Teach Me

[justin26.2]

Hey all!

Have a question, instead of telling me where to hunt....I'm asking how to hunt.

How do you approach hunting mule deer in more arid terrain?
Elevation is 6,500 to 8,500 feet, lots of canyons, primarily covered with sagebrush and scrub oak slopes with pinyon and juniper woodlands. Water sources are intermittent streams, mainly from runoff, maybe a water hole in the lower elevations at the canyon floor. As far as remoteness, there are many unimproved roads and trails throughout but hunting pressure isn't too bad.

The time of year will be end of October/early November.

Thank you!

 

[HiMtnHntr]

Find water in the most remote patch of ground you can find would be a start without knowing the particulars of the area. What looks like good deer country might not hold any while you’d be surprised to find deer in other areas… lots of other variables, too, like migration and adjacent private land. I’ve been in areas like you describe and there’s almost no deer until later on… older deer are going to be more secretive with more pressure. Lots of times they rarely move in daylight until well into November . Look for bigger tracks around water. Tracks don’t lie. Little buck might leave a decent size track but a big buck will have a bigger track and will imprint deeper than smaller, lighter deer…. Think about where pressure comes from and try to predict where to be sitting when the pressure starts. Deer typically retreat to the same areas when the seasons start. Since you’ll be edging on November find doe groups and bucks will be nearby. The big ones will still be wary in showing themselves. Just some ideas.

 

[justin26.2]

Thank you, this is exactly the information I was hoping to hear! Good advice and a good place to start, very much appreciated!

 

[Rich M]

Glass at first and last light.
Or by finding tracks and beds.

 

[Mtnmilsurp]

Get where you can see a lot of ground over 3-5 miles and just keep scanning with binoculars. It always surprises me to look at the same lifeless landscape 5 or 6 times or more over the course of a couple of hours and then all of a sudden there are a couple of deer. Didn’t see them coming, can’t imagine how they got there without me noticing them move in but all of a sudden there they are. 10 minutes later I look back and they’re gone but I now know where to focus my search


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[justin26.2]

Thanks everyone! Sounds like glassing is the way to go. I will be using 10X50 binos and will have a spotting scope 27-60X85
Will this set up suffice, or should I be looking at something else?

 

[tkhuntsman]

Get a good seat pad and get comfortable with your binos preferably on a tripod and glass all day. A tarp helps immensely to keep the rain and sun off. Hunt those buggers with your eyes not your feet.

 

[justin26.2]

How much time would you glass a location before moving on? This maybe a "it depends" question.

 

[tkhuntsman]

All day

 

[DougG]

One of my favorite stories about glassing has to do with two of my friends who set out on their own to hunt the same mountainous area. When the sun came up they were within 30 yards of each other!
The point being that studying the map to pick a vantage point to glass from can be almost as important as the glassing itself.

 

[Rich M]

A lot of deer hunting is in the basics.

I start by driving the roads, see what you see. Critters, tracks, other guys doing the same.

Then i start walking and glassing. You get 2 -2.5 hrs each side of the sun to see active deer.

Then i walk and look for deer sign, people sign, etc. a lot of public land has a lot of roads and folks use em.

If yer up on a mtn thats diff and will need to be glued to your binoculars.

 

[RockAndSage]

Hey all!

Have a question, instead of telling me where to hunt....I'm asking how to hunt.

How do you approach hunting mule deer in more arid terrain?
Elevation is 6,500 to 8,500 feet, lots of canyons, primarily covered with sagebrush and scrub oak slopes with pinyon and juniper woodlands. Water sources are intermittent streams, mainly from runoff, maybe a water hole in the lower elevations at the canyon floor. As far as remoteness, there are many unimproved roads and trails throughout but hunting pressure isn't too bad.

The time of year will be end of October/early November.

Thank you!

OP, think of it as a process, knocking out things in order. Before sharing my process, it's important to note that Mule Deer can go for days at a time without watering, even in extremely dry desert - and it's no problem for them have their bedding locations multiple miles from the nearest source of water. But they need to eat daily to prepare for winter, and generally prefer to bed reasonably close to their food - often doing a circuit of browsing during the night, ending up back at their beds at dawn.

My process is to start by e-scouting via OnX and Google Earth as soon as I get a tag - and I'm scouting first and foremost for likely food sources. In the desert, especially at that time of year (oct/nov/dec), it usually means bitterbrush. But if you have forested areas - hunt the edges of treelines and timber cuts, and look for burns about 2-4 years old. Forest floor gets poor sunlight, so edible brush also grows poorly there. This is why logging activity where you have cuts, treelines in general, and burn areas attract mule deer - it gets sunlight and the food grows. Hunt the edges of these places hard to find game trails - they bed in the brush but feed more in the open, coming in and out of the edges. But you'll need to identify what muleys eat in your area, and look for patches of that.

My process typically includes a total of about 3-4 weeks of scouting pre-season in total spread across the entire summer, beginning as soon as I get that tag. My e-scouting actually begins a bit when I'm applying for tags, but as soon as I get a tag I'm e-scouting hard and within a couple of days I'm out in the field.

