T3x prefits from Proof.

so i've built/assembled a few ar-15's and ar-10's. complexity-wise and tool-wise, how easy or hard would it be to remove the factory barrel and throw on a proof barrel?
 
I’ve seen the Carbon Six Tikka prefit with the locking nut. These a shouldered prefits . I didn’t think that Tikka’s tolerances where that tight, so how does it work? I’m sure it does, but just don’t know how.
 
I’ve seen the Carbon Six Tikka prefit with the locking nut. These a shouldered prefits . I didn’t think that Tikka’s tolerances where that tight, so how does it work? I’m sure it does, but just don’t know how.
I’m assuming that the tikkas tolerances are tight enough that you simply torque the barrel on and you’re good to go. Dallas Rifle has been doing shouldered carbon prefits with hardy blanks for a while now.
 
so i've built/assembled a few ar-15's and ar-10's. complexity-wise and tool-wise, how easy or hard would it be to remove the factory barrel and throw on a proof barrel?
Theoretically you should be able to do it with just a barrel vise and action wrench/torque wrench. Check headspace with go/no go gauges and you’re off to the races.
 
Never done it, but from what I’ve read, the Tikka barrels are a bear to remove. There often has to be a relief cut made and/or a very long cheater bar. Can anyone comment on how crazy the factory barrels are torqued?


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I removed a barrel from a T3 and it was a pain to say the least. They use some kind of thread locker and it is tough to break. Had to use heat and really torque down the barrel vise to get it to hold. Really thought I was going to damage the action before it finally broke loose.
 
Never done it, but from what I’ve read, the Tikka barrels are a bear to remove. There often has to be a relief cut made and/or a very long cheater bar. Can anyone comment on how crazy the factory barrels are torqued?


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Exactly... I have a custom action wrench I've made, then I have to heat the action/tennon up to melt the factory loktight, clamp the barrel in a hydraulic press and use a 5 lb hand sledge on a pretty dang hard swing to pop the action loose.

As far as headspace goes, you can do it, the tikkas are pretty consistent with tennon lengths and SAAMI specifications for headspace is up to .006" variance. The tikkas are in that range for sure on tennon length consistently, but I like to headspace +.001-.002" to keep virgin brass loads close to 1X fired loads and prolong brass life.

Mike
 
What happens if you are a factory ammo guy and get a barrel that’s headspace short... that would suck when you can’t close the bolt lol.
 
Yeah I’m wondering same as another poster. Will these work on a tikka T3?
I have a t3 lite in 308


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Never done it, but from what I’ve read, the Tikka barrels are a bear to remove. There often has to be a relief cut made and/or a very long cheater bar. Can anyone comment on how crazy the factory barrels are torqued?


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From what i have seen and been told it is not soo much just the torque but all the dam glue they put on the tenon that makes it a pain.
 
I think they will fit on the normal t3 I just sent them an email to see. I’ll let you know what I hear from them
 
Snowy Mountain said they haven't had any issues removing Tikka barrels. I have them calling Proof to give me an ETA on delivery - I called Proof, and you have to go through a distributor.
 
I saw proof stated on their Instagram that MSRP is $545 for stainless and $940 for carbon with a 6-8 week delivery from right now.

I saw that same comment, and maybe I'm optimistic, but I read that as 6-8 weeks to be fully stocked. Snowy Mountain would be different than Brownell's or Midway imo, and maybe (hopefully) sooner.
 
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