The right suppressor the first time

I could probably be completely happy with just my TBAC ultra 7, might not be the best at anything but it's pretty good at everything. its basic and durable which I like, I also like the basic 1.5"x7" silencers.
 
Yeah, probably not a one size fits all perfectly, but there are some designs that have more limitations. If it were me, I would avoid OTB and the potential headaches that come with them for a first, universal application can. I would stick to proven, .30cal, 5/8×24 Dt. The Tbac UL7, US reaper, Nomad Ti, Airlock zg30 or similar would be my choice.
 
One last thing... I have not personally encountered a suppressor that "hinders accuracy." I shoot better with every single rifle, from the smallest to the largest, when I use a suppressor. As long as you check that it is still tight on your barrel, you shouldn't encounter accuracy problems.

It is heavily dependent on barrel length/stiffness, but I typically see a shift of 0.5" to 2" at 100 yards when I switch from bare muzzle to light suppressor (under 8 ounces), to heavy suppressor (12-16 ounces). I've posted about this elsewhere recently if you want to look into it more.

If you get something wildly erratic, it usually means an improperly installed suppressor, which is more likely if you are using a cheap adapter or your smith did a bad job threading the rifle. I had this happen with a .22 LR where the adapter I got was just off center enough that I got very slight baffle strikes. Changing the adapter fixed that issue.
One last thing... I have not personally encountered a suppressor that "hinders accuracy." I shoot better with every single rifle, from the smallest to the largest, when I use a suppressor. As long as you check that it is still tight on your barrel, you shouldn't encounter accuracy problems.

It is heavily dependent on barrel length/stiffness, but I typically see a shift of 0.5" to 2" at 100 yards when I switch from bare muzzle to light suppressor (under 8 ounces), to heavy suppressor (12-16 ounces). I've posted about this elsewhere recently if you want to look into it more.

If you get something wildly erratic, it usually means an improperly installed suppressor, which is more likely if you are using a cheap adapter or your smith did a bad job threading the rifle. I had this happen with a .22 LR where the adapter I got was just off center enough that I got very slight baffle strikes. Changing the adapter fixed that issue.
I’m about to buy my first suppressor and it will go on a rifle that the barrel was threaded at the factory so I don’t expect any problems there.
I do have other rifles that I’ve had for years so I will have to have rifle barrels threaded as I get other suppressors. Is threading a rifle barrel for a suppressor something a competent machinist in a large machine shop should be able to do with no problem?
We hear and read stories about people that claim to be gunsmith’s causing problems and I wonder how difficult this is.
Thanks
 
I’m about to buy my first suppressor and it will go on a rifle that the barrel was threaded at the factory so I don’t expect any problems there.
I do have other rifles that I’ve had for years so I will have to have rifle barrels threaded as I get other suppressors. Is threading a rifle barrel for a suppressor something a competent machinist in a large machine shop should be able to do with no problem?
We hear and read stories about people that claim to be gunsmith’s causing problems and I wonder how difficult this is.
Thanks

In theory, any competent machinist can do it. In practice, I will never have it done by anyone unless I have complete confidence in their ability to do it right, in conformity with my wishes.
 
Can you say who you recommend for this type of work?

If I have a lite contour barrel, I’ll have it sent to Kampfeld Customs and have it cut 5/8x24. Karl Feldkamp does excellent work. His work is particularly nice because he adds a false shoulder that most smiths won’t do. This was a 9.3x62 that another smith insisted had to be 9/16x24, which would require an adapter.
a838360a4e65eb90d426931bbbf1d792.jpg

3a21cb067c80a6e3cf09b26f2825e78d.jpg


I had this .270 done by a local smith. I wanted it 20” and 5/8x24. He took three months and gave it back to me 21” and 1/2x28. He said cutting it to 20” would have required removing the barrel from the action. He did good work, but I had to roksett an adapter onto it. Karl would have done it the way I wanted it, faster than the local guy, and for less money.
c8e36abfde333fff8fbeb6e2d21ab2d2.jpg


For a heavier barrel contour, I have sent them off to Silencer Central and had good results. Their door-to-door service is pretty speedy and they do good work. They did a very nice job on my heavy-barreled .25-06.
 
If I have a lite contour barrel, I’ll have it sent to Kampfeld Customs and have it cut 5/8x24. Karl Feldkamp does excellent work. His work is particularly nice because he adds a false shoulder that most smiths won’t do. This was a 9.3x62 that another smith insisted had to be 9/16x24, which would require an adapter.
a838360a4e65eb90d426931bbbf1d792.jpg

3a21cb067c80a6e3cf09b26f2825e78d.jpg


I had this .270 done by a local smith. I wanted it 20” and 5/8x24. He took three months and gave it back to me 21” and 1/2x28. He said cutting it to 20” would have required removing the barrel from the action. He did good work, but I had to roksett an adapter onto it. Karl would have done it the way I wanted it, faster than the local guy, and for less money.
c8e36abfde333fff8fbeb6e2d21ab2d2.jpg


For a heavier barrel contour, I have sent them off to Silencer Central and had good results. Their door-to-door service is pretty speedy and they do good work. They did a very nice job on my heavy-barreled .25-06.
Thanks for the details!
 
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