Specifically, I'm hitting those food sources really, really hard, cutting sign - looking for big buck tracks. Big, blocky, splayed hooves, especially with one dragging in some of the steps. That's a big, old, heavy buck. Then I track that guy, ideally, right back to his bedding area. I'm not concerned in any way with bumping him - I'm tracking hard and fast, trying to find his bedding area. Because I'm not looking for him - just his feeding and bedding areas. Often they'll be close to each other, especially if they're in a great spot for his security (ability to see forever, smell well, tucked away with his back to a rock barrier of some kind, etc.)

Once I find both of these places, I'll dial in on several good glassing spots that give me coverage over these spots - high places that I can access discretely and have backup locations for if the wind is shifting.
That's all I'm really trying to do on this first scouting trip - cut sign to and from his food and bed, find my glassing hides for these promising spots, and scouting my routes to those glassing spots once I find them.
Second scouting trip, at least for that spot, will be at least 3 days later and up to a week later - I've bumped the hell out of him being in his bedroom, but he'll be back, because he chose that place because of its general security and access to food, so it's his primo territory. This second trip is where I'm trying to first get eyes on him. If you're out in May/June, muley coats are a really cool reddish color that is far easier to glass up than when they start to turn hard-horn in August-ish, which is when their coats also go grey-ghost on you. Also, when their coats are red and their antlers in velvet, they're sensitive to pain and the antlers are more easily damaged by brush, so you'll often find bucks bachelored up together, out in the relative open. But once they go hard-horn, the biggest ones especially will be getting much deeper into cover by themselves, in part because it doesn't hurt or damage their antlers at that point.

In much of the Great Basin region and the desert west you have fairly limited migration, so if you find bucks when they're in the red in May and June, they'll still be in that same general vicinity later in the year. When they do move, it's typically a bit further uphill to escape some of the heat, or to follow the melting snow-line as food emerges in the higher altitudes. Patterning the bucks consistently across the summer eases you into them getting harder to spot as their coats change, and gives you an idea where each buck lives. By doing this, you're far more likely to know if they've truly "disappeared" to a new location, or if they're almost certainly still in the place they've always been, but are just a little harder to spot or a little cagier than earlier in the month.

Between that first trip and opening day, I try to find one primary buck and my backup buck, over the course of about 5-8 scouting trips. It may be one or two days at a time in the beginning, but I try to use the process to build up physical and mental stamina as well, and may very well have my last scouting trip be 4 days or more, depending on how dialed in I am on the zone and the bucks I want to hunt.

There's a lot of good info out there on glassing, and I've shared very little of it here - what I have shared will make your glassing far, far more efficient. Run a search for articles here on Rokslide on glassing, and find some YouTube videos on it for more detail - Cliff Grey has some good stuff on glassing, IIRC. Oh, and buy Robby Denning's books. If you really want to study and learn, his books are packed with exceptional info.

 

[kevinsstelly]

Hey all!

Have a question, instead of telling me where to hunt....I'm asking how to hunt.

How do you approach hunting mule deer in more arid terrain?
Elevation is 6,500 to 8,500 feet, lots of canyons, primarily covered with sagebrush and scrub oak slopes with pinyon and juniper woodlands. Water sources are intermittent streams, mainly from runoff, maybe a water hole in the lower elevations at the canyon floor. Here. As far as remoteness, there are many unimproved roads and trails throughout but hunting pressure isn't too bad.

The time of year will be end of October/early November.

Thank you!

I also think good preparation and choosing a good ambush location are the basis for success! And you need a good pair of binoculars!

 

[qmalone64]

Thanks for sharing everyone. Helps alot for those of us new to this.

 

[justin26.2]

I put in and should draw the tag. I will keep yall updated. Thanks again everyone!

 

[Schoolhousegrizz]

How much time would you glass a location before moving on? This maybe a "it depends" question.

If you don't see anything in the morning or at night I would move on.

 

[justin26.2]

Tags are drawn.....lots of roads in the unit. From the people I've talked to, this is a "road hunt".

 

[RockAndSage]

Tags are drawn.....lots of roads in the unit. From the people I've talked to, this is a "road hunt".

Congrats, and good luck.

A few things come to mind with how you describe the unit:

1) Be sure to find pockets off the road that may not be glassable from the road - especially just on the other side of low hills or down in drainages, that may not be obviously places of cover if just cruising along. Road hunters tend to ignore these areas, and the deer don't feel as pressured. More than a few big bucks have been pulled out of places others drive or walk right past, because of these little cubby corners.

2) Bigger, older bucks habituated to a lot of road hunting will stay put more intensely, and are more likely to just reposition themselves a bit deeper into cover when getting pressured, if they move at all. Unless you see a buck bolting right out of the area, assume they're still there if you "lose" them while glassing. Repositioning yourself even ten feet can often give you an entirely different vantage when glassing into the brush, so glass hard.

3) One of the best things about hunting roads, is how well deer sign shows up. You can get surprisingly good at cutting sign from a truck cab, if you're going slow enough, and even moreso by ATV or bike. Look for the big, blocky buck tracks - especially any dragging a toe a bit. Use that sign as a highway, pointing to where they feed, and where they bed down.

 

[Hnthrdr]

Thanks everyone! Sounds like glassing is the way to go. I will be using 10X50 binos and will have a spotting scope 27-60X85
Will this set up suffice, or should I be looking at something else?

Will work fine