The next step?

[String&stick]

Really good advice above.

You said you've had the rifle for 13 years, any idea on how many rounds you have down the tube? Has the accuracy been consistent or has it gotten worse?

First 10 years I only shot about 30 rounds a year (check zero, shoot deer and a couple coyotes), the last 3 years I started working up and last year shot 650+/- rounds. I would say total it probably has under 2300 rounds through it as I've only started bumping up my shooting the last few years. And a good possibility it is closer to 2000 rounds.

 

[wind gypsy]

There are a lot of variables to barrel life but it is entirely possible you will never get great consistency with a 7 RM that has 2k+ rounds down the tube. Competitive shooters wouldn't expect much more than 1k rounds with competitive accuracy but that is probably with more strings of fire shot a higher accuracy/consistency requirement. Factory hammer forged barrels should last longer than the aftermarket button or cut rifled barrels used by competitive shooters too.

 

[kevin11mee]

So I'm currently shooting a Winchester model 70 SS synthetic stock 7mm rem mag topped with a Cabela's Alaskan guide 4.5x14x42 scope. It's been my all around gun for the last 13 years and I've truly enjoyed shooting it. It will shoot 2 inch groups at 150 yds and 3-4 inch groups at 300 yards. Beyond 300 it seems to start to walk around a bit and really lose consistency, which hasn't concerned me much as I'm "zeroed" at 200 and don't normally shoot beyond 300.

Well this year a few things changed, first my nice tight shooting quarters property got sold and I acquired permission on 3000 acres of canyon country with large flats and deep draws. Second I watched both a 150 inch class whitetail and a 170inch class mule deer hang out in the middle of a large flat where the closest point to shoot from was about 430yds out if you were to approach without being seen or smelled. I just wasnt comfortable reaching out that far and passed on both.
Thiss has me wanting to push my effective range out to the 500 or 550 mark to eliminate this safe zone and allow me to cover a large field of view from one vantage without disturbing to much of the property.

So my thoughts, that I would love your advice on, in the order my brain thinks I should approach things (this is where I need the expert advice)

1. Ammo - I have been shooting almost exclusively 139 grain hornady American whitetail ammunition. The reason for this is 2 fold. First when I first got the gun it grouped the best out of the 4 brands I ran through the gun, and secondly I had a friend working at hornady for years and so I have a stockpile of this ammo on hand.

Do I try some hand loading or purchase some more premium factory loads? I have a friend with all the equipment and he even has 7mm dies. Handloading seems like a logical first step (once I can find components again that is).

2. My scope. While the Alaskan guide scope has served me well I know there are other options out there that would most likely serve me better.

3. Trigger - the trigger is a factory set up and fairly heavy, a possible upgrade area.

4. Other areas? Things I'm not thinking of? I've practiced my form and try to shoot a fair amount in the summer and early fall every year so I feel like that side of things is on par. I've shot some friends rifles and shot 3-4 inch groups at 500 yards so I know I'm capable.

Lastly is this expecting to much from this gun? I feel like it should be capable of making those kind of shots, but maybe in its current (unmodified) condition it just isn't capable of reaching out to that kind of range and I need to look at different options???

Feel free to share your advice, criticisms (constructive or not), and tips!

(As a side not I know that hand loading and even trying other ammo might not be an option this year based in current supply and demand! This might be a project for next year, or possibly making the changes I can now while the others wait)

1. I'd say hand loading can get you some increased accuracy and you will be able to shoot a number of great bullets.
2. I'd personally get a scope you can dial at that distance, while you can hold over with the reticle, a turret you can dial will be much more precise. Even if you're off just a bit at 500 yards while holding over, it translates into a big miss. Zeiss V4 and Vortex LHT get my vote here.
3. Install a Trigger Tech and take it down to what is a light trigger press for you and dry fire and live fire with your thumb in a neutral position.
4. Pillar bed your action.

 

[hereinaz]

2000 rounds is a lot on a 7 mag. I would invest no more bullets down that tube for long range. A new barrel would likely make the most difference at this point.

 

[Antares]

If you don't already reload, I wouldn't get into it just to reach out to 500 yards. If your gun likes the American Whitetail, try the ELDMs.

 

[MeatMissile]

First, before you go dicking with your trigger, what generation of M70 do you have? If you have the original design, it takes very little to get it to be quite good. Just takes a competent gunsmith. The virtues of the original open trigger design are worth keeping from a hunting standpoint. It’s nearly bomb proof. If you have the new “MOA” trigger, scrape the glue off the adjustment screws and see if you can get it where you want it. I’ve never had to replace an M70 trigger.

Second, identify which stock you have. If you have anything but a win-lite or extreme weather, the stock will likely be injection molded. The pressed checkered injection molded stocks that came on the classics sucked. The goofy “ultimate shadow” stocks are actually not horrible, but look goofy. I personally prefer laid-up fiberglass stocks.

Third, have the stock properly bedded. Also, depending on the generation of M70, they can be finicky when it comes to action screw torque. If you have the original 2-piece bottom metal design, there will be three screws. The middle screw should not be much more than finger tight, with the front and rear screws torqued properly.

Fourth, good mounts and rings that get a decent amount of separation.

Fifth, make sure the crown is cut concentric to the bore. The newer ones have recessed crowns and are generally good. Some of the later “classics” weren’t great.

Sixth, If you do the basic stuff above and your scope holds zero and you start to be able to hit out to your intended range, keep it. Holding zero is the most important thing to me. If you decide to buy a new scope for extra features like fancy reticles and dials, keep the old one just in case (if it holds zero).

Seventh, the reason I have ammo down this far is you don’t know how the things up above will change your gun. Your rifle may start to shoot better overall, making ammo a moot point.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

When I built my western hunting rifle I started with a Ruger American because of the one-piece bolt (similar to Weatherby) adjustable accu-trigger, and reputation for accuracy. However, I immediately dumped the synthetic stock and picked out a Boyd’s custom model. They are built to your specs including your specific length of pull, type/thickness of recoil pad, type/finish of wood, type/config of stock, etc…. You can also have aluminum pillars installed in the stock to complement the epoxy/glass bedding kit that comes with it.

I chose the prairie hunter due to the Monte Carlo style and raised cheek piece. After bedding the action and mounting the scope the rifle fits me like a glove. In addition, the barrel is 100% free floated from the action to the end of th stock. I can fit a playing card around the barrel all the way to the action.

I’m not an expert marksman by any means, but without a led sled, this gun shoots 1” or less at 100 and 2” or less at 200 with factory ammo.

you may be surprised what a good trigger and stock could do for your rifle.

 

[MikeDeltaFoxtrot]

I'd start with better glass, but you may need a new barrel as well. Was your M70 made in CT? Given that vintage it may have been. Does that make it a push feed? I personally would not re-barrel a push feed M70. If it is a pre-64 design with the Mauser claw extractor, then it is worth re-barreling. They went back to that design after FN started making them. I have an M70 Super Grade from 2018 that is just excellent.