The Perfect Tikka Stock for $100

[darrenk75b]

Nicely done. I'm a bit jealous of the closeout proof steel barrel, where did you get it from? I've got a benchmark blank ordered to go to kampfeld for a 18" tikka 6 creedmoor as well and those closeout prices are damn near as cheap as the blank..

I got the barrel from Stockys. Looks like it was the last one they had, and it doesn't appear Proof is making them any more. I think it was around $325, so less than the price of a cut rifled blank.

 

[wind gypsy]

I got the barrel from Stockys. Looks like it was the last one they had, and it doesn't appear Proof is making them any more. I think it was around $325, so less than the price of a cut rifled blank.

dang, nice snag! I know proof discontinued the tikka lite contour steel prefits.

 

[Antares]

Thanks @Macintosh

Am also curious how one goes about opening up the barrel channel @Antares . I just bought a used stock and will need to do this for my barreled action to fit.

I use 100 grit sandpaper. I used to wrap it around a dowel, but lately I've been using the barrel as a guide. I cover the barrel in strips of masking tape to protect it and and then run strips of sandpaper between the barrel and stock while slowly tightening the action screws. If I'm opening the channel a lot and I can't get the screws to catch, I'll wrap the stock and actions with surgical tubing until the screws catch. It's a PITA, but it works. I'm sure some professionals can chime in with better/faster techniques.

 

[SouthPaw]

I got the barrel from Stockys. Looks like it was the last one they had, and it doesn't appear Proof is making them any more. I think it was around $325, so less than the price of a cut rifled blank.

I literally had that exact barrel in my cart for a couple days pondering. Hesitated. You won.

 

[Randfal]

Nice Mod!

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

I picked up an OEM LH T3 stock from a RS member for $65 and just swapped the factory butt pad for a Limbsaver. It came with the vert. grip and beavertail forend already installed, and now all I need is the Victor. For a little over $100 when said and done, it should be light and versatile. A Boyd's "at one" with adjustable LOP and comb runs around $400 depending on what you want, and the only other LA aftermarket stocks are nearly the same or double. As a result, I'm hoping mods to the OEM get the job done. FIngers crossed!

 

[BLJ]

…….And if the vertical grip isn’t vertical enough.
I took the standard grip and cut and heated until it was where I wanted. Added some JB Weld 2 part epoxy and then I had something that I liked.
I’m going to add a cap to the bottom with a piece of Kydex.

 

[Andouille]

...Nathan Foster sells an epoxy that fills voids in the fore end to stiffen it. Nathan has a nice write up on it on his web site.

https://www.ballisticstudies.com/sh...atchGrade+Synthetic+Stock+Stabilizer+Kit.html

Where did you source your epoxy? I see that Nathan doesn't ship outside of NZ, and I'd like to fill the voids in my X-bolt plastic stock fore-end which is pretty flimsy.

 

[Balderdash]

IIRC, the first epoxy I used I got from Nathan before NZ got crazy/crazier with firearm restrictions.

I did a Tikka stock with table top/coat and seal epoxy not too long ago that turned out very well. Used a soldering iron to melt purchase points all through the voids. Still a very slight flex, but much better than OEM. I also expanded the free floating to make sure nothing kisses. Embedding an arrow shaft in there might've helped, too, but they flex as well so not sure how much they really add over just the epoxy? Accuracy was superb before, but I was looking for more stability for the awkward field shooting positions I seem to find myself in.

I've owned a bunch of different Tikka stocks through the years, And I'm kind of migrating to the newer style Tikka OEM plastic stocks. I put the straighter pistol grip on and, if need be, I run a Beartooth comb raiser with the proper thickness foam pad for eye-scope alignment. They're pretty light, and I shoot them as well as anything. I usually give them a coat of textured paint as I like the extra grip when carrying.

I like the KRG Bravo and other chassis styles a lot for range use, but I'm not the biggest fan of AICS mags for a rifles that get carried in hand a lot. I shoot wrong handed, so my aftermarket choices are more limited.

