Takedown Riser Length

[Wapiti1]

Help me understand the advantages/disadvantages to the different lengths available. Looking at getting back into shooting a recurve, and my old Wing has developed some stress cracks. Time to get a new bow and takedown looks like the best option from a travel and versatility standpoint.

Jeremy

 

[Beendare]

Its all about your Draw Length.....and what limbs you are using.

My DL= 30"
I shoot both a 17" and 19" ILF risers with long ILF limbs, making a 62" and 64" bow respectively.

I am just a little more consistent with a 64" bow....but the same limbs on my 17" risers are a little faster.


Give us a little more about your specs and what you are doing so guys can make suggestions......


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[GreenNDark Timber]

The way you shoot can also determine the length of riser you prefer. If you shoot split finger, you may want a longer riser which gives you a taller sight window. If you shoot 3 under or fixed crawl the arrow will be closer to your eye allowing you to go with a shorter sight window and thus usually a shorter overall riser length.

 

[Wapiti1]

My draw length is 27". I'm looking for an ILF setup or other takedown where I can get two or three limb sets to work up to a 45-50# hunting weight. I haven't shot traditional for about 20 years and would like to get back to it. I'm thinking that I will start with 3 under and point on aiming, then see what system works best for me.

When looking at the different combinations, I see several different riser lengths, and 3 limb lengths. I understand the mix and match to get to a final total length of the bow, but wasn't sure if there were reasons to go with a longer riser or shorter riser. Is one more forgiving, or more stable? What is the speed penalty, if any (not that this will be a high speed setup)?

I don't have a good shop near me to talk with. The two close shops don't have many traditional shooters. So, you get my newb questions.

Jeremy

 

[ozyclint]

mass weight is another consideration. some like the feel of a heavier bow, others a lighter bow. this can also be varied by materials used.

 

[bjfoxhoven]

I started with a 21” “warf” riser a few years ago with some long 40lb limbs. That made a 66” bow. I have a 30.5 draw. That was a sweet shooting bow for me to learn on. I compare it to an old Cadillac compared to a new fast sports car. It has a large brace height of over 9” and super smooth draw because of the limb pocket angles making the limbs work slightly less efficient. I took me a solid year of consistent shooting to “feel” when I was using back tension right and loosing that arrow appropriately. I just went down to a 17” riser making a 62” bow to hunt with next year. I’m using the same limbs so now I have a little more weight at my draw (46lb). What I’m finding with this shorter bow with my draw is I get a fair amount of string pressure shooting three under. I can tell I need to be consistent with that because if I put too much pressure on the strong with my ring finger it does affect my arrow flight slightly.
Take what I’m saying with a grain of salt since I’m pretty new to this. But I‘ve done my fair share of research getting into this too. I think a 62-64” bow would be fine to learn on, I would push you toward the longer though... it just was more comfortable to me. I suggest finding somewhere to shoot a couple different lengths so you know what feels good to you.
Make sure you know what riser length the limbs you get are rated at for poundage.... I think my trad tech limbs are rated on a 17” riser. Other limbs are rated for 21” risers for competition shooting etc. less length that what rated adds some weight. Longer length reduces weight. They are also rated at 28” draw, so the weight is probable 2-3lb less at your draw than what the limbs will say.
I think you made a good choice with the ILF system. Very versatile and you can get a quality bow that you can stuff in you pack for a great price.

 

[Beendare]

27" DL you can shoot maybe a 56" bow....58" for sure. You can always shoot a longer bow which are a little more forgiving as a general rule.

If I were you I would shoot 60" bow. 17" ILF riser with med limbs. That way you can go up or down in length with long or short limbs if you want pretty cheaply.

If you are starting out...you can get a cheap $80 set of light limbs that will feel pretty darn good to you.....so many of those ILF limbs are really good....and sell them for about 80% of initial outlay.


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[Wapiti1]

Thanks for the help. That gives me a starting point.

Jeremy

 

[Wapiti1]

Pulled the trigger on an 17" Optimus riser from JM Archery with carbon foam limbs at 60". I thought it was a good deal with a dozen fletched uncut arrows, tab, quiver, stringer and case for 4 bills. USA made riser, which is nice. Not sure on the origin of the limbs.

Should give me something to work with and it has interchangeable grips which I wanted. I'll probably make a grip that fits my hand at some point.

Down the rabbit hole I go. I feel sorry for the dozen arrows. They don't know how poor a future they have.

Jeremy

 

[bjfoxhoven]

Down the rabbit hole I go. I feel sorry for the dozen arrows. They don't know how poor a future they have.

Jeremy

Good for you! Have some fun with it. Once I got my shot figured out it really became addicting. A was super fun before, but when you start hitting hour mark on a consistent basis it truly becomes addicting. With regard to the arrows, this is probably too late, but if you can get some that have an impact collar on them it really helps extend the length of them from my experience. stick to big bag targets for a while until moving to the 3d targets if optional. I couldn’t shoot at the 3D ones for a while because I lacked confidence, and this is such a form/mental game. I have some expensive arrows and some cheap ones, and to tel you the truth I probably won’t by buying more expensive ones for a very long time. Hard to tell any difference (mainly got them to aid penetration). Good luck! Let us know how if goes.

 

[Wapiti1]

Thanks. Collars are a good suggestion. I'll definitely add those. My backstop is 4X6, so I shouldn't loose too many, but you never know. It'll be fun.

Jeremy

 

[milunchbox]

I have a 17'', 19" and a 25". The 25" is the easiest to shoot very forgiving and doesnt stack at all. I shoot the 17" the most because the grip is the best for me and can make great groups. I would tell you to shoot some bows first and see what you like. I listened to the Trad Lab podcast and thats what got me into the ILF rigs. You can make them as easy or as hard as you want to shoot. Now if you have poor form and dont know whats going on then they all shoot like crap.

 

[Wapiti1]

I've been shooting a bit, and am working entirely on my form. I have a pretty good anchor, and am working on my release. I pluck about every third of forth shot.

So far so good.

Jeremy