIA

If you are in it for the long haul, pull your stop loss. If you are in it for a quick flip, set it where you will be happy.

If I am shooting for a 10% gain, I set my stop loss there and move it up if it continues to drive up.

I don’t use the percentage stop loss, I set the price I want it to sell at.

 

[HuntHarder]

When things are crashing up like OKLO, do you turn off your stop loss % or something else? I'm thinking if this thing corrects in a day or two it is going to trigger my 10% stop loss. TIA

Similar to what @CorbLand stated, if I'm in it for the long haul, dont set any and don't look at it every day. If you are trying to make quick money and not lose your profits, set a stop loss. Whether you go % or price is up to you. If you go price, I'd set it slightly above where you are actually happy at. As I said before, it's a wild ride, expect ups and downs of greater than 10% over a couple days or hell, even a day.

 

[LFC911]

I am not trying to flip stocks as much as i've learned you have to own them when the news breaks and they gap up. It is more protection for if a bubble pops and have a market crash, not to lose more than 10% if we have a big correction and i'm not watching things.

 

[HuntHarder]

Trailing 15- 20% stop loss sounds like it might fit your needs, since you are up decently anyway.

 

[LFC911]

Trailing 15- 20% stop loss sounds like it might fit your needs, since you are up decently anyway.

i changed it to 15, thanks for the advice guys!

 

[TX_Diver]

If you are in it for the long haul, pull your stop loss. If you are in it for a quick flip, set it where you will be happy.

If I am shooting for a 10% gain, I set my stop loss there and move it up if it continues to drive up.

I don’t use the percentage stop loss, I set the price I want it to sell at.

Yes… but if your opinion or plans change just don’t forget about it like I did and accidentally sold OKLO last month at $75… .

Was only a partial. But those shares would all be up nicely again now.

 

[CorbLand]

Yes… but if your opinion or plans change just don’t forget about it like I did and accidentally sold OKLO last month at $75… .

Was only a partial. But those shares would all be up nicely again now.

Been there.

I sold HCMC for hundreds in profit. If I had held for a few more days it would have been thousands.

 

[Paradox]

An alternative to GLD is an ETF GOLY.
They are invested in physical gold AND gold miners/producers as well so you get the whole enchilada.
As a bonus they pay a monthly dividend (last payout was 19%) that you won’t get with gold

 

[LFC911]

An alternative to GLD is an ETF GOLY.
They are invested in physical gold AND gold miners/producers as well so you get the whole enchilada.
As a bonus they pay a monthly dividend (last payout was 19%) that you won’t get with gold

Not sure if gains include the dividend.

 

[MountainTracker]

Honest question for gold enthusiasts, without going too far off the rails. I own 0 physical gold, with the thought that if things go "really downhill" you will NEVER be able to trade gold for services again in our lifetimes. I have buddies that feel like this could be a possibility, but I think they fail to understand the magnitude of "how bad" it would have to be for this to happen. I see ammunition and reloading components much more valuable in a scenario like this.

Tools, books and skills. Trading a tool in that type of scenario would be more valuable imo.

Also, how do you know what is being handed over is actually gold or silver?


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