 

[Buzby]

Mathews cheek riser, installed to give a negative drop at heel. I made the pad offset out of 1/8” stainless. The stocked worked great for me. I still swapped it out for a KRG bravo, and couldn’t be happier.

 

[Antares]

View attachment 528161
Mathews cheek riser, installed to give a negative drop at heel. I made the pad offset out of 1/8” stainless. The stocked worked great for me. I still swapped it out for a KRG bravo, and couldn’t be happier.

That pad offset looks real clean. Nice work!

 

[Miflatlander91]

View attachment 528161
Mathews cheek riser, installed to give a negative drop at heel. I made the pad offset out of 1/8” stainless. The stocked worked great for me. I still swapped it out for a KRG bravo, and couldn’t be happier.

That loos really good!

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

 

[thinhorn_AK]

For those that want to use a sling, a 2.5" Seekins SRS or Outdoorsmans Hatch rail lines up perfectly with the bracing in the stock. Dremel out a flat spot and epoxy a t-nut.
View attachment 516775

I installed my rail just like that but the rail I used has a flush cup hole, o just put a flush cup adapter on a sling for that rifle.

 

[Dobermann]

@Antares - thanks for the heads up on the Victor cheek riser; one inbound to play with. I'm migrating from the factory stock to a Hi-Tec Composites (NZ similar to Stockys) so will see what it offers that platform. Great stuff showing us all the other details too!

 

[WhoGarrDen]

After years of messing around with custom stocks, I've come to the realizations that the factory Tikka stock can do everything I need with some simple modifications. I'm late to the party, some members here have been preaching this all along. Sometimes you just need to figure things out for yourself.

I thought I needed a custom stock because I wanted:
- Long (14.5") LOP
- Vertical grip
- High comb
- Two front studs for adding a bipod rail
- Lightweight

Below is a modified factory Tikka stock that has all those features. Modifications cost approx $100 and finished weight is 34 oz. For comparison, my McMillan Game Warden 2.0 w/ EDGE fill cost $600+ and weighs 32 oz.

Components:
- Kick-eez LOP spacer ($10)
- Tikka vertical grip ($25)
- Victor Titan Universal Cheek Rest ($35)
- Atlas 2.05" rail (BT34; $25) and mounting hardware (BT1517; $5)

View attachment 498657
View attachment 498658
View attachment 498659

Good-looking finish - really like the profile if that Victor over some of the other $30-$60 options. Got one on the way!

 

[apkleinschmidt]

For those of you wrapping a socket in sand paper, are you then putting it in a drill to sand? And how are you attaching the sand paper to the socket?

 

[BLJ]

For those of you wrapping a socket in sand paper, are you then putting it in a drill to sand? And how are you attaching the sand paper to the socket?

No drill for me. Just hand sanded back and forth in the barrel channel.
I cut the sandpaper long enough that it captures itself (overlaps) around the socket.

 

[apkleinschmidt]

10/4. Are we talking 30-minutes of hand sanding or hours? Thanks!

 

[WhoGarrDen]

Good-looking finish - really like the profile if that Victor over some of the other $30-$60 options. Got one on the way!

Update to receiving the Victor stock - I found that the added width pushed my cheek too far off center. No matter how hhigh or low I stacked it, every time I closed my eyes, relaxed and reopened them, I was way off center and losing at least half of the sight picture. The rest and spacer pads were perfect for help8ng me dial in a height though.

I ended up cutting some dense foam based on the height measurements from the Victor testing, but cut it down to match stock width and have it wrapped with electrical tape. It's not as comfortable as the Victor was, but I can rest my cheek on it and maintain a consistent sight picture in all positions.

Now I'm going to be extra cautious when looking at stock upgrades and avoid those adding width to the comb.

 

[BLJ]

I’m guessing 5-10 minutes of sanding to get the clearance I have.
I had a little time with a Dremel taking out the factory contact points.
Maybe 30 minutes total per stock on the high end.