Temp D Loop, Shoot, then do a perm nock point??

[wildernessmaster]

Several source I have been reading reference shooting a bow with a temp d loop on it before determining the nocking point and tying in your peep and d loop permanently. Is this a good idea or not... If it is a good idea what do you do about a peep, or do you shoot it without a peep just up close so you aren't flinging arrows out into never never land?

 

[Zac]

I would say you can always move your loop or simply replace it if you need to. If you just got new strings and cables then you will need a loop to set timing. You can shoot it in depending on what kind of string you have. I sometimes do up to 150 shots before I look at timing or tying in a peep. Once your settled figure out your peep rotation. You can either twist the string until your peep is perfect, or offset your loop. If you twist your string you are going to have to time after that step. At this point you are ready for paper. If you are getting a vertical tear and your arrow is through the center of the Berger. Then moving your loop is not a bad option.

 

[wildernessmaster]

I would say you can always move your loop or simply replace it if you need to. If you just got new strings and cables then you will need a loop to set timing. You can shoot it in depending on what kind of string you have. I sometimes do up to 150 shots before I look at timing or tying in a peep. Once your settled figure out your peep rotation. You can either twist the string until your peep is perfect, or offset your loop. If you twist your string you are going to have to time after that step. At this point you are ready for paper. If you are getting a vertical tear and your arrow is through the center of the Berger. Then moving your loop is not a bad option.

Ok... I feel like I am missing something here... How do you shoot a bow with no peep 150x? How do you put a nock in if the timing is off (since it will change the nock point)?

For a new bow, new strings I thought the setup tune was:
1. set draw length
2. Validate draw length (which I can do on my draw board without a d loop)
3. check cam cycle and time
4. make sure bolts are fully tight and check tiller
5. set up nock point at center or berger hole
6. tie nock points and d loop or just d loop
7. put on rest
8 set rest so it sits barely off nocked arrow at 90 degrees
9 put on sight
10 put in peep, draw back and check peep location, adjust up/down as necessary
11. tie peep
12. align peep with string twists
13. align d loop and peep
... now start tuning

And what you are saying is 150 shots in I am going to have to untie d loops and peep serving, recheck timing and reset d loops and peep?

What a freaking lot of work to get a bow set up...

 

[Dave3c]

Just went through this before the season. Do everything except the peep. Shoot from around 6 yards. Think paper tuning distance. This isn’t for you as much for it is for the strings to settle/initial stretch. The number of times you will need to shoot will be determined by the quality of strings that you have. Call the string manufacturer and ask what their recommendation is. In the end you may have to retie your nock but that isn’t a big deal. I didn’t tie my under/over knots until this was done. Get your cycles in on the bow and then go through the setup front to back. Some things you are just checking.


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[wapitibob]

Don’t tie the peep till you’re getting your sight marks, just tie a cpl serving knots above and below to hold it but still let you slide it up/down the string.
A short 10” arrow with a nock stuck in it makes rest setup a bit easier.
Don’t get too twisted up on draw length you’ll want to tweak it as you shoot some arrows thru the bow. Same for cam timing. 1 twist of the string or .030” movement of cam stops can make a big difference.

 

[corylee4870]

Ok... I feel like I am missing something here... How do you shoot a bow with no peep 150x? How do you put a nock in if the timing is off (since it will change the nock point)?

For a new bow, new strings I thought the setup tune was:
1. set draw length
2. Validate draw length (which I can do on my draw board without a d loop)
3. check cam cycle and time
4. make sure bolts are fully tight and check tiller
5. set up nock point at center or berger hole
6. tie nock points and d loop or just d loop
7. put on rest
8 set rest so it sits barely off nocked arrow at 90 degrees
9 put on sight
10 put in peep, draw back and check peep location, adjust up/down as necessary
11. tie peep
12. align peep with string twists
13. align d loop and peep
... now start tuning

And what you are saying is 150 shots in I am going to have to untie d loops and peep serving, recheck timing and reset d loops and peep?

What a freaking lot of work to get a bow set up...

A new string and cables are going to stretch. After 150 shots they should be stretched. You can set it up before that, but know that you should double check everything around that 150 shot mark. You will likely need to put cams back in sync and probably straighten your peep sight. Then check your tune, however you initially did that

As for the temporary Dloop, if you set your arrow at 90 degrees to the string and running through the Berger hole you probably won’t have to move it. It will probably be close enough that you can just move the rest. But, if you’re going to be working on bows I would get used to tying Dloops.


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[Zac]

All good advice above. I would just summarize everything by saying that you don't have to have anything set up in order to get your strings stretched out. So you can literally throw your strings, and cables on, tie a loop and shoot your bow a bunch of times. Then when you think your shot count is high enough go ahead and set your bow up. I usually take a giant pile of arrows with me and just shoot a bale at about 6 feet. I check my arrow count on a piece of paper after I pull al the arrows. An off the shelf bow will be pretty much set after 400 shots. A premium string is gonna be around 100 give or take. The Gas Ghost is supposed to only be around 3 shots.

 

[MattB]

Anyone have issued with the nocks making flats on the serving while shooting the cabling to get the creep out of it and let the servings settle in the cams? Once this happens, the string wants to align based on those flats. I haven't but a friend who ran a shop for 15+ years had run into incidences of it.

 

[wapitibob]

You should re serve when the flats start to appear, they change the nock tension on the string. Bow hunters usually don’t bother but it can make a difference.

 

[Zac]

Anyone have issued with the knocks making flats on the serving while shooting the cabling to get the creep out of it and let the servings settle in the cams. Once this happens, the string wants to align based on those flats. I haven't but a friend who ran a shop for 15+ years had run into incidences of it.

You need to run Beiter nocks. Easton nocks were squaring off my serving in almost no time. This is an easier solution than having to reserve your brand new string. Also a far superior nock.

 

[wildernessmaster]

You should re serve when the flats start to appear, they change the nock tension on the string. Bow hunters usually don’t bother but it can make a difference.

What are "the flats"?

 

[Zac]

You'll get corners on your serving where the sides of your nocks make contact with the serving. It will look slick and shiny.